steve-d

iTrader: (7)

Did a search, couldn't find any threads in this forum.

Is it worthwhile?

I understand this "free" mod is designed to prevent the overheating of the TB and thereby the loss of power. I can see it working on an LS1/6 given the intake manifold is composite and doesn't transfer heat very well. In the case of the LS1/6 why heat the TB unnecessarily?

But what about the LT1/4? The intake is Alum and does transfer heat. Wouldn't the coolant hose actually act to limit the temp of the TB to that of the coolant. If you're running a 160* stat, it could be limited to about 175* or so.

Thoughts or experiences?

Regards
Steve

WhiteThunderZ28

I did the TB Bypass on my LT1 and I noticed a crispier throttle response, but is has been dyno prove that the bypass give l2 to 9 HP and 2 to 10 pnds tq... But it all depends on what is done to your car and what shape the engine is in.

Only reason why the coolant goes through the TB is to prevent the TB from icing up. Since I live in Wisconsin I never had a problem of my TB icing up or any type of problems at all.
For heat transfer why worry cause air will come in through the TB like it always has maybe be a little cooler since theres a TB bypass. But who knows.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

The intake might be ~120 degrees. Your coolant is much closer to 200 degrees.

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

What the TB coolant bypass does is prevent the hot coolant from heating up the incoming air.

Colder charge= more hp. Worth 7hp on average,

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

Its like ur slowing the tb from getting hot so quickly and so much...because the tb still will eventually start to get hotter...people with the 160 therm and fan mod still do the tb-pass mode and get good results....I did it on mine no side affects and felt a differences not to big...and its true what "whitethunderz28" it is dyno proven.

steve-d

iTrader: (7)

Kinda hard to believe that when the engine is doing 4,500-6,000 rpm the air would have a chance to get warm when its moving at mega speed. I don't know how fast the air flow is moving, but I don't see how it'd have a chance to get warm.

I guess the dyno numbers don't lie, but it seems counter intuitive to believe the air molecule being in the throttle body for a nanosecond could have a chance to take on heat.

Off comes the hose.

Regards
Steve

YoungGunLs1

Out from the Grave...LOL

I live in MN and have a 96 Z28...The previous owner did the throttle body bypass plus 160* thermo.

QUESTION:

Is it safe to be driving the car around in the winter when it is 10-30* outside with this mod, or should I reverse it and hook the coolant lines back up? I am not sure how to go about hooking them back up, I am sure it is easy, but I am just curious if the Throttle body really will ICE up if the coolant lines aren't attached..or if it is safe to just leave it and not worry about it.

Help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Built LT1

iTrader: (3)

Here's a before and after dyno chart with an LT1 doing this mod.

http://ws6.com/mod-8.htm

B4CZR2

I did the bypass on both of my cars, I noticed better throttle response. I recomend doing it. And like Built LT1 showed us on the dyno results, it does make more power.

Now for you guys running it in the cold, I wouldn't worry about it. Your engine bay will get hot no matter what. This will result in heat soak and the TB will eventually get warmer as well.

Built LT1

iTrader: (3)

There are two reasons the factory runs coolant lines throught the throttle body. The biggest reason it is done is to reduce emissions due to the intake temps being higher. The second reason is to prevent the throttle blades from sticking/freezing in extreme cold. I don't know the answer to your question about 10 degree ambient circumstances, but I think WITH the heat of the motor, 30 degrees would not freeze the blades.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

There hasn't been a single confirmed case that I am aware of where the tb froze after doing this mod, and plenty of people have done it in cold weather, so I would say yes it's perfectly safe.

hyperzone

I think if you were driving at a consistant high speed (>50MPH - like on a highway) with the outside air temperature below 20 degrees,... I could see that **** getting PRETTY damn cold and the I dont believe the heat soak would be enough with that kind of constant airflow. I think thats more of the situation it was intended for. I'm in FL so, mine is bypassed. Just my thoughts...

bmccrary

I did it, and wow what a difference!

I couldnt get the back line off the TB, with out pulling it off. But that line runs to the T fitting just to side of the TB. Plug it and get a new peice of hose and connecter, and run it from the T fitting to the line that goes to the front of the TB. I wasnt expecting much, but it made a big difference on throttle responce and the intake is much cooler. I have the 1LE elboe, and used to get so hot, but it doesn't anymore. I had no idea that the coolant did that.


I would highly recommend doing it.

-bryan

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

what exactly is a tb bypass?

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

yes i woke this thread from the dead

SexyTransAm

iTrader: (6)

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

On your TB there are 2 hoses going into it at the bottom, you remove those 2 and connect them to each other.

hakno

Sorry for hijacking the thread but could I remove the entire system that feeds coolant to the TB? The engine sits in a Hotrod so I dont have the connections for the return on the radiator.

I wish to remove the steel piping that starts from the rear of both heads and eventually leads up to the trottlebody. Can I do that without compromizing the cooling system?

hakno

shbox

You don't need the coolant routed to the TB, but you do need the pipes connecting the heads. That is an important part of the reverse flow LT1 cooling system. It is there to remove steam pockets from the heads and keep them evenly cooled.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

I did it to make removing the intake manifold that much easier. You're not going to get any gains out of it.