So yeah the motor's done and everything has been looked over twice but when I turn the key the starter does nothing, all lights and everything works plus stereo. How can I check the starter or jump it to see if it will work???? What do you guys suggest. All I have disconnected is the coil wire and the fuel pump harness in the back by the tank because I want to prime the car with oil! This should have nothing to do with it right! Not sure what the hell is going on but furious!!!!! Has to be that damn starte although it worked prior to the rebuild 4 months ago! I looked on shbox's site and evrything is hooked up correctly!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
If you pulled that motor did you double check you r ground on the PS of the block?? That is where I would start, check the ground then grab a test light and see where you are not getting power or you can lay a screwdriver across your 12v constant from the batter to your 12v switched (key to crank, the little wire) on the starter solenoid.
Yes I just checked the grounds, I have one on the Passenger side that hooks all into the battery wiring stuff and then I have my engine ground on the driver side. I just moved the ground wire on the starter itself because it was touching the starter housing but still nothing! I have no damn clue what to do? So you say to lay a screw driver across the starte bolts then and then try to crank it????
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
Ok so the guage in the car has the range from 8 to 18 ok, so mine is reading about 9, This still would be enough to atleast turn it over you would think correct????? Like I said all the lights and everything else works!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
Yes I just checked the grounds, I have one on the Passenger side that hooks all into the battery wiring stuff and then I have my engine ground on the driver side. I just moved the ground wire on the starter itself because it was touching the starter housing but still nothing! I have no damn clue what to do? So you say to lay a screw driver across the starte bolts then and then try to crank it????
No, once you lay the screw driver accross the starter bolts the starter should spin. If it doesn't then you have a power/ground issue somewhere.
__________________ World's Greatest Mechanic...In The World
LSx into EVERYTHING!!!
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EVERY TIME i have rebuilt a motor and put it back in the starter always goes out with in the first week, An old worn out starter is not used to the new compression and it just fails. Therefor now when I or anyone i know rebuilds i tell them to go ahead and get a new one ! !!!!!!! !!!
This came of my 94 Z28, Has some surface scratches but they appear just to be in the clear coat so they should be able to be buffed out $100 OBO Prefer NOT to ship
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Craz28
And I heard adding an aluminum flywheel was like putting a 75shot of nitrous on it?
So what about the battery, It should still be good enough to hear the starter engage, click or do something right????? It's reading about 9 and I do notice that the mirror lights are dim as hell although every light works along with my EWP and the stereo.....
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
No, once you lay the screw driver accross the starter bolts the starter should spin. If it doesn't then you have a power/ground issue somewhere.
Ok so the screw driver method worked, the damn thing spun, now what could be the problem??????? It has to be the battery being low right??????
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
I don't think 9V is enough, and I wouldn't go by dash gauge if it was that low. Check the battery with a multimeter, even a cheap one will do. If you have a battery charger go ahead and connect it for a while. Also, don't forget about the neutral safety switch in the shifter or the clutch switch if you worked around those areas while the car was down.
Oh shit, I had the tranny out, so maybe that is my issue! Let me check that real quick!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
ther are 2 small terminals on the starter that the small wire can be connected. after my engine install i put it on the terminal away from the engine. I had no start. switched to the terminal closest to the engine and it started.
__________________ 1994 formula A4
2001 trans am M6
ther are 2 small terminals on the starter that the small wire can be connected. after my engine install i put it on the terminal away from the engine. I had no start. switched to the terminal closest to the engine and it started.
You must be talking about the little purple wire that is for the VATS correct? Mine is closer to the engine side. Mine looks just like the one in the shbox link.
I have no turn at all with the key, I can touch the 2 prongs on the starte and then you can hear it actually turning at least making some type of noise!!!!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
ther are 2 small terminals on the starter that the small wire can be connected. after my engine install i put it on the terminal away from the engine. I had no start. switched to the terminal closest to the engine and it started.
Negative, there are three posts on the starter and there should only be one post small enought to fit the eyelet on the purple wire.
__________________ World's Greatest Mechanic...In The World
LSx into EVERYTHING!!!
Dishing out reality checks, one person at a time...
I don't think 9V is enough, and I wouldn't go by dash gauge if it was that low. Check the battery with a multimeter, even a cheap one will do. If you have a battery charger go ahead and connect it for a while. Also, don't forget about the neutral safety switch in the shifter or the clutch switch if you worked around those areas while the car was down.
So my neutral safety switch that is attached to the tranny is all the way forward towards the front of the car and it's in park, so that's right correct????
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
So my neutral safety switch that is attached to the tranny is all the way forward towards the front of the car and it's in park, so that's right correct????
Mine is an M6 so I don't know, sorry, BUT usually they are attached to the shifter.
I checked the PCM ground above the starte and it's all good! What the hell am I missing??? I'm running the battery up to autozone all though it sucks becasue it's a red top which is slow charging battery, I'm fucked because my battery in my truck is a top mount only and it's huge. Son of a biatch. It better be this damn battery, f***ing car!
__________________ I would rather push a chevy then drive a ford!
Forged 355 LT1,306 comp cam,ARP everything,port and polished heads & intake,Hooker super comp LT's through magnaflow x-pipe to dynomax bullets dumped,58mm BBK TB,EWP,LS1 lid conversion,3200 vig stall with rebuilt 4L60E,3:73 gears,BMR goodies,with plans of a 150 shot this spring,Nothing stock but the block
lol thats crazy
i had many problems with my starter, but what i did is i ran a relay to bypass all the bullshit it goes through and its worked since. Basically my purple wire wasnt getting enough juice to let the starter kick in a turn. When i turned the key all you hear in the start sliding into the flex plate.
Also i ran a ground straight to my starter