ok so I've been putting off trying to remove the cam retainer bolt I broke off into my block last week, just been working around it putting everything else back together.. but the new bolts arrive today at the dealer so I'm going to TRY and get it out with an easy out. but its not going to be so easy, the bolt had red loctite on it and it didn't leave me with a flat surface to work with, it broke on an angle so if I can't get it out, what can I do? is there anything I can do other than dropping the k-member and wheeling the engine off to a machine shop? I was talking to my dad yesterday about it and he was saying it won't be so easy to drill the entire thing out and re-tap the hole if thats what needs to get done, especially if your not working with a flat surface..
what do you guys think?
__________________ '96 z28 built T56, AI 226/234, crane gold's 1.6I/1.5E, cc918's, CM PR's, impala HG's, becool rad, ps mids, 2OTL borla w/ DMH plate & TD, u/d pullies, MSD 6AL & wires, TR55's, 160tstat, LT4 KM, madtuner, !AIR!, !EGR!, !CAT!, LS1 DS, poly mounts, powerslot/hawk HP+, hotchkis LCA's, centerforce df, pro5.0, !168.5#'s!
On The Way: LE2's, 30# SVO's, p&p LT4 intake, Whisper lid
Get a heavy duty soldering gun - at least 240 watts. Heat the busted bolt as much as you can with it. If you can get it hot enough, the Loctite will let go. You might even want to try one of the butane torch type soldering tools, although they are more limited in their heat capacity.
You may look at going into the hole with a Dremel tool to try and flatten the surface a bit if it's really extreme, but what I usually do is this:
Get a small center punch, and holding it at an angle equal to the angle of the broken bolt, make your mark. Then, do the same thing with the drill until you have an indentation in the end of the bolt, and bring the drill horizontal at that time. Start with a small bit, and use cutting oil. Once you have your hole, go to a little bit bigger drill bit, and so on. If you're really careful, and get your hole well centered, you can drill almost the entire bolt out without getting into the threads.
I agree with fleetmgr,but I would get a propane torch like from lowes or home depot and heat the bolt and the surface around the bolt and then once it's hot you will need a good punch and a hammer. Hit the outer edge of the bolt with the punch and it should start tuning.You can also get an automatic center punch from a parts store or snap on,these work great on removing bolts in tight places.
__________________ 94 Trans Am| K&N CAI|Jet Hot LT's & ORY|Flowmaster Catback|B&M Ripper|4.10 GM Gears.
I agree with fleetmgr,but I would get a propane torch like from lowes or home depot and heat the bolt and the surface around the bolt and then once it's hot you will need a good punch and a hammer. Hit the outer edge of the bolt with the punch and it should start tuning.You can also get an automatic center punch from a parts store or snap on,these work great on removing bolts in tight places.
This works well also as long as there is room, and the bolt isn't too small.
One thing we do to remove broken bolts is get a dremal and put a notch in the center of the bolt big enough to get a flat head screwdriver in there and get it out that way. Shouldnt be to hard if there is enough of the bolt sticking out.
__________________ 96 Camaro Z-28
MODS: Pacesetter Long tube headers Dumped, , 255lph walbro fuel pump, Lingenfelter intake, 52' mm throttle body, Cam 24X/25X .61X/.59X 110 LSA, 1.6 Crane Gold RR, 190cc Ai Heads,TH350 fmvb, 5000rpm stall ,TA Diff cover, Linelock, Tune by Ion, 275/60-15 nitto555r's, All the weight reduction you can think of!
If you're that worried about it and not so confident in being able to do it I'd call around the local machine shops or a well known repair shop. There's a local guy around here that will do on-site thread and broken bolt repair. It'd be worth the $50 to have it done cleanly and not butcher the hole and cause a bigger headache, just my .02
thanks for the responses! I've been too busy today getting ready for a wedding so I haven't touched it yet and prolly wont get a chance to till after this weekend. but I did just take some pics to show what I'm working with>
^thats the smallest easy out I have and as you can see nothing is sticking out its a lil recessed.
^and thats the size of an intact one
outsourcing this would def be ideal, I'm scared as hell about messing up my block...how ever the nearest machine shop is an hour away.. he drags a mustang tho so I MIGHT be able to talk the guy into commin down and helping me out tho, I'll hafta see about that.
other than that theres some good ideas in here, keep em coming! I'll prolly end up trying to get something to work monday..
__________________ '96 z28 built T56, AI 226/234, crane gold's 1.6I/1.5E, cc918's, CM PR's, impala HG's, becool rad, ps mids, 2OTL borla w/ DMH plate & TD, u/d pullies, MSD 6AL & wires, TR55's, 160tstat, LT4 KM, madtuner, !AIR!, !EGR!, !CAT!, LS1 DS, poly mounts, powerslot/hawk HP+, hotchkis LCA's, centerforce df, pro5.0, !168.5#'s!
On The Way: LE2's, 30# SVO's, p&p LT4 intake, Whisper lid
that is a good idea but I don't think I could fit a rod in there while holding the nut on to weld it to the bolt.
No rod, it's wire. Just get a nut with a slightly smaller diameter I.D. than the bolt. Hold the nut in place with some vise-grips (or better yet, get someone else to hold it), and get a tack weld in the hole. Once you've got it tacked in place, weld the hole shut. Doesn't have to be perfectly centered, you just need something to get a wrench on.
The welding a nut is the best suggestion so far if a left-hand drill bit wont work.
I seel both left hand bits and a stud extractor welding alloy at my work. The welding rod is designed so that the slag protects the threads even if the bolt is broken off down in the hole.
Make a small puddle of weld on top of the bolt, weld a flat washer on, then a nut, and turn it out. The heat from the welding process will benefit you as well
__________________ -JUST A SLOW Z28
Quote:
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
With that said I'm just not exactly sure what the point of building a car for an internet fantasy class is anyway.
The welding a nut is the best suggestion so far if a left-hand drill bit wont work.
I seel both left hand bits and a stud extractor welding alloy at my work. The welding rod is designed so that the slag protects the threads even if the bolt is broken off down in the hole.
Make a small puddle of weld on top of the bolt, weld a flat washer on, then a nut, and turn it out. The heat from the welding process will benefit you as well
damn that sounds pretty tit! whats the name of this stud extractor welding alloy? maybe I can find it locally.. if not you might be getting a PM from me, I'll try another method before waiting on something in the mail.. but I'm kind of skeptical.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1936 LS1
No rod, it's wire. Just get a nut with a slightly smaller diameter I.D. than the bolt. Hold the nut in place with some vise-grips (or better yet, get someone else to hold it), and get a tack weld in the hole. Once you've got it tacked in place, weld the hole shut. Doesn't have to be perfectly centered, you just need something to get a wrench on.
oo duh, that makes sense
__________________ '96 z28 built T56, AI 226/234, crane gold's 1.6I/1.5E, cc918's, CM PR's, impala HG's, becool rad, ps mids, 2OTL borla w/ DMH plate & TD, u/d pullies, MSD 6AL & wires, TR55's, 160tstat, LT4 KM, madtuner, !AIR!, !EGR!, !CAT!, LS1 DS, poly mounts, powerslot/hawk HP+, hotchkis LCA's, centerforce df, pro5.0, !168.5#'s!
On The Way: LE2's, 30# SVO's, p&p LT4 intake, Whisper lid
options if I cant remove broken bolt from block? 
so if I can't get it out, what can I do? is there anything I can do other than dropping the k-member and wheeling the engine off to a machine shop? I was talking to my dad yesterday about it and he was saying it won't be so easy to drill the entire thing out and re-tap the hole if thats what needs to get done, especially if your not working with a flat surface.. 
