Here is a thread on my Battery Relocation. I took all my posts throughout this thread that have progress pics, and put them here at the beginning so it would be easier to see.
To start I got ahold of a Cable from an Amp Kit, but after researching that and finding out that basically that wouldn't be good enough, I changed it to some 4GA Welding Cable.
I have it here to the Distro Block and it works perfectly.
Here's the Battery mounted in the Car..I still have to get it in a box, but this is the basic setup.
I also wired in a Jumper off of the Ground so it hits both the Chassis and the Frame Rails..
Here it is finished..I made the box for it. I now have a 2ga Cable where the braided strap is in the pic here, that was there for testing purposes..
Here's what I did to fill in the empty Battery spot in the Engine Bay.
This came from a S-10. I also relocated that ground on the Strut Bolt to the Frame Rail where the stock Heater Core Lines bolted to..
You MIGHT want to switch to 'real' wire later on, with thicker gauge strands than what those audio power cables seem to offer. Probably isn't needed, but if factory people do it, and aftermarket people do it, there must be some reasoning behind it
That's the new plastic Intake LT1.. you've never heard of it?
I'm going to see how long that wire holds up.. from what a few people have said, it's actually the finer wire that works better.. it's transfers the current better.
From what some people have been saying, I'm going to get something else..
Here's the start..
Did the wiring under the Hood. I used some 6ga Wire from an Amp Kit..that's all I could find around here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_merv
I'm going to see how long that wire holds up.. from what a few people have said, it's actually the finer wire that works better.. it's transfers the current better.
This is what I was thinking about..
The only real strain through that Wire is when the Battery is getting the hit when I first start the Car. After that and once it's running, the Alternator is pretty much running everything. As far as accessories go, I don't really have anything except the Engine, Headlights, and 2 door Speakers with the Radio.
I'm going to make the Ground/Neg terminal off of the Battery as short as possible and stick it pretty much on the frame of the Chassis in the back area. I have an extra braided Grounding strap for that already.
I took it out and I'm going to see what else I can find..I don't want to put out my own car..lol
damn merv. i love how when you mod your car, you always do a write up on it. It really helps us other F-body guys out when we decide to do something similar! Thanks!
Did you put a pull switch in the back on the battery to cut the power? I was thinking about putting my battery in the back too but didn't know what the tracks would be like if I didn't have the exterior switch in the back thru the bumper.
__________________ 2000 t/a stock bottom end, th400, 12 bolt, small shot, and still more in it
Actually using 2 or 0 guage would be best. Large guage wire (assuming the wire has a high strand count and a good OFC rating) allows the current to flow much easier. Current and a good ground are the main objectives of a good working trunk mount system. If your getting clickity, click you have additional problems to work out of your system. BTW, good job on your install
I used 2 ga. Positive wire to the starter. 0 ga. For the ground in the rear to the seatbelt bolt. I tested it and I am getting a good ground. Then I have a 2 ga. Ground from the motor to subframe and a 2 ga. From motor to body. Plus the original ground for the battery in the front is grounded. I used like 18 ft I think and now I think I am going to go back with 0 ga. For the positive. I was just saying 4 ga may not be enough.
You don't want your Neg Wire to the Chassis to be more than 24" long.. I was reading that somewhere. I'm using a 12" Grounding Strap for the Neg Terminal.
Tomorrow I'm putting in the Battery. A friend of mine has a Coolant overflow Resivoir out of a S-10 laying around his shop, I'm using that to replace what was under the Battery, it will fill in that hole nicely..
Quote:
Originally Posted by pddye
Did you put a pull switch in the back on the battery to cut the power? I was thinking about putting my battery in the back too but didn't know what the tracks would be like if I didn't have the exterior switch in the back thru the bumper.
I don't see that being a problem unless you are actually running in sanctioned classes for competition.. but I could be wrong..
At KCIR they told me that you only have to have the cut off switch if your racing for NHRA points. Otherwise they will let it slide. But that was before the new ownership.
Battery Relocation..Progress Thread 
