Stereo & Electronics - New 2 Ohm Speaker

So dont know if these will be any good but kenwood has new 6.5 components that are 2 ohm...just saw them part numbers are kfc-x1710 and kfc-x1710p

If the system is rated at 4-8 ohm and you put a 2 ohm speaker on it, you're likely to burn the amp in the unit. Especially when you crank it up.

If the system is rated at 4-8 ohm and you put a 2 ohm speaker on it, you're likely to burn the amp in the unit. Especially when you crank it up.
All factory Monsoon system have 2-ohm speakers in the doors. Good find!

Good find. I'm lookin to get some components and I think these might be the ones I want. Would there be a problem with them being a 220 watt max? I thought the monsoon amp was 250 watt or even 500.

Good find. I'm lookin to get some components and I think these might be the ones I want. Would there be a problem with them being a 220 watt max? I thought the monsoon amp was 250 watt or even 500.
Well, no...those ratings for the Monsoon are ILS (If Lightning Strikes) and have no bearing on reality. Besides, even if they did, it would be total output into 8 channels so there's no way that a single channel could overwhelm those speakers.

Nice find. I use to run Kenwood in my other Z28 and I liked it. I may have to give these a listen.

Well, no...those ratings for the Monsoon are ILS (If Lightning Strikes) and have no bearing on reality. Besides, even if they did, it would be total output into 8 channels so there's no way that a single channel could overwhelm those speakers.

Ok. I thought that would be total output but i wasn't sure. Do you think that these would be a good speaker to replace stock with?

I'd say no, but they'll beat stock.

I'd say no, but they'll beat stock.

why do you say no? if i keep the stock monsoon and just replace speakers wouldnt a 2 ohm be better than a 4? not trying to come off as a jerk. just curious.

why do you say no? if i keep the stock monsoon and just replace speakers wouldnt a 2 ohm be better than a 4? not trying to come off as a jerk. just curious.

yes, they will be better than a 4 ohm if that's all you are doing.
On the other hand, if you intend to lose the Monsoon (and that's rated at MAX output, not RMS, and has no bearing on reality) and add a real amp at some point, might take a look at Alpine Type R series, nice stuff and very efficient, but still can take 100 rms (true RMS power) and sound excellent (assuming proper crossovers, clean signal, yadayada)

WhiteBird00 -- all tweeters are of 4 ohm impedances...correct? ...so are there any problems in using 2 ohm component sets in the tweeter locations??

yes, they will be better than a 4 ohm if that's all you are doing.
On the other hand, if you intend to lose the Monsoon (and that's rated at MAX output, not RMS, and has no bearing on reality) and add a real amp at some point, might take a look at Alpine Type R series, nice stuff and very efficient, but still can take 100 rms (true RMS power) and sound excellent (assuming proper crossovers, clean signal, yadayada)

If i ever do decide to do the whole system i'll change it but right now i'm just looking for some better speakers.

why do you say no?

Because it's Kenwood.

Because it's Kenwood.

I was just at a Kenwood seminar for work yesterday, and im really impressed with the product and how much they stepped it up in the last few years cause i know it never use to be what it is now...Their new shallow subs are amazing they would look awesome in the corner of any f-body :headbang:

WhiteBird00 -- all tweeters are of 4 ohm impedances...correct? ...so are there any problems in using 2 ohm component sets in the tweeter locations??
Yes, all of the tweeters are 4-ohm. In Firebirds they are wired to the head unit, in Camaros they are wired through the amp. Normally I wouldn't connect speakers of lower impedance due to the risk of overcurrent in the amp (or amp section of the HU) but I think you could probably get away with it for the tweeters because they run very little power compared to the other components.

Actually, for Camaros the KFC-X1710 (without the P) is a 2-ohm coax that should work nicely in the doors. For Firebirds I would try the KFC-X1710P components including the tweeters but listen to them carefully for signs of distortion or for the sound to be too bright because of the tweeters being proportionally louder (due to reduced impedance). If it's a problem, leave the factory tweeters in place - they seldom blow.

Saw these at the local audio store and they looked ok.But they were like 200.00.I think not. :eyes:

Saw these at the local audio store and they looked ok.But they were like 200.00.I think not. :eyes:

Why not? That seems to be the going rate for just about any brand name component se.

Kenwood isn't worth that.

Kenwood isn't worth that.

Find me another 2 Ohm setup that will fit in the door....options are very limited.

You're way too set on finding a 2 ohm speaker.

I think this is an ok find from to present another option, but if they really are in the $200 range (still too new to froogle) the product really doesn't make sense to pair up with a factory system. That is just too much money when you are going to be held back by the factory h/u and amp.

It's a catch 22. The 2ohm specification is only a big deal (and not really that big of one) if you stick with the stock hardware, but a $200 pair of speakers makes no sense while using that stock hardware. The Alpine and Infinity options can be had for well under $80 online, and if you are really sticking to stock, they just make for a better fit.

Now if you have long term plans to upgrade the h/u and amp... then there are better $200 speaker sets all over the place. Kenwood has some fair enough mass market stuff, but their speakers aren't very good, especially in the higher price areas.

Having 4 ohm speakers with stock Monsoon system is not a problem either. You just can't throw any old 4 ohm speaker in there. And you don't need to spend alot either to get better than stock sound out of your system.

You can't be obsessed with getting 2 ohm replacements, just because the stockers are 2 ohms. There is more to finding a good replacement speaker than just matching up the nominal impedance.

Are these Kenwoods good fits for stock replacements? I couldn't say as Kenwood doesn't give any specs aside from power handling, freq response, and nominal impedance.

I certainly agree that $200 a set is a bit expensive for use with the stock system.

I replaced all of the stock speakers in my SS with 4 ohm replacements for less than $300 total. I am very happy with them.

Hitech,
What speakers did you use? did you amp them? I am putting some CDT 6.5 midbass in the sails and some CDT CL-6EX in the doors. I will be running them off my Eclipe hu until I get a 5ch amp. The sail are just going to be wired sraight to see how they sound and the doors I will probably be running new wires to the doors and powering them of the hu. I have been told that since they are a way better speaker than stock(if i use the monsoon amp),I shouldn't really notice any sound difference eventhough they are 4ohm.

Hitech,
What speakers did you use? did you amp them? I am putting some CDT 6.5 midbass in the sails and some CDT CL-6EX in the doors. I will be running them off my Eclipe hu until I get a 5ch amp. The sail are just going to be wired sraight to see how they sound and the doors I will probably be running new wires to the doors and powering them of the hu. I have been told that since they are a way better speaker than stock(if i use the monsoon amp),I shouldn't really notice any sound difference eventhough they are 4ohm.You would notice less of a difference running those speakers off the factory amp than you will by running them directly from the head unit. I have yet to find any good reason to eliminate the factory amp without installing an aftermarket amp.

You would notice less of a difference running those speakers off the factory amp than you will by running them directly from the head unit. I have yet to find any good reason to eliminate the factory amp without installing an aftermarket amp.

Hmmm. I have been told otherwise. So,wiring them up to the hu would be a waste of time?Let me ask you this then. The sail panel subs I believe only have two wires, but the door speakers have a total of four. How would I wire the CDT 6.5 for the doors if they only have hookups for two wires? Looks like I wouldn't be using all the wires from the factory amp. I was previously considering the Infinity 62.7i,but I have heard that they sound too bright,but would be a direct replacement.I also considered the Alpine SPS-170A and doing the mod. I do plan on getting a sub down the road and was wanting to wait until I did that before I got a 5ch amp to push all the speakers. The speakers don't have anything wrong with them,I just wanted to get something that sounded a little better. I could just get a sub and a mono amp and be done with it. :) :jest: and leave the factory speakers.

I have yet to find any good reason to eliminate the factory amp without installing an aftermarket amp.
If you have 4ohm speakers and do not want to modify them, or somehow can't, I don't see a reason not to run wires from an aftermarket HU - you might get more power also if you plan on using just the woofer wires.. ?

62.7i's probably aren't a good replacement.. yea they're 2 ohms which helps, but I would want to use the crossover supplied*....which would mean only using the woofer wires. That's the only option unless you have an aftermarket amp...you wouldn't be able to pull wires from the HU either because of their 2 ohm impedance.

*still don't understand how so many have just wired them up without and crossovers, and use the statement "don't need the crossovers because the Monsoon amp takes care of that" -or something to that effect....

Hmmm. I have been told otherwise. So,wiring them up to the hu would be a waste of time?Let me ask you this then. The sail panel subs I believe only have two wires, but the door speakers have a total of four. How would I wire the CDT 6.5 for the doors if they only have hookups for two wires? Looks like I wouldn't be using all the wires from the factory amp. I was previously considering the Infinity 62.7i,but I have heard that they sound too bright,but would be a direct replacement.I also considered the Alpine SPS-170A and doing the mod. I do plan on getting a sub down the road and was wanting to wait until I did that before I got a 5ch amp to push all the speakers. The speakers don't have anything wrong with them,I just wanted to get something that sounded a little better. I could just get a sub and a mono amp and be done with it. :) :jest: and leave the factory speakers.
HU wiring for the 62.7i's is not possible because of the 2 ohm impedance...I just realized I may have said you can use the crossover from the HU - I wasn't thinking about impedance then, sorry.

If you have 2 terminals, you once again......can modify your speaker, use just the woofer wires, or if of 4 ohm impedance, use your Eclipse HU to power them.

Infinity speakers are brighter from everything I have read, and the fact that the tweeters in the 62.7i's are of 2 ohm impedance doesn't help either........

A friend of mine has a HIFONICS ZEUS ZXI8006 that he's willing to sell me for 180.00,it's brand new and still in the box.I think that I'm just going to get rid of the Monsoon all together and wire up the speakers in the sail panels and doors to it and that will take care of my debate.He's out of town on business for a week,so I think I will hook them to the hu and see how they sound.If they sound ok,I leave it.How do you think the sail panel speakers will sound running off the factory amp?The power ratings are pretty good for the amp.Then I can run the CDT in my doors and power the CDT midbass in the sail panels without any problems.I just didn't want to have to run all new wire,but I guess I'll have to.

Hmmm. I have been told otherwise. So,wiring them up to the hu would be a waste of time?Let me ask you this then. The sail panel subs I believe only have two wires, but the door speakers have a total of four. How would I wire the CDT 6.5 for the doors if they only have hookups for two wires? Looks like I wouldn't be using all the wires from the factory amp. I was previously considering the Infinity 62.7i,but I have heard that they sound too bright,but would be a direct replacement.I also considered the Alpine SPS-170A and doing the mod. I do plan on getting a sub down the road and was wanting to wait until I did that before I got a 5ch amp to push all the speakers. The speakers don't have anything wrong with them,I just wanted to get something that sounded a little better. I could just get a sub and a mono amp and be done with it. :) :jest: and leave the factory speakers.
Wiring the aftermarket speakers directly to the head unit doesn't gain you anything in terms of sound quality (the Monsoon amp is actually quite good) and you lose the power that the amp provides - not to mention the hassle of rewiring and then rewiring again when you install an aftermarket amp later. Use either pair of wires in the doors when connecting coax speakers and leave the other pair disconnected. Just make sure you use the same pair in each door.

If the factory speakers are in good shape, they will last longer now that you've replaced the head unit (eliminating the primary source of distortion) so you could keep them and just add a sub for now. Then you can get all the pieces together (amp and speakers) to do a further upgrade at a later time. It depends on your budget and what you want to accomplish. I'm a firm believer in doing incremental upgrades on a budget. You might find you like the sound from a minor upgrade more than you expected. And even if you don't, you haven't lost anything for trying.

Wiring the aftermarket speakers directly to the head unit doesn't gain you anything in terms of sound quality (the Monsoon amp is actually quite good) and you lose the power that the amp provides - not to mention the hassle of rewiring and then rewiring again when you install an aftermarket amp later. Use either pair of wires in the doors when connecting coax speakers and leave the other pair disconnected. Just make sure you use the same pair in each door.

If the factory speakers are in good shape, they will last longer now that you've replaced the head unit (eliminating the primary source of distortion) so you could keep them and just add a sub for now. Then you can get all the pieces together (amp and speakers) to do a further upgrade at a later time. It depends on your budget and what you want to accomplish. I'm a firm believer in doing incremental upgrades on a budget. You might find you like the sound from a minor upgrade more than you expected. And even if you don't, you haven't lost anything for trying.

Yeah.I believe in doing things in steps also.I already have the CDT speakers for the sail panels and the doors on order,so I can't cancel them now. Will the coaxials work correctly with just using one set of wires?

Yeah.I believe in doing things in steps also.I already have the CDT speakers for the sail panels and the doors on order,so I can't cancel them now. Will the coaxials work correctly with just using one set of wires?
YES as he said and as I mentioned, that is what I would do because I wouldn't want to modify nicer speakers. As mentioned though, use the same pair on each side....try each, maybe one sounds better for whatever reason - I don't know if they get the same amounts of power also....the woofer wires would probably have more, if anything...

YES as he said and as I mentioned, that is what I would do because I wouldn't want to modify nicer speakers. As mentioned though, use the same pair on each side....try each, maybe one sounds better for whatever reason - I don't know if they get the same amounts of power also....the woofer wires would probably have more, if anything...

So basically,any speaker would work with the way you mentioned? I can borrow a friends of mine 6.5 2-ways and hook them up to see how they would sound.Will the speaker be able to play the highs and mids with whatever wires I use?

So basically,any speaker would work with the way you mentioned? I can borrow a friends of mine 6.5 2-ways and hook them up to see how they would sound.Will the speaker be able to play the highs and mids with whatever wires I use?Yes, any quality speaker will work. Of course, different brands and models will sound different and the efficiency of the speaker will make a difference because of using 4-ohm replacements. So use your friend's speakers to test but don't expect them to sound the same as your new ones will (unless they're the same kind).

The speaker should play full range sound with either pair of wires. However, as fredmr39 said, be sure to try both pairs because we've had various people say they like the sound better using one pair or the other.

Thanks guys,I appreciate it. :) I hear good things about CDT,so I think I'll be surprised with the sound once I get them installed,if not,I'm going to amp them anyways. The friend I was referring to has Memphis Audio HK65 that I'm going to use.Are they any good?

i need new sail panel speakers ive got a 2000 trans am with the monsoon system and i am hearing mixed things on what speakers to get i was thinking about kickers but what would you put in there i just want it to sound as good as it does now if not better thanks
Russell

i need new sail panel speakers ive got a 2000 trans am with the monsoon system and i am hearing mixed things on what speakers to get i was thinking about kickers but what would you put in there i just want it to sound as good as it does now if not better thanks
Russell
:hijack:


eu700s, IMO though...

Go for a 10"-12" and forget 6.5-7" subs, IMO.

Hey guys,
After much thought,I believe that I'm just going to replace the front speakers with some Infinity 62.7i (direct replacement,correct?) and get a 10" stealth box with either an ID or Infinity sub.Pair that sub with a good mono amp and I think that I would be happy,what ya think?

Find me another 2 Ohm setup that will fit in the door....options are very limited.

Image Dynamics CXS62.......

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1173

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/tech_page.php?name=CXS62&type=midrange&id=chameleon