i dont know my car is pretty much stock like i said before i will be camming it but nothing big the the brightest when it comes to specs of stuff more a body guy my self as for the studs 3/8 as thats stock right?
2) Because it doesnt change the cost of the rocker arm much, if at all usually.
3) Because valvetrain ridgidity is always a good thing regardless of the level of the build.
4) If you buy a quality lifetime-warrantied rocker, you can use them on a possible future build that would "need" them.
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-'94 Z-28 M6 AZSM Headers, Custom XFI Baby Cam, Borla
4:10's, Built T-56, MT ET Streets, UD Pulleys, LT4 KM, SLP Lid
TPIS FPR, Dynaspark, N20 Outlet Plate Kit 12.75 Best ET | 112.96 Best MPH | 1.91 Best 60' | 5800ft Elev
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrd1972
That head aint worth shit. Your valves are not even straight.
^agreed! Buy something you can use down the road. Sa rockers are for bolton cars only imo. Nsa rockers w/ 7/16 studs should be mandatory for heads/ cam setups. If you can afford it, get the comp high tech stainless. This rocker will most likely outlive the car.
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2002 Z28, 1sc, A4, SLP lid, 1.85 rockers, jantzer ptb, hooker LT's w/ ory, cb exhaust, shift kit, 3.73's. times to come...
2000 Buick GS, gutted oe airbox, 3.4 pulley, 3" down pipe w/ stock exhaust, full tune. 13.81@101.2
2003 Silverado LS x-cab, 5.3, Airaid cai, 3.73's.
go here: http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scor...s.html#chevySB
you will need to click on small block chevy and it will give you part numbers for all the ratios for 3/8 and 7/16. unless you have had the heads worked to accomodate a higher lift i would not go over 1.5 ratio. you can go 1.6, i have seen it done, but depending on whom you speak with the stock springs (even on a stock cam) are being maxed out or dangerously close if you go with 1.6.
go here: http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scor...s.html#chevySB
you will need to click on small block chevy and it will give you part numbers for all the ratios for 3/8 and 7/16. unless you have had the heads worked to accomodate a higher lift i would not go over 1.5 ratio. you can go 1.6, i have seen it done, but depending on whom you speak with the stock springs (even on a stock cam) are being maxed out or dangerously close if you go with 1.6.
Right, but he is planning on installing a cam, read his last post. Most guys run nsa 1.6's with 7/16 studs and guideplates cammed. Yes the springs will need to be replaced.
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2002 Z28, 1sc, A4, SLP lid, 1.85 rockers, jantzer ptb, hooker LT's w/ ory, cb exhaust, shift kit, 3.73's. times to come...
2000 Buick GS, gutted oe airbox, 3.4 pulley, 3" down pipe w/ stock exhaust, full tune. 13.81@101.2
2003 Silverado LS x-cab, 5.3, Airaid cai, 3.73's.
Right, but he is planning on installing a cam, read his last post. Most guys run nsa 1.6's with 7/16 studs and guideplates cammed. Yes the springs will need to be replaced.
i read his last post i just dont understand the relevance of you pointing that out. i wanted to leave nothing to assumption that he knew about the springs.
ok so i have decided like posted above that the motor i have now is gonna stay mostly all bolt ons and im going to be building a 383 on the side for now i want a set of rollers rockers for the bolt on motor so 1.5 3/8 good idea?
no because you will have to sell those and buy nsa 7/16 for the 383. Buy the right rockers the first time imo. Get a set of 7/16 nsa 1.6's w/ upgraded springs now and transplant them onto your 383 when it's built.
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2002 Z28, 1sc, A4, SLP lid, 1.85 rockers, jantzer ptb, hooker LT's w/ ory, cb exhaust, shift kit, 3.73's. times to come...
2000 Buick GS, gutted oe airbox, 3.4 pulley, 3" down pipe w/ stock exhaust, full tune. 13.81@101.2
2003 Silverado LS x-cab, 5.3, Airaid cai, 3.73's.
well im building an entirely diffrent motor on the side the motor in the car will stay how it is minus some things but the new motor will be w whole diffrent block (dart block) so im building a street motor and a whole diffrent race motor on the side so for the bolt on street motor good to go with the 1.5s?
1.5s are fine because they are the stock ratio anyway. if you dont plan on using them for another build then it might not be a great investment. 1.6s would have a greater resale value if/when you part out the current motor.
__________________ 1994 Z-28 switching to a 427 LS7X full Global West suspension 10pt cage Visage body kit, SS hood, commander spoiler,with custom house of Kolors paint.
1995 z-28 383 lt4 hot cam ARP main studs,JE Forged pistons, H-Beam rods,Eagle crank, ported to match heads and intake. 58mTB 36lb injectors,Long tube headers, Custome tune.K&N CAI MSD Blaster coil, Msd optispark, Msd wires Lightly built trans, Monster 2,300-2,500 stall,150 wet Nos http://www.carfreaksvideos.com/Videos.html
well im building an entirely diffrent motor on the side the motor in the car will stay how it is minus some things but the new motor will be w whole diffrent block (dart block) so im building a street motor and a whole diffrent race motor on the side so for the bolt on street motor good to go with the 1.5s?
Why spend the money on a set of 1.5 roller rockers? The stockers will do the same thing on the stock cam. There is no significant gain, unless you increase the rocker ratio to get more valve lift, hince 1.6! Spend the money on 1.6's with atleast an ls6 spring(cheap), or don't do it at all imo.
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2002 Z28, 1sc, A4, SLP lid, 1.85 rockers, jantzer ptb, hooker LT's w/ ory, cb exhaust, shift kit, 3.73's. times to come...
2000 Buick GS, gutted oe airbox, 3.4 pulley, 3" down pipe w/ stock exhaust, full tune. 13.81@101.2
2003 Silverado LS x-cab, 5.3, Airaid cai, 3.73's.
Sounds like a waste of money to me if your building a 383.
Why not buy something once and just switch it over when you do the swap. I recommend the Comp High Tech Stainless rockers as well. Also 1.5s are a complete waste of money on either set up IMO.
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LE2, Speedinc, Bedroom built 355, T56
LE2 H/C/I, Speedinc tuned, LPP, UMI, BMR, Dana S60, Street twin, blah blah blah.......
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