phantomzer0
08-13-2008, 01:13 AM
Finally, here is the fix! No more spending 400 bucks to get this fixed.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=883334
Big thanks goes out to Greg Crow for figuring this out and documenting it so we ALL can fix our problems!
Here is an exact copy of his post in his thread:
Not sure which Forum this should be under so please feel free to move this and delete this sentence.
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
http://www.rpmmotorsportstulsa.com/Greg/BCM1a.jpg
http://www.rpmmotorsportstulsa.com/Greg/BCM2a.jpg
If you take a look at Greg's second picture you will see what appears to be a "T" shape made out of some of those metal ends. From what I have gathered nearly everyone's problem comes from the bottom of the "T" shape. You need to look very, very closely to see the cracks. You may not be able to see them st some angles.
Apply your solder and you should be good! Awesome!
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=883334
Big thanks goes out to Greg Crow for figuring this out and documenting it so we ALL can fix our problems!
Here is an exact copy of his post in his thread:
Not sure which Forum this should be under so please feel free to move this and delete this sentence.
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
http://www.rpmmotorsportstulsa.com/Greg/BCM1a.jpg
http://www.rpmmotorsportstulsa.com/Greg/BCM2a.jpg
If you take a look at Greg's second picture you will see what appears to be a "T" shape made out of some of those metal ends. From what I have gathered nearly everyone's problem comes from the bottom of the "T" shape. You need to look very, very closely to see the cracks. You may not be able to see them st some angles.
Apply your solder and you should be good! Awesome!