So I decided since my junk was out of the car, that I would go ahead and get rid of the banjo bolts, $22 rubber washers and an ugly pipe.

So, here is what I got (note you could do 90* off the head, but i dont like messing with getting the nipple on the AN side facing the right direction):

1/4 NPT to -6an Straight - x2
-6an 90* - x2
-6an Straight - x3
-6an Tee - x1
-6an Line

I used aeroquip socketless hose rather than stainless line. I had braided like I hate soggy bread.

EDIT: From Chris Sikora!

Parts


So, put your NPT fittings with red loctite in the head. Crank them down but remember your pushing into aluminum so dont go overboard.


Next, put your 90* -6an each side and measure where you want your Tee to end up between. I did it more on the passanger side head so that It would run up in a somewhat OE location.


So your stuff is measured or eyeballed, put the fittings/lines together:


As far as the end up at the raditator goes, I did NOT use a fitting. I will just t-bolt clamp it.

 

Awesome. Lots of people have been looking for something like this for awhile now. Thumbs up!

EDIT: How much did the fittings cost you?

 

I'd have to look at the invoice from summit. But I placed a huge order to finish my fuel system anyway, so I decided to just grab the extra half-dozen fittings.

Tony.

 

mines the same way..i thought about doing a write up but just never did..

its like 45$ in fittings..makes life alot easier..i have mine setup to run back in the hvac return port on the water pump..its the top one on the pass side..the others have freeze plugs in them.i used a 90 off the head though.

heres links..i used the summit fittings and there push lock hose

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220636B/ tee fitting

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220647B/ an to npt fitting

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220711-N/ 90 hose ends

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220701-N/ straight hose ends

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220783-B/ hose


option like i did i used 90 an to npt in head..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220651B/

 

looks good

 

Nice to see pictures of a solution. I agree that the straight adapters then the elbows is a little more install friendly. I'd probably use some thread sealant instead of Loctite, though.

 

Nice write up .Some additional information .The head is actually threaded 1/4 npsf which is a straight thread ,the 1/4 npt will screw in and tighten up but I always run a 1/4 npt tap in first so that you have a proper seal. You should also use steel fittings in the heads as when you use aluminium you are putting 2 of the same materials together and the chance of galling is greatly increased and screwing up the head.JMHO.

 

what do you know?

 

HEY!!!!!!! I have over 800 posts on here what is that worth?

 

looks great!

 

That is actually very true, Chris. I should have mentioned the NPSF/NPT thing. I did not think about the steel fittings though.

Shbox, loctite, at least a considerable amount on smaller NPT fittings works very well for me. I have had some issues with teflon paste in the past.

 

I used "Great White" thread sealant paste on my fittings. Completely overkill, but I did not want to worry about having issues removing them later or having it leak.

 

This is a great post. If I ever have to re do the stock line, then I am going this way.

 

Awesome I know what Im doing next time the motors out!

 

Awesome job

 

Nice easy to follow write-up with pics

 

can u post a picture of how u you set it up on the water pump? good idea

 

sorry i dont have a pic..its a welded male bung
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220060/

i use freeze plugs in the other 2 holes and my inlet and outlet on my pump also has -16 an bungs on it.

you could just use a push lock hose and then clamp to put it on the heater return line..but if you doing it in braided then your going to need a bung so you can connect your a/n line to it..

 

ok, thanks

 

Can this mod only be done with the engine out? Im in the process of getting parts for my headgasket swap and wondering if this is the route i should be going with when i have to deal with the crossover tube?