Flipped Motor Mount
#1
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Flipped Motor Mount
I read about it somewhere and thought it might be a worth while upgrade. Whoever posted it before didnt do the greatest job explaining how do it. If anybody has a pretty easy to follow explanation about how to do this please post.
Thank you
Chris
Thank you
Chris
#2
Hey Chris -
Good job on the do-it-yourself intake install!
This job is actually way easier than your intake:
Car in park-lock.
You need (2) 17mm wrenches or a wrench and a socket; a can of WD-40, and 1 beer.
Unbolt the 2 bolts Badd highlighted (nothing will happen to you or your car). Remove the bolts from the bracket, and remove the bracket.
Take one of the bolts and tighten it down pretty tight on the front mount, there is a metal substrate inside the mount. What a couple of us did is flex the mount around to spay the WD-40 on the top and the side by the engine. Spray liberally.
Just like Badd said, put a wrench on both ends and rotate toward the engine. One or two tries and mine flipped. If it is welded from the engine bay heat, it may take a little more effort, but the WD and a little flexing should take care of it.
Take the bolt back out of the mount, and reassemble. I put the bolt in the engine mont first, then the radiator mount last. If it doesn't align, you can push the car backwards a little and the mount will line up.
Tighten it pretty good.
Should take about 10 - 15 minutes
Good job on the do-it-yourself intake install!
This job is actually way easier than your intake:
Car in park-lock.
You need (2) 17mm wrenches or a wrench and a socket; a can of WD-40, and 1 beer.
Unbolt the 2 bolts Badd highlighted (nothing will happen to you or your car). Remove the bolts from the bracket, and remove the bracket.
Take one of the bolts and tighten it down pretty tight on the front mount, there is a metal substrate inside the mount. What a couple of us did is flex the mount around to spay the WD-40 on the top and the side by the engine. Spray liberally.
Just like Badd said, put a wrench on both ends and rotate toward the engine. One or two tries and mine flipped. If it is welded from the engine bay heat, it may take a little more effort, but the WD and a little flexing should take care of it.
Take the bolt back out of the mount, and reassemble. I put the bolt in the engine mont first, then the radiator mount last. If it doesn't align, you can push the car backwards a little and the mount will line up.
Tighten it pretty good.
Should take about 10 - 15 minutes
#4
The part we are talking about is the rubber bushing inside the black frame on the radiator support (lower arrow).
You rotate it 90* clockwise, looking at it from the driver side fender.
You rotate it 90* clockwise, looking at it from the driver side fender.
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Kaz, if you could go over exactly what kind of improvement this will give me with throttle response and such. If nobody has heard of any bad that comes of doing this mod, i will do it tomarrow after work.
Chris
Chris
#6
From an engineering standpoint, this mount stops the rotation of the engine toward the firewall after a torque load is placed on the transaxle under normal acceleration.
The rubber factory mount has 2 legs on it that dampen the rotation of the engine through a "calculated" compression rate of the legs. By "flipping" the rubber mount, there is no longer the controlled deceleration of the mount, just dampening from the rubber mount.
Result is more of an instantaneous throttle response, like what the Z's have, gives the car a better performance feel.
I doubt it would hurt anything, IMO it's just another carry-over V-6 part on the W-Body so it doesn't upset Grandma.
The rubber factory mount has 2 legs on it that dampen the rotation of the engine through a "calculated" compression rate of the legs. By "flipping" the rubber mount, there is no longer the controlled deceleration of the mount, just dampening from the rubber mount.
Result is more of an instantaneous throttle response, like what the Z's have, gives the car a better performance feel.
I doubt it would hurt anything, IMO it's just another carry-over V-6 part on the W-Body so it doesn't upset Grandma.
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#8
Originally Posted by BuffaloSS
They're 15mm bolts...not 17...just to clarify. I'm going out now to install the Poly mount i got. I'll let you know how it feels.
Cool - we're waiting for the update
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Originally Posted by BuffaloSS
They're 15mm bolts...not 17...just to clarify. I'm going out now to install the Poly mount i got. I'll let you know how it feels.
Chris
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Well, given i only had 20 min when i actually got out there, i didn't get this done. Short of cutting it out, has anyone ever successfully removed the bushing without ruining stuff, including tools?
I loosened the radiator mount bolts and everything and still it wouldn't bugde. I pryed at it with a screwdriver and nothing. Hit it with a hammer and nothing. Ideas?
I loosened the radiator mount bolts and everything and still it wouldn't bugde. I pryed at it with a screwdriver and nothing. Hit it with a hammer and nothing. Ideas?
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Thanks...that was the next step. I was hoping to keep the stocker intact but i see that's not happening. If the poly is too harsh i'll just buy a new OEM unit...gotta be what? $10 for a new one? But getting it in will be priceless.
#15
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why is it still in the box??!! get that thing in already and post results!!! LOL
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
#16
So, the poly are 2 piece, with a metal tube. Install on each side, attach mount and bolt?
Can you heat the stock rubber enough to make it pliable and push it out? I have an old hair dryer in the garage that I use for removing decals and emblems, not as hot as a heat gun, but may be hot enough for this task. I know you don't have a garage, maybe at your parents?
Can you heat the stock rubber enough to make it pliable and push it out? I have an old hair dryer in the garage that I use for removing decals and emblems, not as hot as a heat gun, but may be hot enough for this task. I know you don't have a garage, maybe at your parents?
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Yup...pretty easy getting it in...just tough getting the OEM out in one piece. It's so damn cold out i haven't really wanted to spend the time doing it, but it WILL be done by tomorrow evening. I plan to get it done on my lunch break...right after i stop at FedEx to ship the eBay items i sold.
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Well, as promised i installed the poly mount on my lunch break.
I couldn't cut the bushing out while the mount was attached to the car, so i removed the mount and tried to do it in my hand. After nearly cutting my hand off a few times, i took it downstairs and put it in the vice. Still couldn't cut it out so i grabbed the sawzall and went at it with the only blade i had (metal). After a few minutes and more than i few re-tightenings of the vice, i had the center of the bushing cut out and pryed the perimeter from the mount.
Went back out to the car and attempted to install the poly unit. After pressing (and hammering) as much as possible to get the two sides of the mount to mate, it still would not get in enough to allow the bolt to pass through enough. Back downstairs to the vice and pressed it in the rest of the way. The problem is that due to the angled shape of the mount itself, the little tabs on the poly mount were causing it to not go in all the way. Once i pressed it in, the dogbone fit around it just fine. (i'll post a pic as soon as i can upload it from my phone)
Got it all installed and started her up. You can feel the V8 at idle a little bit more, and even more so when slowing to a stop while the engine/tranny downshifts.
As far as added performance, i think it's worth the $35. There is absolutely NO lag now when you jam on the pedal, from ANY speed. I was cruising at 30 and punched it and broke the tires loose with ease.
I'd give it 2 thumbs up!
[EDIT] Sorry for the crappy quality, but you can see the poly "nubs" squished outward in the photo:
[/edit]
I couldn't cut the bushing out while the mount was attached to the car, so i removed the mount and tried to do it in my hand. After nearly cutting my hand off a few times, i took it downstairs and put it in the vice. Still couldn't cut it out so i grabbed the sawzall and went at it with the only blade i had (metal). After a few minutes and more than i few re-tightenings of the vice, i had the center of the bushing cut out and pryed the perimeter from the mount.
Went back out to the car and attempted to install the poly unit. After pressing (and hammering) as much as possible to get the two sides of the mount to mate, it still would not get in enough to allow the bolt to pass through enough. Back downstairs to the vice and pressed it in the rest of the way. The problem is that due to the angled shape of the mount itself, the little tabs on the poly mount were causing it to not go in all the way. Once i pressed it in, the dogbone fit around it just fine. (i'll post a pic as soon as i can upload it from my phone)
Got it all installed and started her up. You can feel the V8 at idle a little bit more, and even more so when slowing to a stop while the engine/tranny downshifts.
As far as added performance, i think it's worth the $35. There is absolutely NO lag now when you jam on the pedal, from ANY speed. I was cruising at 30 and punched it and broke the tires loose with ease.
I'd give it 2 thumbs up!
[EDIT] Sorry for the crappy quality, but you can see the poly "nubs" squished outward in the photo:
[/edit]