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Old 08-12-2008, 10:59 PM   #1
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Default My T56 Conversion..

MY T56 CONVERSION

Here is a thread of my work. I took all my posts that have pictures and info in them, and put them here in the beginning so they can be seen all at once.

Harness Wiring

First thing that was done was re-wiring the Harness for the T56 Transmission. I'm used the same Harness that I built to put the 402 LQ4/L92 Stroker Engine in my Car.

In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except one wire that goes to the PCM(I left the Torque Convertor Clutch Signal wire, you will need this eventually for the Reverse Lockout Signal), and also leave the pink power wire that powers the Solenoids for the 4L60E Transmission. To find the power wire, trace the pink wires in the 4L60E Transmission Connector, the wire will go through the Harness and eventually to the Connectors on the Fender. This is the same for the LT1 Harness also. You will need this wire to power the Reverse Lights, and the Reverse Lockout Connector.

Reverse Lights:
Start with an open Pin on the Harness Connectors that plug into the ones under the Dash. Make sure that on the Car side of the Connector it's also one that is open. Wire that pin, and then wire it through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green(non power wire) on the Connector. It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length..try to use my pic to judge it, it's got a brown Connector. I placed it about 6" down from the branch of wiring in the Harness that goes to the Transmission, made it about 12" in length. This will make your Reverse Lights work properly.

Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the green wire(non-power wire) from the Connector and connect it to the one wire that you left in the Harness from when you stripped out all the Auto stuff(not the power wire, the one that I was referring to above to leave going to the PCM), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44. This will make the Reverse Lockout function like it's factory when the Car is tuned for it.

Skip Shift: I didn't bother with this because I removed it from the Transmission.

If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the power one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.

Basically I removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed the Connectors for T56 Reverse Lockout, and T56 Reverse Lights. The VSS(Speed Sensor) stayed the same.
This is the Harness after I got done with it..


Interior Wiring

Basically with the Interior Wiring I removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed several things for the T56 Wiring. I wired the Reverse Lights, installed a Neutral Safety Switch for the T56, and I re-wired the Pedal Switches to dis-engage the Cruise Control as well.
Some of the wires in the Car will be power wires and they must be properly capped off if they are not removed.

Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch on the Shifter(Lime Green wire in the pic) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on the same pin that you did on the Engine Harness side.

Neutral Safety Switch:
I installed a Relay onto the Starter Wire coming from the Ignition Switch, I made it so it's activated with the Neutral Safety Switch on the Clutch Pedal. Basically when the Pedal is pushed in, the Relay activates and allows the Start Signal to go to the Starter and turn the Car on. I wired it to where the Relay is only energized with the Key in the START Position, not the RUN Position, that way the Relay doesn't energize everytime I push the Clutch in.

Cruise Dis-engage Switch on Clutch Petal:
There are 2 Switches on the Brake Pedal in these cars..one of the Switches has 2 Connectors going to it, the other has 1. The Switch with the 2 Connectors is for the Brake Lights(3-Wire Connector closest to Pedals), and for the Convertor Lock/Unlock. The smaller single-Connector Switch is used for the Cruise Control dis-engage.
What I did was move the smaller Switch over to the Clutch Petal, then I cut the Convertor Switch Wiring and wired that switch into the Cruise Control Switch wiring. Now what used to be the Convertor Lock/Unlock is now the Cruise Disengage on the Brake Petal. Since the car is now a Standard, this opens up this option, and it works like it did from the factory. For it to work right, both Switch Connectors must be wired in series with each other on the Cruise Control Circuit.

This is the Wiring that I did in the Interior..

Removed the Shifter and found the Reverse Wire, I ran that to the passenger's side into the Harness. It's the Lime Green Wire incase you guys can't see it.

A big spider web of wiring that I had to sort through. I cut out the un-used ones.

The wiring all done and laid into it's spot.


I wired in an Ignition Hot, Ground, and spliced off of the Tach wire for my Shift Light. I got those wires setup so all I had to do is mount the Light and connect it in.
This is where I mounted it.


Here is the cut for the T56 Shifter..

This is marking off the cut for the Shifter Hole. I already cut and removed the piece of metal that the Auto Shifter bolts to..

This is lining up a Shifter Boot I got just to test fit it after the hole was cut, and to make sure everything was good. I have the normal T56 one now, didn't have it at the time.

This is the hole finished up and painted to prevent rust..


Here is the spot marked for the Slave Cylinder..


I took apart the Master Cylinder Assembly and seperated from it the line that goes to the Slave Cylinder. The reason I did this was to do the LS1 "Drill Mod", which gets rid of the factory restriction in the line.
Here is a before & after pic..


After that I re-assembled it and started the install of the Master Cylinder.
First thing I did was make the cut in the Fire Wall..then with a little work and moving around the Brake Booster, the Master Cylinder and the U-bolt went in..

After that was done, I lined everything up and put in the LS1 T56 Petals..

Once I got them all bolted in I installed the Fluid Resivoir..


And that is pretty much how the Car is sitting now, the only thing left is to install the Pilot Bushing, Clutch Kit & Flywheel, T56 Transmission, Shifter & Knob. Then once it's driveable, I need to get it Tuned to adjust things for the T56 setup.

I have 3.89 Gears for it, but for now I'm keeping my 3.50 Gears in the back.. it's going to rip people up on the highway with them.

Here is a pic of the Custom Center Console Cover I made for my Car..


Since I didn't install the Skip Shift into the Harness and I have no intentions on making that work, I'm deleting it off of the Transmission as well.

This is the Plug that I made to go in the place of the CAGS Solenoid on the T56 Transmission..


And here is the T56..


Here is a vid of me driving it..
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BUILT T56 6spd|TEXTRALIA OZ 700|B&M RIPPER|MOSER 9 INCH|EIBACH PRO KIT|SLP BILSTEIN SHOCKS

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Old 08-12-2008, 11:18 PM   #2
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Very clean merv, too bad all these nice cars coming togeather are too far away for me to see. But very nice, and those 3.89s are going to be real nice with the 402 and a 6 speed.
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Old 08-12-2008, 11:42 PM   #3
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I just wish I had the facilities and skills to do that.
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:27 AM   #4
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nice work
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:33 AM   #5
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damn nice...cleared up some answers i had for converting my A4
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:34 AM   #6
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Sweet job with the wires! I would look at that and be like WTF where do I start???LOL!
Hey Merv Im new here can you fill me in on why your going to Iraq????? If your in the military you just moved up 10 notches in my book.
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad_tx_Z28 View Post
damn nice...cleared up some answers i had for converting my A4
Yeah, I think there may be an M6 In my Firehawks future also.
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AChotrod View Post
If your in the military you just moved up 10 notches in my book.
Mine also, I really appreciate the service.

Someone has a quote I really like in there sig, cant remember who....

"America isnt at war, the Army/Navy/Air Force/Marines are at war. Your at home or at the mall. Tell all your liberal friends that, because I dont have any."
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Old 08-13-2008, 08:36 AM   #9
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Thanks guys.

I'm Active Duty Air Force, my job is a Fire Fighter. It's in my Sig pic as well..lol

I'm going over to Iraq until the beginning of Feb, this will be my third tour. I was in Kir Kuk, Iraq sumer '04, and Baghdad International Air Port, summer '06.

Quote:
Originally Posted by landstuhltaylor View Post
I just wish I had the facilities and skills to do that.
It's just in the Garage bro.. as far as the skills.. it's just lining up wires and putting stuff together.
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Old 08-13-2008, 08:43 AM   #10
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i have a friend thats in the airforce thats leaving out on the 20th...he wont be back until feb either. You guys be safe over there!
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Old 08-13-2008, 08:49 AM   #11
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^^What questions do you have about converting it..
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Old 08-13-2008, 09:01 AM   #12
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basicly i suck at wiring...the mechanical stuff i have no problem with...i kinda wish there was a manual on how to swap them...lol
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Old 08-13-2008, 09:23 AM   #13
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It's kinda easy really..not so easy to explain unless you are looking right at it. My post at the top has some good info, since I converted from an A4 Harness.
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BUILT T56 6spd|TEXTRALIA OZ 700|B&M RIPPER|MOSER 9 INCH|EIBACH PRO KIT|SLP BILSTEIN SHOCKS

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Old 08-13-2008, 09:45 AM   #14
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Is all this really necessary? My mechanic has converted many A4 to M6 and never pulled the wiring nor did any splicing, Reverse lights work, the only thing that was wired was the reverse lock out, I had a switch on the console for the manual lock up for the converter so I wired it there. Just wondering because I have read people say that you need a complete harness from a 6 speed, Not so, even with the PCM, I just flashed it to a M6..
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Old 08-13-2008, 09:52 AM   #15
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You don't need a M6 harness..I pretty much built one though..lol

I know what your talking about with your guy..that can be done as well. He just used the Reverse Light wire and the hot wire next to it and ran that to the T56 Connector, probably did it through where the Shifter comes through the Floor. Reverse Lockout can be done pretty much the same way.

I don't like wiring like that..I wanted it setup like the Factory.

Me personally I don't want to have to hit a switch to put it in Reverse, I want to be able to use that gear as it's designed from the factory. It wasn't that hard to do..
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:24 AM   #16
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Merv is just anal like some of us, and it had to be done the perfect way

Same way I would have done it, even if it dident ACTUALLY have to be done. Besides, its easier to find shit now and it looks clean as hell!
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:44 AM   #17
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When I did my swap I didnt mess with any of the a4 wiring except for the nuetral safty switch but I already had the m6 harness and my reverse seems to work fine.
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_merv View Post
You don't need a M6 harness..I pretty much built one though..lol

I know what your talking about with your guy..that can be done as well. He just used the Reverse Light wire and the hot wire next to it and ran that to the T56 Connector, probably did it through where the Shifter comes through the Floor. Reverse Lockout can be done pretty much the same way.

I don't like wiring like that..I wanted it setup like the Factory.

Me personally I don't want to have to hit a switch to put it in Reverse, I want to be able to use that gear as it's designed from the factory. It wasn't that hard to do..
yea I would of liked it like the factory but I already had the switch there so I figured I would put it to some use...
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Old 08-13-2008, 11:30 AM   #19
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Looking clean and thorough like usual. Have fun when you get back and be safe.
Are you going to the 3.90's from the stock 3.23s? Should be a blast.
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:35 PM   #20
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^^I have 3.50's setup in the Moser 9" so I could play with the Auto a little more. I'm leaving them in it. That and I can still get 25+mpg with the 6th Gear.
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CAR WEIGHT: appx. 3325lbs 408ci LQ4/L92 STROKER with 3" X-PIPE & TRUE DUALS
BUILT T56 6spd|TEXTRALIA OZ 700|B&M RIPPER|MOSER 9 INCH|EIBACH PRO KIT|SLP BILSTEIN SHOCKS

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