I have a Meziere on my car(was on it when I bought it) and I hate it honestly. Around town its alright, but out on the highway it tends to run a little warmer than I like it to. And plus its actually starting to go out anyways, its starting to groan and whine and leak from its weep holes. So this weekend Im pulling it off and replacing it with a standard water pump and be done with it. Its a good excuse to replace my opti too since its starting to act up. I just wish everything would have waited a little longer till I had my heads and cam and could have done it all at one time.
I have a Meziere on my car(was on it when I bought it) and I hate it honestly. Around town its alright, but out on the highway it tends to run a little warmer than I like it to. And plus its actually starting to go out anyways, its starting to groan and whine and leak from its weep holes. So this weekend Im pulling it off and replacing it with a standard water pump and be done with it. Its a good excuse to replace my opti too since its starting to act up. I just wish everything would have waited a little longer till I had my heads and cam and could have done it all at one time.
Maybee a bit of a pita. Your going to have to pull the timing cover back off to put the gear drive back in and then put the the t/c back wich can be a pita b/c you have to lower the oil pan. Mine runs a little warm on the highway as well but im used to it now. I'll just be replacing mine with another ewp.
i have a meziere HD and i like it alot. i run a low temp thermostat(160*) and i use the royal purple coolant additive and i never see more than 175-180* on my temp gauge,,, it seems like. i noticed a difference from before and after the mod.
Electric waterpumps do free up power, the car will feel and genuinely be a little slower with a mechanical. The power usage difference is because the electrics move less water so they need less power to operate.
For a street car IMO the electrics are bad because of the failure mode, frequently sudden and total. Where a mechanical will almost always weep for some time first giving you warning.
They are however good for drag cars looking for that one extra tenth. I will likely try one this year for that purpose.
I 've got one and have not had any problems around town at the track or on the highway. I also have a 160 thermostat and the big ass Be Cool radiator. It's been on the car about a year now and no problems yet. I probaly shouldn't have said that!
__________________ -Josh
local series V299, NMCA OC 9004
1996 Z28, LT1 355, N/A, M6, LE Cam, Ported Heads/ Intake, LT's, Midwest Chassis Fab 9, and all the other stuff, 3462lbs
1.6 60' 11.71 @ 118
New engine coming for 2010 season!
I don't want to say they are trouble prone, just that when they do wear out and eventually they do that the failure mode means you notice it immediately or engine damage is likely.
I don't want to say they are trouble prone, just that when they do wear out and eventually they do that the failure mode means you notice it immediately or engine damage is likely.
yes....the single best mod for a lt1 is ewp....
ive had a mechanical completely strip the teeth off the drive gear and instantly overheat...so its a tossup about the failure...i can say ive had 2 mechanicals fail and no electrics...
then again ive never had an opti fail in 4 years and about 6 cars
__________________ LATE MODEL PERFORMANCE
94 Artic White A4 Z...The Toy | 95 Polo Green 6 Speed/99 NBM S10...The Daily's | 1994 Polo Green Z, cam only toy
Sold...1998 Black Z, 1999 NBM Z, 1999 Red Z, 2000 NMB Z, 1994 Black Z, 1996 Polo Green Formula, 1996 Artic White Formy, 1999 White S10
I dont mind having to pull the front cover if I have to, dont really want to but oh well. I just wish I had my heads already so I could do it all at once. Just need to pick up the cam from a friend. Then just a ported intake and 58mm tb and a tune will finish it up.
I recently switched over to a CSR EWP and recommend the conversion. The reliability factor was something I considered because my car is a daily but I still chose to because the benefits are still there. There is risk with any part that it will fail sudden with damage as a result. If you wire it properly you can wire in fail-safes and warning systems to make it as pain-free as possible if it does fail.
Worth it for extra power, yes it is, plus sitting in traffic it keeps the engine cooler since it's a constant flow rate and not progressive like the mechanical. Also if one should fail they are easy to replace. Just unbolt it from the housing and put on a new one, literally takes like 20 minutes as opposed to a mechanical that take a good couple couple of hours to unbolt everything clean and install gaskets, refill coolant, etc.
It does have it's downside if you don't have the light, which I do not. It's a pain always looking at the temp gauge. But I like the few extra ponies and the fact your taking some load off that front cam bearing.
__________________ 94Z28, full bolt-ons, LE heads and 222/226 Joe O. cam, Wolfe CM 6-point, Nitro Daves plate kit (140 shot), Yank SS3600, 3.73s, Bogart wheels, MT tires. 11.88 @114mph NA, 10.75 @ 125mph juiced w/factory shortblock, trans, and 10 bolt.
Is a EWP Really worth it?? 
You should notice a difference.
94Z28, full bolt-ons, LE heads and 222/226 Joe O. cam, Wolfe CM 6-point, Nitro Daves plate kit (140 shot), Yank SS3600, 3.73s, Bogart wheels, MT tires. 11.88 @114mph NA, 10.75 @ 125mph juiced w/factory shortblock, trans, and 10 bolt. 
