that tiny tube isnt enough. i was able to do one side with that little thing before i ran out. ended up wiping it off and got some copper RTV. You will also need a fuel line disconnect tool. You can leave the throttle body and fuel rails on the intake when you go to pull it off.
hmmmm I believe you gotta pull the throttle body because you can get the front 2 bolts on the intake.. With the fel pro gasket set you a throttle body gasket
__________________ *95 Z28 M6 (Muff) Dont Dive Til 5. No Muff To Tough!* *Free mods* *160 t-stat**MSD 8.5mm Wires**Flowmaster 3" Exhaust*
*Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe**New LT1 Crate Engine**Cat delete*
hmmmm I believe you gotta pull the throttle body because you can get the front 2 bolts on the intake.. With the fel pro gasket set you a throttle body gasket
nope, you can get those bolts out with the throttle body still on. You use a open end wrench on those 2. done it several times that way.
Ahh ok... Yeah also the 5th bolt on the drivers side you will have to use a wrench on too its a pita to get a socket on there and get it out without rounding the head off. BLAH.lol if you were closer id come and help you since ive done it 5 times and can get the intake off in about 15-20 mins
__________________ *95 Z28 M6 (Muff) Dont Dive Til 5. No Muff To Tough!* *Free mods* *160 t-stat**MSD 8.5mm Wires**Flowmaster 3" Exhaust*
*Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe**New LT1 Crate Engine**Cat delete*
you will need...Fuel line disconnect tools
9/16 deep and shallow sockets
I think a 5/16 socket or a 1/4 socket
Pliars
torque wrench
air ratchet if possible
10mm socket for the 3 bolts holding the throttle bracket to the manifold
__________________ *95 Z28 M6 (Muff) Dont Dive Til 5. No Muff To Tough!* *Free mods* *160 t-stat**MSD 8.5mm Wires**Flowmaster 3" Exhaust*
*Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe**New LT1 Crate Engine**Cat delete*
Make sure to retorque the manifold bolts after a weeks worth of driving. They will come loose and it is possible the manifold will leak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkishton1486
Yes but if you pull the fuel rail you SHOULD install new seals and clean everything
Injector seals? Nah. Not unless they are leaking/dry/cracked.
__________________ We had a good run, Pops: 4/5/43 - 10/18/09
1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 SS #597 M6
395.3 SR with bead blasted cam lobes to add x-tra x-tra lifter roller traction. That's what wins races!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack @ CRD
Bret, we have never heard of or dealt with you or "Bauer Racing Engines."
Just finished up mine last weekend. I pulled the fuel rail off the intake because I didn't have any fuel line disconnect tools handy. What I did was carefully laid the fuel rail with lines on top my radiator with an old blanket under it. I also pulled each o-ring off the injector to clean it and inspect it, also don't forget to clean the injector holes in the intake manifold very well before reassembling if you go this route.
Also be sure to clean all the old gasket/RTV off the heads, intake, and block without allowing the pieces to fall into the lifter area or head ports. I tucked some rags throughout the lifter valley to catch anything that might fall. Be sure to degrease all areas that are going to be sealing, I used brake cleaner sprayed onto a rag and carefully wiped the surfaces. Take your time, keep everything organized and clean all the parts well and you should not have any problems.
just as someone said ^^^, CLEAN EVERYTHING!!!! Brake clean works best, i had to do my intake gaskets twice because i did not clean the back valley area where you put the RTV sealant, spewed oil like no ones business.
__________________ 2008 Silverado Crew Cab 4.8 (stock) slow
1996 Formula Convertable (not broke anymore 8-4-09) (( BROKE AGAIN 8-15-09)) DEAD slow
I replaced the intake gasket twice before I got it right. First two times was with a moderate bead of the black rtv. Leaked out of the back corner. Third time I used a whole tube of the copper rtv. Never leaked after that.
When you get oil seeping out either end of the engine, where the intake manifold mates with the top of the block. Usually, it's at the back, because the heat of the EGR tube "cooks" the RTV, and it dries and shrinks, causing the leak.