Stereo & Electronics - how does this setup sound?

Pioneer DEH-P5900iB H/U http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hdHLHtAlijN/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=130DEHP590

Infinity Reference 6012i in the doors

Infinity Reference 6022i in the sail panels and

Infinity Reference 5022i in the trunk

hopefully it will be good, because its in already...

problem was the front speakers were blown about a year and a half ago, and the 6012's were what replaced them... but then all the speakers blew, and the 12 disc stopped working. So the 12 disc was exchanged for the H/U and the 6022's and 5022's were what replaced the stock speakers. Everything was rewired, so nothing factory is in play anymore

If it sounds good to YOU, that's all that matters.. really.

hell, the monsoon sounds good to me... i was more wondering if on paper the setup would mesh well..

personally i would have skipped on trunk speakers but all and all should be way better then stock

i really liked my infinity's that i had in the trunk, until my sub woofer rattled them to pieces. they were really loud and very clear. they actually overplayed my 6.5's in the door, and they were over 6 feet away from me. i would imagine it should sound pretty good.

i still need to figure out the H/U bc i cant seem to get some bass out of the speakers. its more highs than mids/lows.

That's Infinity for you. Also, how are you powering the speakers?

If you plan on powering the Infinity speakers off the factory amp, your better off keeping your factory speakers.
I had JBLs in the doors, hatch, and re-wired the sail speakers to play full range, connected to the factory amp, and an alpine HU, and the JBLs faded out quick, so i invested into an alpine full range amp, i also read the stickies to fugure out what color went to what speaker, so i knew which wires to cut, in the end they became MUCH louder, and had a cleaner sound. I set my filter on the HU at 80hz so my speakers wouldnt play down pasted that, and had two 12" subs take the bass. The subs filter was at 120hz.

Goodluck, hope that helps.

i do not believe the factory amp is still being used. i will have to check on that when i get home. it still gets loud, but not much bass

Sub LP @ 120Hz is WAY too high. 100Hz is MAXIMUM, but 80-90 is better unless your front speakers can't play that low.

Sub LP @ 120Hz is WAY too high. 100Hz is MAXIMUM, but 80-90 is better unless your front speakers can't play that low.

Thanks for your opinion...:confused:
120hz sounds great when i have the gain set at a minimum and set high around 50hz. I have an external power crossover to set gains at different frequencies, sorry i for get to say that.
No 120hz is not to high if its set up right.

No 120hz is not to high if its set up right.

Unless you have subs IN your speakers (like in home audio, or if you had say kick panels with smallish subs), then 120Hz is too high. Period. You can call it my opinion but you're not going to find many reputable people running their subs with a 120Hz LP.

No i do not nave subs in my speakers. I have never heard of that for car audio.
If its too high then why can some JBL subs that are 15" hit 1000hz?
And why can some mono amps hit that high also?
What would be the point of that?
I have the sub set at 120hz because it sounds fine to me, and thats what matters.

i do not believe the factory amp is still being used. i will have to check on that when i get home. it still gets loud, but not much bass
Well what did you mean by "Everything was rewired, so nothing factory is in play anymore" ??

well, they said they rewired everything. Took out the stock H/U and speakers and rewired it all.

Ive gotten it to sound pretty good..i just cant figure out how to set the damn clock.

Who knows what they did then...hopefully you figure it out at some point. Sorry I was unaware that you took it in.

Not familiar with that exact model, but if its like my 880, set the clock with the unit off (as in, tuner/cd off)

If you're too lazy to bust out your owner's manual, here are instructions from it found on Pioneer's web site:

unit should be off

1. Use your MULTI-CONTROL to select clock. Push or push&hold the button until a menu appears. Then scroll with the MULTI-CONTROL to the clock screen.

2. Push MULTI-CONTROL left or right to select the segment of the clock display you wish to set.

- Pushing MULTI-CONTROL left or right will select one segment of the clock display:
Hour---Minute

- After you select segments of the clock display the segment selected will blink.

i did read the manual...but i still dont understand it.lol. and i dont feel too bad because reviews about the unit said its kinda hard to navigate but once you get used to it, its an awesome unit. when i push the multi-control button, an option for the clock doesnt come up..

Yes it does. I have the Premier DEH-P880PRS, and I compared the user manuals. They are identical for setting the clock.

The unit has to be OFF or in DEMO MODE or whatever....NOT in TUNER or CD mode.

Once off, hit the MULTI-CONTROL button. Then scroll though the options by turning the MULTI-CONTROL button counter-clockwise or clockwise until you see the clock.

There aren't as many dedicated buttons which makes it more simple to "guess", but this setup shouldn't take you long to learn.

Would you be willing to replace your factory amp with something that has more power and is much more cleaner sounding?

i would but i want it to be hidden like the factory one

fred... how do i turn it off?lol

Okay.
Send me the ohms of each speaker, and what their RMS watts are, and i will write something up for you that i did and it will work great!

Press & hold the source button to turn the unit off.

What car is this stereo going into because i need to know so i know what colored wires you have for your amp, i am doing a write up. Camaro, Firebird, coupe, conv?

What car is this stereo going into because i need to know so i know what colored wires you have for your amp, i am doing a write up. Camaro, Firebird, coupe, conv?

I think it's safe to assume it's for his '97 SS...... not sure why tou need wire colors though...

I think it's safe to assume it's for his '97 SS...... not sure why tou need wire colors though...

Because if he replaces the factory amp he will be needing to figure out which color wire goes to what speaker.

External amp:
Alpine Alpine MRP-F450.

Your Front speakers are 4 ohms
Sail speakers are 2 ohms
Hatch speakers are 2 ohms

Connect the RIGHT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Connect the LEFT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Look at the sticky because it will tell you what wires go to where.

Just a very bad idea IMHO... You'll lack power for the sails, and they wont be LPF from the amp...and if you do, the hatch wont get the higher freqs......

Plus, using high level inputs is never a good idea... RCAs off of an aftermarket deck is a much better option. If no aftermarket deck, then Monsoon amp will suffice. It may be a little low on the power side, but nothing wrong with it other than that.

So much more could be added to what I said, but to keep it simple - replacing the factory Monsoon amp with an aftermarket amp the way you suggested is not a good idea.

Plus, using high level inputs is never a good idea... RCAs off of an aftermarket deck is a much better option. If no aftermarket deck, then Monsoon amp will suffice. It may be a little low on the power side, but nothing wrong with it other than that.


Thats what i ment sorry that i didnt ad that it there also. I was just saying use the factroy speaker wire to run the sound to the speakers.

No deff. not use anything else besies the RCAs if you are going to an aftermarket amp, because if you use something else for the aftermarket amp (not RCAs) you would be looking at trouble.

Thats what i ment sorry that i didnt ad that it there also. I was just saying use the factroy speaker wire to run the sound to the speakers.

No deff. not use anything else besies the RCAs if you are going to an aftermarket amp, because if you use something else for the aftermarket amp (not RCAs) you would be looking at trouble.
Well...the amps would likely be in the rear of the car, and the speaker wire coming from there -- so I didn't think you were trying to use existing wire. Sorry for misinterpreting.

the speakers are all 4 ohms and i cant remember rms, i think 150 or 180. are you saying i can use the aftermarket H/U with the stock amp and new 4 ohm speakers?

Connect the RIGHT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Connect the LEFT sail and hatch speakers togather so you have a 4 ohm load then connect it to the amp.

Look at the sticky because it will tell you what wires go to where.

Please stop giving advice here.

Please stop giving advice here.


Talk to Crutchfield, thats what they told me. There tech. advice told me to do exactly that for mine except my sail and hatch speakers were 4ohms each so i brough them down to a 2 ohm load.
All i did was what Crutchfield told me to do, and i would think they would know what to do.

All i did was what Crutchfield told me to do, and i would think they would know what to do.

They know what to do to get you to buy hatch speakers too, sure. They don't make money by telling people that having fewer speakers is often better.

Ok, the H/U is 50Wx4 channel

this is what I dont get, the front of the box says 4ohm, but the back of the box says Nominal impedance is 2 ohms (and crutchfield clearly says 2 ohms..)... why is that?

but other than that
the 6012i in the doors:
power range: 2-60 watts RMS (180 watts peak power)
frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92 dB

the 6022i in the sail panels:
2-ohm impedance
power range: 2-60 watts RMS (180 watts peak power)
frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 93.4 dB

5022i in the trunk:
2-ohm impedance
power range: 2-45 watts RMS (135 watts peak power)
frequency response: 67-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92.6 dB

Just to clarify, your head unit is 18w x 4. 50w is when lightning strikes.