Ok, I wasn't 100% sure if that was the case. I'm very interested in how this turns out.
Honestly I'm not completely sold on the idea of getting both the cam and crank signal from the opti, though some of that is just from ignorance.
I like wildside's version, since it seems much more complete (albiet expensive).
Either way this is fantastic news for LT1 owners and congrats to both AKAFred and Wildside for both systems!
__________________ 94 Hawk #298
San Diego F-Bodies
Ok, I wasn't 100% sure if that was the case. I'm very interested in how this turns out. Honestly I'm not completely sold on the idea of getting both the cam and crank signal from the opti, though some of that is just from ignorance.
I like wildside's version, since it seems much more complete (albiet expensive).
Either way this is fantastic news for LT1 owners and congrats to both AKAFred and Wildside for both systems!
God you guys and your "i dont like getting cam and crank singnals from the cam, its so much more accurate with a crank trigger." Who here doesnt realize that the Optispark, all SBCs, all BBCs, all SBF and BBF, all mopar V8s and 6s, pretty much every single car made until the mid-late 80s gets the crank signal through the cam?????!!! It doesnt make shit for a difference! When GM designed the opti with the 360 slot setup (720 reference points), they were seeing crankshaft angle deviations of less than 2* maximum, with standard deviation from the norm being just at 1* on average. Just an extra length of wire from a crank sensor mounted down low will incur nearly the same delay and error as around 1* of error through the cam chain.
Calm the fuck down Larry.....if you read the rest of that sentence that you bolded you'll see that I mentioned that I not 100% familiar with it, and in turn would like to know more.
__________________ 94 Hawk #298
San Diego F-Bodies
God you guys and your "i dont like getting cam and crank singnals from the cam, its so much more accurate with a crank trigger." Who here doesnt realize that the Optispark, all SBCs, all BBCs, all SBF and BBF, all mopar V8s and 6s, pretty much every single car made until the mid-late 80s gets the crank signal through the cam?????!!! It doesnt make shit for a difference! When GM designed the opti with the 360 slot setup (720 reference points), they were seeing crankshaft angle deviations of less than 2* maximum, with standard deviation from the norm being just at 1* on average. Just an extra length of wire from a crank sensor mounted down low will incur nearly the same delay and error as around 1* of error through the cam chain.
Where do 99% of OE manufacturer's get their crank signal from today?
That's what I thought!!!
Mike
__________________ '71 GMC Sierra Grande 1500, LT1/4L60E,Running LS1 electronics and ignition courtesy of EFI Connection
'75 Chevrolet Vega, 5.3/200-4R, coming together.... someday
'99 BMW 540I, 6 speed, daily beater, just clicked 182,000 miles
'99 Dodge Ram 2500, Cummins diesel, 5 spd. It don't like Winter, like me
Jesus Christ you guys are coming off as elitist pricks. I mentioned that I didn't completely know/understand all the Crank and Cam position sensor info, but would like to learn more....
__________________ 94 Hawk #298
San Diego F-Bodies
Jesus Christ you guys are coming off as elitist pricks. I mentioned that I didn't completely know/understand all the Crank and Cam position sensor info, but would like to learn more....
I wasn't dissing you I was pointing out to GRR a simple fact. I hope you didn't take my post as such !
Mike
__________________ '71 GMC Sierra Grande 1500, LT1/4L60E,Running LS1 electronics and ignition courtesy of EFI Connection
'75 Chevrolet Vega, 5.3/200-4R, coming together.... someday
'99 BMW 540I, 6 speed, daily beater, just clicked 182,000 miles
'99 Dodge Ram 2500, Cummins diesel, 5 spd. It don't like Winter, like me
Anyone who does this swap if they log a P0304 code will have enough common sense to realize that it means cyl#7. You have to change the bank assignment for the fueling aspect of things, so the PCM changes the mixture on the correct bank. It doesn't matter who's setup you are using, the same rules apply!!!
I don't want to start a pissing contest, just want to keep it to the facts!!!
Mike
Don't be an idiot, if the codes are wrong for the wrong firing order then it is NOT PROPER. Real simple on that one.
A custom OS, or a 'regular' OS that is hacked to change the firing order is the only way to 'see' the proper misfire, so a P0306 doesn't help you at all, as it only says a msifire happened, not on what... The only way to do that is to PROPERLY remap the firing order... Remap all the codes you want but the program is wrong until that is FIXED.
Just because shit runs does not mean it is not a HACK. A proper solution is one were all details are attended to. And that means proper codes because they are mapped the way they are meant to be.
I just can't stand the stupidity you and S10Wildeside want to further to sell more of his product. Greed sure does make people act stupid.
My harness that I purchased just repinned them at the PCM connector, works the same way!!!
Mike
__________________ '71 GMC Sierra Grande 1500, LT1/4L60E,Running LS1 electronics and ignition courtesy of EFI Connection
'75 Chevrolet Vega, 5.3/200-4R, coming together.... someday
'99 BMW 540I, 6 speed, daily beater, just clicked 182,000 miles
'99 Dodge Ram 2500, Cummins diesel, 5 spd. It don't like Winter, like me
No stupidity here nor greed here, sticking up for a product that I know works.
Wow, you sure come around to crap in other peoples threads because it is a competing product to your 'buddies' setup... That is greed.
And, things are either complete or not complete, and just because *some* of the codes are 'ok' does not make the rest proper.
You are being the idiot in trying to downplay the advancement that in this thread, all because it competes with your 'buddies' product. THAT I consider to be ignorant and idiotic.
And for the record, based on this stupidity here I have ZERO interest in wasting my tie on the likes of you.
Wow, there is the stupidity... That is exactly why I got out of being partners in a shop, too many neandrethals expecting guns or a big wrench or a fist fight will get them respect... You really are a retard...
I never said one product didn't have the others problems, I did say that they are both still HACKS, just that your buds has more expensive parts to buy, thus making it undersireable for the same reasons I posted in his thread. The big thing he is/was marketing it as the 'best' way to do this. To that I disagree and view THIS to be the best way via simplicity and lower cost.
You really need to grow up, I guess it will always be the case with people with smaller minds that get real butt-hurt when they are questioned and realize how petty and stupid they have been... That pent up stupidity usually materializes in violence. I will say this, I don't take threats lightly and have zero issue going to the police if stupidity continues. Laws are there to protect people form the likes of you and even if I met you, good luck getting away with assault, as it is a serious offense. I was cordial to you prior and even in PM, but this level of stupidity from you shows how much of a redneck idiot you really are. A tech you may be, but an engineer you are not.
actually the opti only has 360 reference points.. its does not reference the the light beam closing, only opening. and it gives 1 timed pulse... basically 1 pulse for ever 2deg crank rotation.
i had found a jpg that said the lt1 references the the signal as it rising and dropping but that would be pointless on a timed pulse..
the biggest problem with my setup is when the chain wears out (engine wears out) you will loose some timing due to chain slop. ie if there is 2deg slop while tuning the crank the ignition timing will be retarded 1deg.. i really dont see this a problem for me because if my motor is tired i don't really care if it has a 1-2 deg less timing..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grr
God you guys and your "i dont like getting cam and crank singnals from the cam, its so much more accurate with a crank trigger." Who here doesnt realize that the Optispark, all SBCs, all BBCs, all SBF and BBF, all mopar V8s and 6s, pretty much every single car made until the mid-late 80s gets the crank signal through the cam?????!!! It doesnt make shit for a difference! When GM designed the opti with the 360 slot setup (720 reference points), they were seeing crankshaft angle deviations of less than 2* maximum, with standard deviation from the norm being just at 1* on average. Just an extra length of wire from a crank sensor mounted down low will incur nearly the same delay and error as around 1* of error through the cam chain.
guys can you take your bickering to private messages? it really has noting to do with this thread..
also s10wildside has done a fantastic job with his efforts.
my way is simply a different way of going about it, i was hoping to keep costs down as low as possible.
mods if you read this can you delete all this bickering out of my thread... thanks
I will pull all my posts , I am hoping that the -95 TA - The Beast- will do the same!
I never had an issue with your setup, and I commend you on pioneering a different way of doing things, hats off to you!!!
Sorry for the BS!!!
Mike
__________________ '71 GMC Sierra Grande 1500, LT1/4L60E,Running LS1 electronics and ignition courtesy of EFI Connection
'75 Chevrolet Vega, 5.3/200-4R, coming together.... someday
'99 BMW 540I, 6 speed, daily beater, just clicked 182,000 miles
'99 Dodge Ram 2500, Cummins diesel, 5 spd. It don't like Winter, like me
actually the opti only has 360 reference points.. its does not reference the the light beam closing, only opening. and it gives 1 timed pulse... basically 1 pulse for ever 2deg crank rotation.
i had found a jpg that said the lt1 references the the signal as it rising and dropping but that would be pointless on a timed pulse..
the biggest problem with my setup is when the chain wears out (engine wears out) you will loose some timing due to chain slop. ie if there is 2deg slop while tuning the crank the ignition timing will be retarded 1deg.. i really dont see this a problem for me because if my motor is tired i don't really care if it has a 1-2 deg less timing..
Props Fred! I'm really interested to see how this turns out!
__________________ 94 Hawk #298
San Diego F-Bodies
So whats the price list looking like if i send you an opti to convert? I just so happen to have a few extras. As far as that any other part i would need from you. Thanks.
there is no pricing.. i have a idea but untill i can say its 100% tested i dont want to commit to anything.. eariler in the thread i was hoping to get some test units out inorder to get some road time. but none will be on a car untill 2 months from now.. i will have my car insured and on the road in 2 months..
the hardest part for me will be getting a decent tune.. i just started tuning and this requires a large ammout of tuning to just get a base tune.
i am thinking if i can get a vortech 5.7 tune for 411 pcm it would be a close starting point for the lt1.. i dont know if it exists.. right now i am running a ls1 tune and its quite lean at idle.
