355 LT1 break in, what oil????

94BlueZ28 · 06-30-2009, 08:50 PM

So I have a freshly rebuilt 355 LT1 with all forged internals and a cc306 and I want to run full synthetic all though I'm curious if it's a good idea or not to run this for the break in period. I want to end up with Mobile 1 or some amsoil! What do you guys suggest for the breakin???? I've always been told to stick with one or the other and not to be swapping around so Does it matter to much or what, I mean I'll be changing the oil at 500 anyways right? Should I swap to Full synthetic after or start with it? Looking for opinions and suggestions for sure, so let'em rip! Thanks again Steve

BLK,97,T/A,M-6 · 06-30-2009, 08:55 PM

get the cheapest oil you can find. Seriously, its gunna be changed in like 500 miles anyways, and all your using it for is to clean out the motor.

RamAir95TA · 06-30-2009, 08:58 PM

If it's a new motor, I'd change the oil after 50 miles, not 500. Maybe AGAIN at 500, but don't wait 500 miles before changing the oil for the very first time.

hitmanws6 · 06-30-2009, 09:02 PM

NEVER use synthetic for break in. for my 353 i changed at 500, 1500, then every 3000. i used Castrol GTX 5W-30 because it comes in a 5.5 qt jug, which is what our cars take. and as long as you do every 3000 conventional will be fine.

94BlueZ28 · 06-30-2009, 09:03 PM

So about 50 miles, no shit!!!! Damn I can't wait to start this biatch, it's been 3 months. I should have her ready by this weekend hopefully, Just need to finish up my Lid conversion and, install coolant lines, fuel injectors and top with fluids...For folks wondering about the 3 in SS hood from VFN, yeah the lid conversion works so you can put the hood down, lol! I read some confusion about this and I proved that it works! Any way's sorry back to the oil, Just anxious, lol!!!

za355tx · 06-30-2009, 09:47 PM

Just use any kind of regular motor oil like previously stated. I'm not the most experienced person in knowing how fast it needs to be changed but I was told 500 miles by many people but again best to ask an expert in that area. But again any regular motor oil will do well for break in. Then after the motor is broken in use your preference. Good luck.

LS1 SPEED · 06-30-2009, 10:25 PM

We use a cheap 10w30 for initial startup, heat cycle and then change the oil / filter before it leaves the lift.

We like to use Valvoline V1 or Rotella as it has additives that most oils no longer have.

I say 500, 500 and then go to your 3000 miles intervals unless you want to be extra safe.

I've run the Rotella 15w40 in my car since the new engine. The motor probably has 1500 miles and has had 5 oil/filter changes. I change it after ever 2nd time to the track no matter how many miles.

Speed Density · 06-30-2009, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1 SPEED

We like to use Valvoline V1 or Rotella as it has additives that most oils no longer have.

This is good info for initial start. Research the piss out of additives in oil, zinc etc.. and you'll see why its good to have in a fresh motor. I used lawn mower non-detergent oil becuase it had all the minerals I wanted for break in.

94BlueZ28 · 07-01-2009, 11:30 AM

So I'm gathering that I need to use a 30W! Ok and to change the oil around 50 miles or so and then to take the car out and due several heat cycles ranging from 3500-4000 then, after this I'll be ranging from 5000-5800 to seat the rings. Got it, anything else I should know?

SS RRR · 07-01-2009, 11:38 AM

Everyone has an opinion on how to break in an engine and when to do an oil change. Here's another:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I like this one because it concentrates on the most important thing there is to know about properly breaking in an engine- seating the rings.

Formula96 · 07-01-2009, 12:30 PM

^^^ that was a very well written (maybe a little bias) article, plenty of proof and research to back it up.

riceburnerZ28 · 07-01-2009, 08:08 PM

I've been using rotella 15w40 and a bottle of red stp oil treatment for the entire breakin period. I wouldn't run synthetics for a least 3000 miles.

ss.slp.ls1 · 07-01-2009, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS RRR

Everyone has an opinion on how to break in an engine and when to do an oil change. Here's another:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I like this one because it concentrates on the most important thing there is to know about properly breaking in an engine- seating the rings.

That's basically what I do. Bring it to operating temp, check for leaks, then take it out on the street and cycle it through acceleration/engine braking. I use some Valvoline 10w-30 conventional and I change it after 50-100 miles.

92camaroguy · 07-01-2009, 08:36 PM

I use rotella and even switched the dd over to it and by the oil pressure gauge has a little more pressure. Or mabey I just started looking at the gauge.

93M6Formula · 07-02-2009, 12:28 AM

I've had good luck with using Halvoline for a break-in oil because it has all the old detergents and minerals in it unlike most new oils now and really does a great job of seating the rings! Then i start using Castrol GTX 10W30 non-synthetic after about 2000 miles of Halvoline.

Hackscamaro · 07-02-2009, 11:07 PM

i used just cheap 5w-30 with the comp cams break in oil additve. the additive is like 15 bucks a little pricy. either that or use rotella because of the additives like stated above

shbox · 07-02-2009, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94BlueZ28

So I'm gathering that I need to use a 30W! Ok and to change the oil around 50 miles or so and then to take the car out and due several heat cycles ranging from 3500-4000 then, after this I'll be ranging from 5000-5800 to seat the rings. Got it, anything else I should know?

Don't use a straight 30W. Too thick. You want a multi-viscosity to get to all those new parts.

Speed Density · 07-02-2009, 11:42 PM

Its not the engine as a whole the requires the different types of oils its more the rings and bearing clearances that need it.

buffman · 07-03-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shbox

Don't use a straight 30W. Too thick. You want a multi-viscosity to get to all those new parts.

Unless it's like 30 degrees outside a straight 30 weight oil, would flow just fine.

BTW we don't use flat tappet cams. All that extra ZDDP isn't going to hurt, but it's certainly not needed lke some think it is. I suppose the STP oil treatment has either a bunch of Moly in it, or ZDDP?

Honestly, I'd follow the links guide to seating the rings. I'd run a standard conventional oil for break-in because it's not worth the cost of you draining out the oil all the time.

As far as switching between oils once you settle to go to synthetics, it's not a problem. Change all the damn time.

JAKEJR · 07-03-2009, 12:16 PM

Thee are differing view on this, so here're mine:

I always used Valcoline VR1 20W50, which is believe Golen Engines recommends too. I also add GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). I use those for their additive packages.

I only move to full synthetic after the engine has several hundred miles on it, however, I DO change the oil and filter after only a few heat cycles of the fresh engine. I also add another dose of EOS after the first oil change.

Using 20W50 I never rev the engine high until the oil temp comes up.

If you're interested in reading an investigative report on engine oils and their additives, CorvetteActionCenter has it posted as a STICKY on their site.

Jake

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