No It couldn't of been I think I fucked up the hole screw driver method thing. I was touch the 2 big post which what I was told from the guys at the zone was that I need to touch the small post with the little purple wire on it and the top post, that in return should allow it to engage fully. I just heard it turning when I touched the other 2 post. I heard the actaull motor do nothing. My battery is geeting charged right now. They said it would be 45 minutes to an hour to get it back. I set up my remote starter and those to post and I'm going to see what that does. I have no damn clue what's the matter with this mofo peice of shit car. I'm about to stick a match in the gas tank and burn it to the ground. Just kidding it's in my garage! Not sure what the hell the problem is!
Oh the battey read 10 1/2 so it should have been enough. I really think the starter took a shit all though it seems like the actually key/switch and the ignition shit is sending a signal down, what would this be????
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Ok guys what do you have for me, this is the deal! I hooked up my remote starter to the starte itself and the motor turns over just fine! Like I said before I have the coil wire and the fuel connections disco'd. So it turns over just fine but will do absolutely nothing with the key. Is my VATS shit fucked up from not being running for 4 months or what. What do I need to do from this point on?????? Where does it go from this point considering the car turns over like I could fire it. I mean hell I could hook up the spark and fuel and let her rip I'm sure but then how the hell will it shut off????? Looking for answer's and possible solutions!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Ok guys what do you have for me, this is the deal! I hooked up my remote starter to the starte itself and the motor turns over just fine! Like I said before I have the coil wire and the fuel connections disco'd. So it turns over just fine but will do absolutely nothing with the key. Is my VATS shit fucked up from not being running for 4 months or what. What do I need to do from this point on?????? Where does it go from this point considering the car turns over like I could fire it. I mean hell I could hook up the spark and fuel and let her rip I'm sure but then how the hell will it shut off????? Looking for answer's and possible solutions!
Does your security light flash when you turn the key? It's possible that it's a VATS issue, but no one can tell you for sure. Bypassing the VATS with a resistor takes 15 mins and a few bucks of parts. If you got the car fired up with the remote starter (key has to be in the on position), it will still shut off when you turn the key back to the off position. That will cut power to everything and shut the car down. But if the problem is in fact the VATS, it shouldn't fire even with the remote starter because the BCM not only supplies the ground to the starter, it also sends a signal to the PCM to supply a ground to the injectors allowing them to pulse.
__________________
"All the money and horsepower in the world won't make you a better driver" -SRJ
Ok so the guage in the car has the range from 8 to 18 ok, so mine is reading about 9, This still would be enough to atleast turn it over you would think correct????? Like I said all the lights and everything else works!
9V is not enough. you need 13V. Trust me.
9V will turn the lights on but it won't even turn your starter over.
New battery time.
__________________ 93' Firebird Formula, 6M - Headers, Y-pipe with highflow cats, SLP catback, 52MM Edelbrock TB, Suncoast ramair hood with ramair intake, Modified Prom chip, oil cooler, Hotchkis Strut tower brace, Hotchkis Panhard rod and lower control arms, 1LE suspension, LG Motorsport 17in. Wheels, WS6 hatch.
1. ok when you put your motor back donw in did you use the same year harness and pcm?
2. you need at least 12 volts on the gauge to get it started usually
3. check your body ground from the battery.. i know you said your motor is but your battery is too..
4. odds are if it cranked when you jumped it with the screwdriver its your starter soliniod..
so get a new starter!! that would be the best thing most likely
__________________ 94 Z28- 355..new updates coming soon.....79 TRANS AM 10th ann- numbers matching 61,000, in restoration...79 formula...81 trans am still in the original paint, but soon getting updated...85 camaro Z28 its mean, enough said....
one more thing!! hook a battery charger up to and and put it on 12vlt 100 amp start and jump it with the screwdriver..if it starts then its a starter if not then be looking towards your vats
__________________ 94 Z28- 355..new updates coming soon.....79 TRANS AM 10th ann- numbers matching 61,000, in restoration...79 formula...81 trans am still in the original paint, but soon getting updated...85 camaro Z28 its mean, enough said....
Ok the battery is good, I took it to get charged and it was barely dead to start with, it's a red top optima that's an 2007, I had 600 and some odd cold cranking amps! I hooked up the remote starter to the actually starter, same concept as a screw driver. It turns over just fine, so to me the starter would be good, it has to be from the starter back towards the steering column or what not. I'll be pulling parts of the dash tomorrow to get a good look at the VATS connectors again and give a good look around. I did gut the entire uderside dash so maybe I could have missed something but not very likely! I triple checked I'm sure! But what's one more time
Oh I wanted to touch upon this security light thing.....My security light does not even come on PERIOD when I turn the key over....Soemthing isn't right right there in my eyes.... No blinking no nothing, not on at all just like your gauges woul come on when you first try to crank or turn the key to acc...... What's my problem????? LOL!!!!!!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
May have found a problem with my deletion of components, I'm not sure at the moment but I think I deleted this in the picture #1 check out the link and scroll down to the image http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
I was under the impression all of these boxes where for the airbags, what do you guys think, it's called ignition switch input, maybe it's the same style setup as my 94 camaro.....I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow but let me know what you guys think.
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
man call speartech.. they will tell you all about the harness and what you can delete and what you cant and they will also tell you if it could be a vats problem...you want to talk to some bad ass dudes???! call them!! 765-378-4908
__________________ 94 Z28- 355..new updates coming soon.....79 TRANS AM 10th ann- numbers matching 61,000, in restoration...79 formula...81 trans am still in the original paint, but soon getting updated...85 camaro Z28 its mean, enough said....
Well shit I'll be taking the under portion of the dash apart tonight, I'm pretty sure now thinking back that I only removed one silver box on the passenger side and that was for the passenger side airbag. I hope I can find something disconnected that I may have forgot or missed upon inspection tonight or I'm going to be heated.... I'll try and call speartech later on after work! I'm thinking it has to be with this hole VATS shit. Not sure if by passing the VATS would help or not. So all I would have to do is solder in a diode.... Sounds easy but who knows if it will work or not. There has to be something that isn't allowing the ignition/key to tell the starter to engage! I'm missing something if I can get it to turn over just fine with my remote starte switch!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
When you are under your dash, look towards the passenger side firewall. You will see a hole filled with a rubber gromit and three bundles of wire coiming into the car from the engine that look like this:
The C210 (black connector) has a purple wire which is the "Theft deterrent relay to starter solenoid feed" wire. Make sure that connector is connected properly. You can also trace that set of wires inside to see if anything looks awry...
__________________
"All the money and horsepower in the world won't make you a better driver" -SRJ
OK, so check it out..... I have figured it out, When I gutted my car I had removed the passenger side airbag which included the bracket that has 2 grey box looking relays on one side and 1 more relay plus the VATS module thing....So yeah all that was chilling in my garage on the floor in a pile. I plugged all of these things back in and boom, she has power from the key to the starter. She turns over, all though my wife is on her way home from work so I cannot start it until she gets here. She said she would be pist because although I have 4 months of time working on the car she has 4 months of seeing me here and there because I have spent so much time on the car. I have to wait another 20 minutes or so. I'll be trying to get some videos uploaded on here when I get the chance! All the work hopefully paid off. Thanks guys alot for the info and I would like to send a thanks to JOHN on SPEARTECH all though they really don't mess with our cars anymore! Hey still knows a bit about the electrical system! Anyway's thanks again Steve
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
OK, so check it out..... I have figured it out, When I gutted my car I had removed the passenger side airbag which included the bracket that has 2 grey box looking relays on one side and 1 more relay plus the VATS module thing....So yeah all that was chilling in my garage on the floor in a pile. I plugged all of these things back in and boom, she has power from the key to the starter. She turns over, all though my wife is on her way home from work so I cannot start it until she gets here. She said she would be pist because although I have 4 months of time working on the car she has 4 months of seeing me here and there because I have spent so much time on the car. I have to wait another 20 minutes or so. I'll be trying to get some videos uploaded on here when I get the chance! All the work hopefully paid off. Thanks guys alot for the info and I would like to send a thanks to JOHN on SPEARTECH all though they really don't mess with our cars anymore! Hey still knows a bit about the electrical system! Anyway's thanks again Steve
Always nice to triumph over problems.
Awaiting vids.
__________________
"All the money and horsepower in the world won't make you a better driver" -SRJ
Good deal, But i would still plan on replacing that starter soon. Hope not but with my experience you will be
__________________ 1994 Z28 A4 www.fquick.com/djjab57
355 build underway, LE2 Heads, Small CamUMI LCA's & Relocatio Brackets, UMI Pan Hard Bar, Sun Coast Ram Air Box, LT4 Knock Mod, SLP Ultra-Z Hood, Hotchkis Springs, Jet Hot LT's, Custom Y-Pipe 160* T-Stat, SLP Air Foil
For sale NIB GM Oil sending unit (back of intake) $35 shipped fits late 94's - 97
Oh my god it's a totally different car, open headers is f***ing crazy load, sounds like NASCAR, lol! I'm awaiting my registration because my tags expired while it sat in the garage for 4 months. Damn it! I took it down the road with no plates just to give it a little hot lap, then it finally was idling by itself. I'll be posting some vids shortly if I can figure the shit out!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
hey man i told you speartech would know what to do...they are great there!! he reworked my harness and did a great job..your welcome bro!! haha
__________________ 94 Z28- 355..new updates coming soon.....79 TRANS AM 10th ann- numbers matching 61,000, in restoration...79 formula...81 trans am still in the original paint, but soon getting updated...85 camaro Z28 its mean, enough said....
1994 Z28 A4
