Stereo & Electronics - Anyone running multiple batteries in there vehicle ?

I have a 200 amp alternator on the way .

Stock 105amp alternator x 13.6 volts = 1,428 watts .
200amp alternator x 13.6volts = 2,720 watts .

I am running 2 Kicker amps zx1000.1 @ 1.4 ohms , zx350.4 @ 4 ohms .

Also bought 24' of 1/0 gauge power wire for the big 3 , replacing the 4 gauge I just installed with the 1/0 gauge also .

2,720 watts for the car / around 1400 watts rms from the amps = 4,120 watts !

I was originally only wanting to replace the starting battery with a decent deep cycle agm . Only the smaller ones will fit up front so I was going to go ahead and order a monster for the rear . Looking at different companies for battery['s] .. Kinetik ,PowerMaster there are others also .

Anyone went this extreme ? I just dont think a single battery up front on these cars really cut it .

Do you plan on playing music for extended periods of time with the car off?

No but it drops into the 12's right now with the car running / stock electrical system . It doesn't just drop , it stays there until I lower the volume . Not very good for the amps , also not getting full output this way .

I was looking at getting a Kinetik 1400 for the front and a 2400 to go in the rear . Or a PowerMaster XS D5100 for the front / XS D3100 rear .

You will be fine with the Factory alt. and a better battery like a Red/Yellow top.
Personally i have about 1200 watts in my car between a single sub amp and a single full-range amp. All i have is the stock alt. and a red top, works great and the volt gauge does not dip down when i really crank it.

No but it drops into the 12's right now with the car running / stock electrical system . It doesn't just drop , it stays there until I lower the volume . Not very good for the amps , also not getting full output this way.

Yea...but the battery isn't responsible for the drops -- your alternator isn't keeping up.. Another battery is useless if you don't plan on just having it for when the car is off to run it down low (and not have to worry about starting issues with the other battery then).

You've purchased a new H/O alternator -- that should solve your problems.

You will be fine with the Factory alt. and a better battery like a Red/Yellow top.

No....he would be fine with factory battery and H/O alt.

From my experence i had the stock battery and stock alt. and i was powering that stereo and like lights would dim and the volt gauge would drop dramatically curzing at 70mph.

Then i upgraded to a Red Top and STILL had the factory alt. and the car does not dim anymore and the volt gauge doesnt drop when the car is at idle and the stereo is cranked.

Yes they battery was responsible for the change because nothing else was changed.

From my experence i had the stock battery and stock alt. and i was powering that stereo and like lights would dim and the volt gauge would drop dramatically curzing at 70mph.

Then i upgraded to a Red Top and STILL had the factory alt. and the car does not dim anymore and the volt gauge doesnt drop when the car is at idle and the stereo is cranked.

Yes they battery was responsible for the change because nothing else was changed.
Battery is doing nothing to generate power - just store it....so the strain on your alternator is the same (unless you replaced some bad wires or something also). The better battery may be better at covering it up, but either way - you don't really want the battery involved when the car is running.

Your system is pretty mild - stock setup can handle 1000 wRMS with no problems typically. A little more than that, and minor changes (like big 3, etc) might help. Beyond that, a new alternator is the best solution.

2,720 watts for the car / around 1400 watts rms from the amps = 4,120 watts !
I'm still curious about this math...why would you add the alternator output to the amplifier output?