Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - Thinking about bbc 396 what kinda power?

Thinking about doing a bbc swap this winter into my camaro I have a few questions.... First can I keep my heat and blower motor? I dont care about a/c just heat and wipers ect...


next.. I am wanting to do a budget/mild build

396... forged pistons probly around 12:1 compression
ported heads by myself...
single plain intake...
off the shelf cam ect......

would like to push a 200 shot on nitrous also...

what kinda power can be made n/a with stock ported heads/cam? ect thanks!

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1-1.3ish HP per inch is possible. Depends on roller or not. Also with 12-1, you will need race fuel to get max HP
(especially iron heads) so you don't have to choke down the advance. I run ~108 with 12-1.

Heater has nothing to do with engine, as long as it pumps water. Good luck.

Oh yea, get ready for the throw it away posts.

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Oh yea, get ready for the throw it away posts.

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I have a 468 with GM aluminum C port heads Holley strip dominator intake (neither ported), cam, big 850 carb, on like a smaller shot it trapped at 136 and all motor went like 11.1 with not so sticky tires, heavier wheels, less suspension.

10.1 compression.

Id ditch the iron heads, those weight a TON

Yeah but im on somewhat of a budget haha....

is there anyway to get around buying a k member?

i wouldn't be messing around if you're on a tight budget..you already seem to be trying to cut corners. From what you are saying it seems like its going to be a DD or DDish car....dont bother.

maybe I will bump down the compression so i can run 94 octane I want to also play on street

I have a factory K-member and the mounts were re-located.

Budgets and big power BBC's dont match, at least BBC's on a 200 shot and all, you will also need a sperate fuel system to stay safe. I have two.

BBC stuff is $$$!!!!!!!!!!

I would do the swap then start adding on, start with a basic BBC.

Id also go with at least a 454 unless you allready have the motor, Id go with a 400 small block before I ever went 396 BBC.

BBC's and gas mileage don't mix, on a stock one you might get 12mpg if you are lucky.

My car gets like 10 cruising.

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Almost every thread about 305's & 396's has 1/2 the replies saying throw it away.

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weekend only/ track car
just want to keep it somewhat streetable

Almost every thread about 305's & 396's has 1/2 the replies saying throw it away.

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Stupid people...........


Original poster, my car is streetable just really loud.

Build it right and you an have a ton of power streetable.

yah sounds cool... I already have a th400 trans, would sell my lt1+4l60 to either buy k member and crossmember or put the money towards heads..... I dont plan to do anything untill 08/09 winter I want to get a good game plan instead of just buying a bunch of parts....... Im looking for 600+ on nitrous at the wheels hoping it shouldnt be to hard.... I would however like to keep heating controls for defrost, really thats it.... and wipers for incase ist starts to rain on weekend cruises

With my cam I don;t have power brakes and heater operation is pretty much non existant.

600rwhp on the bottle is so easy its not even funny.

Have the motor mounts on the factory k member re-located and put the money towards aluminum heads.

so how much can I get a set of heads for?

Nice ones on a buget about 2k.

how good are the stock irons good for.. ported..

how good are the stock irons good for.. ported..

Depends on what heads and I don't know much about them.

Go with D port heads for sure.

I'd say wipers need to go and there is no way to make the heater work if you take the AC shit in the engine bay out and break that box, I messed with it for months before I just took the heater core and blower motor and all the controlls out. I dont have wipers.

My heater worked in my 96 when I pulled the A/C but I did not touch the box till I pulled it.

If its a car you are wanting to pull weight out of then pull everything you can. If you want to keep your radio and all that then keep the whipers.

Everything on my car still works minus the A/C and power steering.

Down the road I want a black LT1 Z car with a BBC thats striped out but still has the interior and carpet and all, just to radior, whipers, things like that.

What do you guys think motor plate or bmr k member? Id like to get the motor as far foward as I can to keep cutting and beating down to a minimum.... is there any kind of adjustment on the bmr k member? and with a motor plate do I also have to run one on the trans? or can I use the crossmember still?

pushing the motor forward is always a bad idea.... if you looking for 600hp get a lt1 with a set of heads, cam, pistons, and rods, then spray the piss outa it.... youll be closer and on a much smaller budget...

I wouldn't waste my money on heads. Find an old set of 049 oval port heads, 10:1 pistons, a healthy mechanical cam, a single plane intake and at least an 850 carb. Depending how hard you want to run it, I would suggest rods, but factory 7/16" rods are good to 650HP. Depending on the cam, I would shoot for a 4000-4500 stall converter, and the highest gear you feel comfortable with.

I have gotten true, dyno'd 578hp out of mostly stock 396/402 big blocks.

Just plan before you leap. You will find that Big Block parts are cheap!! It cost the same to build a stout 396 as it does to build a 510.

305's, 396-427's, I have made very stout motors relatively cheap out of these motors. I have 305's touching the 450 hp level and still get 25 mpg in a 3600# Monte Carlo but still runs a respectable 13.33 in the 1/4. Mild 402's running 11.70's in a 3200# Trans Am. No juice, no blowers or vacuum cleaners.

I know this is kinda old, but I would suggest the bmr or some sort of after market k member. And bolting the engine forward isnt a good idea, I did on mine but because of problems I have with the drive saft, but once I upgrade my trans Ill be putting my engine back in its hole. It sits about 2 inches foward from where it should sit. But it did save my wipers.

I wouldn't waste my money on heads. Find an old set of 049 oval port heads, 10:1 pistons, a healthy mechanical cam, a single plane intake and at least an 850 carb. Depending how hard you want to run it, I would suggest rods, but factory 7/16" rods are good to 650HP. Depending on the cam, I would shoot for a 4000-4500 stall converter, and the highest gear you feel comfortable with.

This is the best advice in this thread.

I would first look at how many parts you need to buy. If your crank & rods are good but the block needs work and pistons I would seriously consider finding a 454 block, and use your crank & rods to build a 427 combo.

Those 049 heads will work great on the smaller cubic big blocks.

I had almost the same combo you are asking about. 402 bored .060 (408 ci), oval port heads (No port work), Arias 12.5 pistons, Isky Z-89 solid cam, strip dominator single plane, list 4781 Holley on gas, 12" TCI 3500 converter, turbo 400, 4.11 rear gears, in a 4100# 67 pickup. Went 11.70's and was bullet proof.
We actually thought the heads were holding the truck back, so we put a set of 990 open chamber rectangular port heads that had been worked by one of Lee Shepard's head guys. With a matching manifold. The result ? IT RAN EXACTLY THE SAME NUMBERS.

That motor is still together, its been freshened a few times since 1984. Currently in the same truck, about 500 pounds lighter, on alcohol, injected, 10" converter, 5.14 gear. running 10.80's.

Older video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKTuGJbf3BY

Im now selling my 468, aluminum heads with porting on the intake side, oil pan to carb, may be keeping the rockers and intake. Can sell with the full ignition also.

If you ask me I would get a SBC 383 or something for the weight, a 396 BBC is not worth the extra weight.

Motor takes 300 shots just fine. Come pick it up and I can give you a deal. With a better cam and the exhaust ports ported a bit it will run 10's on the motor EASY in a full weight third gen.