Stereo & Electronics - Amplifier Bypass...help Please

Hey Guys,

I know this has been asked 1000 times, but every time I didn't listen!!! I have a 98 TA WS6 with a stock sound system (NOT MONSOON). There is an amplifier in the right side back fender. I want to bypass it so that I can replace my HU and connect everything from the front. Basically I want to cancel the amplifier.

Thanks in advance,

The amp that you have receives in "speaker voltage" so a repacement H/U will work well with the stock amp. Unless you are going to run another amp, you could just run any h/u with the stock amp.
I know that doesn't answer your question, but it's just some info.

Hey Guys,

I know this has been asked 1000 times, but every time I didn't listen!!! I have a 98 TA WS6 with a stock sound system (NOT MONSOON). There is an amplifier in the right side back fender. I want to bypass it so that I can replace my HU and connect everything from the front. Basically I want to cancel the amplifier.

Thanks in advance,First of all, if it has an amp, it IS a Monsoon system - it just might not have the label on the head unit. There were no amplified audio systems 98-02 other than Monsoon.

Second, replacing the head unit does not mean you should bypass the amp. Your aftermarket head unit will work fine with the Monsoon amp and speakers. In fact, unless you plan to replace the speakers as well, you shouldn't bypass the amp for three reasons - your head unit probably isn't 2-ohm stable so it won't work well with the factory door speakers or sail panel subs, your head unit won't support the eight channel output that the amp does, and the amp provides the low pass filtering for the sail panel subs. Besides, the Monsoon amp is pretty decent - it's the head units (and the speakers to some extent) that aren't good.

^^^^^^^^^^^^
I notice that you seem to be the best authority on electronics in here. I would assume you do something in the field for a living? I about to post my own thread soon, any input would be great.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7040381#post7040381

I used to do installations and troubleshooting of all kinds of electronics (stereos, alarms, handicapped equipment, even accessories like refrigerators) for a living but now I'm more of a busy amateur. I like to help out friends with their cars and motorcycles on weekends.

I'll be happy to help in any way I can.

Thanks for everything, the fact of the matter is that I want to install a fully customized sound system. By being able to bypass the Monsioon amplifier (which is nothing to call home about) I would be able to use some of the stock wiring for my new install. I saw a thread once about jumpers on the main connector on the amp. If it is too complicated, I will run new wiring all over the car....

Thanks for everything, the fact of the matter is that I want to install a fully customized sound system. By being able to bypass the Monsioon amplifier (which is nothing to call home about) I would be able to use some of the stock wiring for my new install. I saw a thread once about jumpers on the main connector on the amp. If it is too complicated, I will run new wiring all over the car....Well, unless your custom system is going to run the speakers directly from the head unit (no external amp) or with an amp connected to the HU's speaker output, then using the factory wiring is not really helpful. You'll get better sound quality (and volume) from using the pre-amp output of your new head unit through RCA cables to an amp. So, if you're upgrading all at once you probably should run your own wiring.

On the other hand, if you're doing the upgrade a little at a time, then I suggest you leave the amp for last. Replace the head unit first. At the same time or later you can replace the factory speakers. Finally, when you're ready to add your own amp, you can run your own wires. You can add a sub and amp for it at any time.

In either case, re-using the factory wiring by bypassing the amp doesn't offer any advantages.

I dunno. Some of us lazy people would rather reuse mediocre factory wiring than running new wires along the floor and thru doors etc.
I did just what he is talking about on mine, but I did it with a multimeter and long leads (I tried wire colors from some other internet schematics, but they didn't seem to work out for me).
The harness at the amp has wires going to each speaker, so I found and labeled each end measuring resistance (most multimeters have a beeper for continuity that works well at this). I also traced the head unit wires to the amp. I then jumpered at the amp connector so I ended up with a run from HU to each door. I had a fear that there might be a crossover in line between the amp and speakers, but I had no problem getting full signal to the new speakers in the doors.
I never planned on reinstalling the factory system, so I think cut and spliced at the amp connector. If you want to do some more research, you might find an opposite sex connector and create a loop for the jumpers. I did this on my wife's Avalanche and a mazda connector fit nicely. Go figure. I didn't find this, Google found someone else who did.
Hope this helps.

Whitebird00 is right. In my phase II, I did run RCAs and power for the new amp on the rear deck. I did my install in a couple of stages and didn't have to run speaker wires back toward the front in the end.
I ended up with HU driving the rear speakers and a 2/3/4 channel amp driving the two front speakers and a ten inch Sub. I did use the amp to door wiring even after the amp install and have no complaints. Plenty of volume(>135dB) and very good sound quality without out solid gold platinum reinforced signal cables ;)