Gears & Axles - slipping 10 bolt?

i occasionally take my car to the 1/4, but im pretty easy on launching it so im not going to go 12 bolt until it breaks..

my problem is, i track mycar

when i come out of a right hander i can feel my lsd slipping.. IE the inside wheel spins alot and the outside wheel does nothing..

when taking a left hander, this doesnt happen.. so when i get out of a turn and get on the gas it bites and goes like hell

at vir this is kinda an issue cause there are alot of right handers on to long straights... in autox this sucks too because im always on the gas coming out of slow turns


if i were to change my fluid and put in some lsd addative, would this help remedy this situation?

or is this my call from god to start saving for a 12 bolt with a better lsd?


1998 ta m6 123k

bump anyone know?

it might help some but at 123,000 miles. the cones in your diff are worn enough that they can't control the biasing coming out of a right hander. It won't get any better either, in time it will get to the point where it will only be spinning one one the straight. Should still grab both going to the left though.

Mine does the same thing. I'm at 91000 miles. I changed the fluid to Royal Purple and used the GM limited slip additive. It didnt change anything. I think I need a new rear anyway, I'm gettin a vibration at about 55-60 which goes away until 85-95. I dont have the money for a 12-bolt though. I'm trying to decide between 3.90s and 4.10s for my ten bolt.

Driveshaft torque reaction tries to lift the right tire
under acceleration.

On a right turn the body rolls left unloading the right
tire even more. On a left turn the body roll fights the
torque reaction making more balanced wheel downforce.

A torque biasing differential like the stocker only splits
2:1 or so, max. If you have half the weight on the
right wheel (torque-lift + body roll) you're done for
friction to the road.

A higher-bias chunk, beefier sway bars and perhaps
a little lower (to cut body roll) are your prime options.
Might consider a "drag bag" to even out the weight
bias in cornering, if that's legal and you care.

higher bias chunk??

ok well thats good news anyways because i just ordered SFCs and spoohn sway bars

i might change it anways just because i dont know how long its been since it was done..

on that note anyone know how important it is to change your tranny fluid in a M6? sticker on it says dextron mercron III atf fluid... is that really what goes in there? im sure a search could find this.. im just typing my thoughts

Torque biasing differentials (Zexel, I guess there's a
similar scheme in the True-Trac line?) all have a limit
to how much proportion of the torque can be pushed
over to the sticking wheel.

On an open diff this is 0, and all you get is spinning-
wheel acceleration.

On the stocker the bias ratio (limit) is about 2:1. So
spinning wheel is spinning wheel, but the stuck one
is given 2X that, so you accelerate 3X vs an open.

T2-R I think is something like 3.5, 4:1? So presuming
you have the grip on tire #2, you could get 5X the go.
In fact however, 4X spinning tire torque is usually
enough to break free the second as well. Not always
the case at 2:1 which is why you see people with
stock Torsens complaining about "one wheel peel" and
thinking maybe it's blown / slipping. It is, kinda, but
that's inherent to some degree. Wear and slippery
fluid can make it worse though, because the Torsen
works by binding some metal and the harder it is to
bind, the less bias. Or something.

The bias ratio can make a very large difference in the
marginal-traction acceleration you get. Power cornering
in particular is much improved with my T2-R over the
original, the outside tire gets all it can handle now.
And more. :)

Friction type diffs are different in how they split the
torque and how/when they give up.

when i turn right i get the right rear spin and the left hooks. so youre not the only one. my auburn is still in near perfect condition too.

your Auburn posi is probably shot. once the clutches go in it its over. do not put synthetic in your 1998 diff. it will only speed up the deterioration of the clutches. only use conventional gear oil in Auburn units. 1999+ Zexel Torsen units can use synthetic, not 1998 or older.

Mine does the same thing. I'm at 91000 miles. I changed the fluid to Royal Purple and used the GM limited slip additive. It didnt change anything. I think I need a new rear anyway, I'm gettin a vibration at about 55-60 which goes away until 85-95. I dont have the money for a 12-bolt though. I'm trying to decide between 3.90s and 4.10s for my ten bolt.
if your rear is going out, why would you put lower gears in it? thats adding insult to injury. its just going to make it grenade quicker. if i were you and didnt have money to put into a 12 bolt, which i dont, i would baby that rear untill you do. which i am. :jest:

your Auburn posi is probably shot. once the clutches go in it its over. do not put synthetic in your 1998 diff. it will only speed up the deterioration of the clutches. only use conventional gear oil in Auburn units. 1999+ Zexel Torsen units can use synthetic, not 1998 or older.

it lays 2 strips of rubber and spins both on jackstands.

been using napa gear oil 75W80 and 80W90 with the LSD additive.

mosi doent make any noise when turning or anything.

Your LSD is worn out and didn't do a real good job of transferring torque when it was new. I would switch to a trutrac. They're fairly cheap and will give you the torque bias your wanting and will never wear out. Putting synthetic in or the additive will make the clutches in the LSD slip worse.

Your LSD is worn out and didn't do a real good job of transferring torque when it was new. I would switch to a trutrac. They're fairly cheap and will give you the torque bias your wanting and will never wear out. Putting synthetic in or the additive will make the clutches in the LSD slip worse.


you need the GM additive with auburn.

yes you do need the additive. the synthetic gear oil is a no-no in auburn units.

yes you do, it is synthetic gear oil that is a no-no

wait wait, whats synthetic? i use the dino oil with additive.

how much am i lookin @ to get a tru-trac? any links to info on these?

i might try changin the fluid, who knows... it may help some.. ill just hope the sway bars and SFCs help enough to make it tolerable

wait wait, whats synthetic? i use the dino oil with additive.
yes thats fine, im talking about royal purple, redline and what not gear oil. thoes are synthetic oils. the dino and the addaitive is what you should be using i your auburn unit.