Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - Carbed 350 OE roller blocks

I'm new to v8s and would like to know what chevy 350's came OE roller from the factory with a carb?

I know 87 and up are OE roller but what vehicals were carbed still?

I'm also guessing I could get a FI roller motor and put on a intake and carb, is this correct?

I know these are probably noob questions but I am and I will learn.

thanks

No production vehicle came from GM with a roller block and a carb. You can absolutely put a intake/carb on a motor that was originally fuel injected.

Ok thanks,

Now to convert from FI to carb.

is that just a intake manifold and carb swap or is there more to it.

if theres more to it i'll search it out. thanks

Yes sir, it is the intake that is the difference up to 98 SBC(exc LT1).

Some TPI heads accept old bolt pattern, the 87-95 take a center bolt angled intake(the center bolts are angled).

The 96-98 factory vortec only accept a 8 bolt intale.


Good luck with whatever you decide to do, just remember that they make carb intakes for LSx now too.

I think I might just end up getting a hyd flat tappet older block that is ready to bolt in to my 84 rx7.

With already having the intake carb and everything else to get running that much quicker without having to buy those parts right away.

I'm only looking for 350-380whp and am hoping to get away with stock internals for now.

My main consern is using a cam that will get me there and not have to worry about my power brakes?

So my plan is to find a older chevy 350 with a stong bottom end then fit a new cam and heads, intake and carb, exhaust to get my where I want.

I'll keep researching.

thanks

Man, my buddy just installed a 355 in his 91 RS, the damn cam wore the lobes out with not even 500 miles on her! We even used the good oil and a correct break in, it sucks due to trying to get him to a third gen meet the 15th. Just get a roller block, it is so nice, i have 238/242 .050 duration with 565/540 lift on a 110 LSA. My brakes are fine but i think being a 5 speed might be helping a bit.

The new heads you buy will fit on the newer blcok so you can use your intake, it is worth it, unless you wanna go with a retro fit roller kit, you will be looking into a 700$ spend for all the equipment.

I think I will get the newer block, it makes more sence.

Thanks

The 1 piece rear seal is better and the newer blocks are easier to find in good shape.

The 1 piece rear seal is better and the newer blocks are easier to find in good shape.

Plus in the later years of the Gen 1 the manufacturing quilty was much better.

keep in mind that even though '87 + blocks were 'roller blocks' the bosses were all their buy they aren't always tapped for the spider trays and cam retainer plate. The castings were all the same but they dind't all come with roller cams. However because all of the bosses are their, its very easy to drill and tap them to fit a roller cam in their.

keep in mind that even though '87 + blocks were 'roller blocks' the bosses were all their buy they aren't always tapped for the spider trays and cam retainer plate. The castings were all the same but they dind't all come with roller cams. However because all of the bosses are their, its very easy to drill and tap them to fit a roller cam in their.

Seriously? I have had so many of theese and every one had them tapped. Even the HD 4 bolt main out of the 3/4 tons. I know the i1 piece 86 didnt have jack.

So are you guys saying that even though they are 87+ roller blocks they are not all roller cams?

But they are ready to have the roller cam installed and not retrofitted, making it cheaper to put in a roller cam and lifters?

thanks

i bought an 87 caprice with a 5.7 it had a roller cam and a computer controlled carb on it,61k miles on it.....
some blocks came with the 3 stands to hold the retainer,some were not drilled and tapped and some were.

So far every one I have seen that was non roller had all the holes drilled for them, but some say not all had the holes drilled.

Seriously? I have had so many of theese and every one had them tapped. Even the HD 4 bolt main out of the 3/4 tons. I know the i1 piece 86 didnt have jack.

yup, i had one once (cant remember what it was out of), had all the provisions but nothing was drilled/tapped.

Wow, i bet that is rare to find with all the ones i have seen.

So far every one I have seen that was non roller had all the holes drilled for them, but some say not all had the holes drilled.


Is this for retrofitting roller lifters into a non roller block. and if the block doesn't have them drilled can it still use a roller lifter?

thanks

So far every one I have seen that was non roller had all the holes drilled for them, but some say not all had the holes drilled.


Is this for retrofitting roller lifters into a non roller block. and if the block doesn't have them drilled can it still use a roller lifter?

thanks

Yep, all you need to do is drill and tap the three bosses running down the center of the lifter valley. Then all you need is GM part # 12371042 to complete the job. http://www.sdparts.com/catalogsdparts.aspx

I like OE roller due to being cheaper and not running a cam button.

Man, my buddy just installed a 355 in his 91 RS, the damn cam wore the lobes out with not even 500 miles on her! We even used the good oil and a correct break in, it sucks due to trying to get him to a third gen meet the 15th. Just get a roller block, it is so nice, i have 238/242 .050 duration with 565/540 lift on a 110 LSA. My brakes are fine but i think being a 5 speed might be helping a bit.

The new heads you buy will fit on the newer blcok so you can use your intake, it is worth it, unless you wanna go with a retro fit roller kit, you will be looking into a 700$ spend for all the equipment.

man dont scare me like that :( I got solid flat can I get away from cam failure? I think not

It happens, just got to break it in right and do as the manufacturer sais.