Stereo & Electronics - What JL Audio Sub for my Amp???

I wanna change my entire sound system out to JL Audio. I know it's gonna take alot of money but if you want the best. You gotta pay for the best. I just wanna change out the Subs for now, and get a 10" JL Audio Sub w/ Stealth Enclosure from SubThump. Also will be changing out the HeadUnit.

Ive got a 1000Watt Rockford Fosgate Amp. Which is very good, and according to my friend that i bought the amp from. He's blown many subs with it. Which seems i may have done with my RF Punch2's.

Ive got this JL Audio sub in mind, i really dont mind spending that amount for a sub. It's the $400+ for Subs that i wont do lol Would this sub handle the power?? Or should i go for the Passenger Stealth enclosure as well & get 2 of these subs???

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=13610W3V34&tp=111

If you want quality, don't get a Subthump box and put a JL Audio sub in it. Just get a JL Audio Stealthbox. I had a Subthump box, it was made like crap. My JL Audio stealthbox sounds much better and is made 100x better.

If your blowing subs, Then your not adjusting correctly. Power is not what Kills speakers, distortion is.

"I know it's gonna take alot of money but if you want the best. You gotta pay for the best."
For the record JL Audio is hardly "the best". They are good quality equipment no doubt. You could spend less money and get better performance from other companies though. JL is WAY overpriced for what you get. For example: for $50.00 less then a JL 10W3V3 you can buy an RE Audio SE10 D4 and have the about same performance as a 10W6V2 that would cost you $400.00. Or for $250.00 get an Fi Q10 which will perform as well as or better then a 10W7.
Just food for thought! I have used JL in the past and they are quality equipment but you can do much better.

Very good point KEE! :nod:

IMO a FiQ10 ( 1000 watts rms) would be perfect with that amp, plus it need very little air space( .2 - .6 cu.ft. in a sealed enclosure). :headbang:

If your heart is set on JL, I would suggest the 10w6 or 10w7. I find that one sub is more that enough bass but it also depends on what type of music you listen to.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=5807
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=520&i=136106V2D4&tp=111

If you want the best sound there are many companies with much better sound quality then JL....Focal, Boston Acoustics, Hertz, just to name a few.

Best thing to do is listen to some high end speakers in a few cars and make up your mind from there. It is important to listen to music you like.

Not sure why the amp is blowing up speakers. That shouldn't happen.

Ok well no my hearts not set on JL Audio, ive heard it a few times. I kinda liked them, but ive been told that the Rockford P3's should be able to handle the power from my amp. Would that be about right??

What about Alpine Subs, Kicker's or any other quality brand??? Im really more focused on getting a good quality sub(s) that will handle the power and not get blown again.....

If your looking for a quality sub in those price ranges you can easily pick up an RE Audio SE10 for the same price as the W3. As far as quality goes, let me show you the SE10 D4sitting next to a W3V2. I took these pictures when I swapped them out to compare the 2 side by side. Take a good look at that sub (SE10) it handles 600watts RMS and 1200 watts peak power with about 20mm of xmax (excursion). Keep in mind these subs are about the same price!!
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06131.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06132.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06128.jpg

Ok well no my hearts not set on JL Audio, ive heard it a few times. I kinda liked them, but ive been told that the Rockford P3's should be able to handle the power from my amp. Would that be about right??

What about Alpine Subs, Kicker's or any other quality brand??? Im really more focused on getting a good quality sub(s) that will handle the power and not get blown again.....


For a good quality sub I would go with the JL W6 or Image Dynamics Q series v3 (version 3). BOth these subs have had very good reviews done on the audio mags.

If your blowing subs, Then your not adjusting correctly. Power is not what Kills speakers, distortion is.

exactly. I personally dont care for rockford fosgate. I have a friend who has had a lot of different Rockford fosgate compenets. (Amps, subs, speakers.) The only thing that has worked well for him are his 4" speakers in his dash. He now has Kicker subs and a kicker amp. they sound much better. However, I AM a huge fan of JL audio. I had 2 10'" W0s in my 92 camaro with a custom box that i made and a Alpine amp. sounded very good. I dont think a W3 would be able to handle a 1000 watt amp unless you turn the amp way down. a W6 maybe. A W7 would handle it and then some. but youll never fit a W7 in ANY stealth enclosure. I say get the W3 and the right JL amp to go with it.

How does this guy fit in a steath box?


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06128.jpg

If your looking for a quality sub in those price ranges you can easily pick up an RE Audio SE10 for the same price as the W3. As far as quality goes, let me show you the SE10 D4sitting next to a W3V2. I took these pictures when I swapped them out to compare the 2 side by side. Take a good look at that sub (SE10) it handles 600watts RMS and 1200 watts peak power with about 20mm of xmax (excursion). Keep in mind these subs are about the same price!!
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06131.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06132.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/walking-dead/Dyno5-12-06128.jpg
Who cares how they look, all that matters is how they sound. I have heard both, and the JL's were much cleaner. There is a reason why so many IASCA cars have JL's.

I don't care at all how they look. I care how they are built AND how they sound. I've used both those subs myself. I'm not knocking JL Audio, I clearly stated they make a good product and truely believe they do. However, When I listened to the W3V2 pictured there, both with the same amp running to them, the RE was not only cleaner but louder.
All I'm saying is stats for stats, building materials for building materials, and from what I've experienced personally, the RE is a better sub then the W3 and they are in the same price range.

deejaydaze
Sub fits fine in a stealth box....that was the other reason I used the SE10, I had heard good things about them and was running a pair of JL W3's in stealth enclosures. I liked them just fine but wanted a little more low end bass. So I tried the SE10's and am very happy with them.

Did you rip the door off your washer when you were done takin' pics? Big ass magnet... LOL

For a good quality sub I would go with the JL W6 or Image Dynamics Q series v3 (version 3). BOth these subs have had very good reviews done on the audio mags.

Don't go with either. W6 is good but overpriced and ID hasn't kept up with the motor technology.

Right now, im looking into the Alpine Type X 10" Sub or possibly some Kicker Comps....Anyone using this sub? or any Alpine subs??? If you could let me know just how good these have been for you & etc.??

Alpine is definitely two steps below JL. Stick with RE, Fi, Ascendant, Dayton Reference, etc.

Ahh ok...

KEEAUDIO, what brand is this FiQ10 sub??? I know you say it basically equals the W7 by JL Audio and someone else said that it should be just perfect for my amp. Would that be right?? If so, i just may go after this sub.

Here's the Fi car audio link:

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=1547ae6bb935a48/shopdata/index.shopscript

:headbang:

Thanks for the link man.

hey man i have a JL stealthbox with the 10w3 still in it in my garage from when i sold my 97... i would imagine it would fit in your 02. i dont think they ever changed that cubby it sits in. anyways the only reason i took it out of the car is because the kid was a few hundred shy of what i wanted when i sold it. i bought it back in 02, but the car never saw winters and im not a big fan of blasting the bass. i just liked having i nice crisp sub that wasnt overpowering. anyways let me know if you are interested.

edit: oh yeah, as far as what sub to run with the amp.. as long as the gain is not up to high i would imagine it would be fine. i had a rockford amp that i got a good deal on pushing that sub, i wanna say it was 250 watt

Who cares how they look, all that matters is how they sound. I have heard both, and the JL's were much cleaner. There is a reason why so many IASCA cars have JL's.

he posted those side-by-side pics to show the difference in build quality, not just for aesthetic value. it's pretty clear that the CDT has a larger magnet and a stronger cast basket, vs. JL's stamped-steel basket and smaller magnet. granted, that doesn't always tell the whole story, but judging by those pics, there's a significant difference, nonetheless.

and as far as "There is a reason why so many IASCA cars have JL's".....that's not even a valid argument. there are a wide range of different subs that JL makes, and obviously, not all of them are of the same quality, or built for the same purpose. that's like saying it's ok to buy a Chevy Aveo to race because the Corvette is such a badass car....i mean, after all, they're both built by Chevy, right? you need to include the make/model in that statement for it to hold any weight whatsoever.

don't get me wrong, i personally really like JL Audio products, but that's not going to stop me from weighing all the pros/cons between a JL product and another one i'm considering, just because one of them has the JL logo on it.

Is there seriously enough depth to put that SE10 D4 in a stealth box?

RE se 10s only need 6" mounting depth, Fi Q 10s 6.5" and my ID max 10s need7.625" which fit fine in my 2 stealth boxes. :D

he posted those side-by-side pics to show the difference in build quality, not just for aesthetic value. it's pretty clear that the CDT has a larger magnet and a stronger cast basket, vs. JL's stamped-steel basket and smaller magnet. granted, that doesn't always tell the whole story, but judging by those pics, there's a significant difference, nonetheless.


Those don't mean much at all.

Those don't mean much at all.

that really depends on the application.

for normal "everyday" people, it really doesn't mean anything, and can actually be seen as detrimental, since cast basket & larger magnet = more weight, which is bad for people wanting to keep the weight down in their car.

but for people who are pushing things to the limit, a cast basket means less flex, which equates to more movement of the cone itself, which equals more output. a larger magnet will usually also help serve to control that extra movement, which can equate to higher accuracy at those output levels.

granted, not all subs are created equal, so that doesn't always apply, but the general theory behind it is sound.

JL's baskets do not have any notable flex. Just because something is technically better does not mean it is necessary.

As far as a stronger magnet goes, that changes the Thiele/Small parameters of a speaker, and actually, a strong magnet tends to improve a driver at HIGHER frequency. Also, there are lots of really low quality drivers (check Ebay) with HUGE magnets to sucker people into buying them.

Alpine is definitely two steps below JL. Stick with RE, Fi, Ascendant, Dayton Reference, etc.

And the RF subs are two steps below the Alpine's. Actually the Type X is a decent driver, the Type R is a fart machine though.

Either way, ALL of the drivers you are looking at are too nice for a pre-fab box. You'd be WAY better off to put more of your budget into a real enclosure designed for a driver you select than to do it the other way around. The box really, really, really affects the response of the sub.