When getting a new clutch kit and say new flywheel and everything wouldnt the manufactors know for certain if a shim is needed? Like when i do my clutch im getting a new flywheel and everything else that is normaly changed. Thanks
Good information. Although, there is an element that needs to be added. That is the spring rate of the pressure plate fingers & whether or not the manufaturer has built in some forgiveness in the finger travel to make up for spacing errors. Agreed, that as a rule of thumb, a pre-gap is the correct solution. It is not always true that set-ups w/ no shim & an 1/8" interferance into the clutch fingers automatically results in an incorrect clutch release that could lead to pre-mature clutch failure.
Am not trying to start an arguement here. Am simply stating that I have found an element of releif on some clutches that is in the area of 1/8" travel into the fingers. So, guys who's slave cylinder presses into the clutch fingers, even after the shim is removed, may not have issues up to 1/8". Call the manufacturer to confirm.
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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So is the shim for the inconsistency of the manufactoring of the clutch itself? I dont understand how getting all new stuff would result in measuring anything... sorry i dont know alot about this but i plan on doing my clutch with a few buddys.
It seems that Tick Performance and SNL seem to be really hot right now. I have read a lot of good things about both recently. I was going 6speed inc and an LS7 clutch. After reading posts I think a Tick/SNL combo will be much better.
3rd gear is junk(tick)and a H/C/I or turbo and will need a clutch(SNL) is the plan for the winter. I will getting a hold of you guys.
dumb question...do i need to shim the clutch set up in my LT1 car?
__________________ 1995 Firebird Formula A3- Th350, 4k Yank stall, Bolt ons, Suspension, 125 NX Kit and a 2860 Race Weight-
11.22@120
H/C/Nitrous LS1 in the works...hoping for 10.2x
Project 11sec gutted Formula here http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...d-formula.html
Here is another thing to check which is very important.
When ussing the same slave but changing the bearing --make sure you remove ALL of the old bearing.Ussually there is a spacer of sorts that will be left behind from the old bearing -inside the slave.Just need a small screwdriver to fish it out.If left in there it is almost 1/8" spacer.
__________________ 1995 Firebird Formula A3- Th350, 4k Yank stall, Bolt ons, Suspension, 125 NX Kit and a 2860 Race Weight-
11.22@120
H/C/Nitrous LS1 in the works...hoping for 10.2x
Project 11sec gutted Formula here http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...d-formula.html
my spec clutch just went because the installer did not shim it. i am willing to bet all the spec failures on this board are due to the same problem. good info guys! just want you to know i'm picking up my car tomorrow and will be the first time i drive my car with teh new Tick Master Cylinder
Sweet! Can't wait to hear your results. Just make sure that the shop has your instructions for adjustment! If the kit isn't adjusted correctly using our instructions, it isn't going to do as well as it could.
Quote:
Originally Posted by on2
Anybody have experience with the Exedy Hypersingle?
No firsthand experience here. Measure to be sure!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tunedportcj5
Can someone also explain why an adjustable Master is needed? And also explain the proper way of setting one up?
Our adjustable master is a necessary upgrade because the stock hydraulic system is garbage. These cars (especially C5 Vettes) are slow to shift and never efficient in the upper RPMs. This is even more apparent when using a beefy aftermarket clutch.
Our kit is different from the rest of the industry in that we use a Tilton Master Cylinder and our kit includes an unrestricted, heat wrapped line as well. If you ever get a chance to drive a car with our kit installed - DO IT! The difference is completely night & day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pitbull14218
When getting a new clutch kit and say new flywheel and everything wouldnt the manufactors know for certain if a shim is needed? Like when i do my clutch im getting a new flywheel and everything else that is normaly changed. Thanks
Most manufacturers do know, but if you want to be 100% sure - measure for yourself!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
what about mcloed twin disk.
No personal experience here. Break out the measuring stick.
Here is another thing to check which is very important.
When ussing the same slave but changing the bearing --make sure you remove ALL of the old bearing.Ussually there is a spacer of sorts that will be left behind from the old bearing -inside the slave.Just need a small screwdriver to fish it out.If left in there it is almost 1/8" spacer.
Excellent point. Thank-you
__________________ LSX powered MUNSTER.....Mod's list? 5 lbs per HP with a sh!t load of low end torque...Friend to all car people...Thanks LS1Tech
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It seems that Tick Performance and SNL seem to be really hot right now. I have read a lot of good things about both recently. I was going 6speed inc and an LS7 clutch. After reading posts I think a Tick/SNL combo will be much better.
3rd gear is junk(tick)and a H/C/I or turbo and will need a clutch(SNL) is the plan for the winter. I will getting a hold of you guys.
Best of luck and yes this should be a sticky.
Thanks man!
This is a prime example of businesses that are customer service oriented, it shows!
Keep us posted on what you need, we'll get you squared away!
__________________ Owner/Operator of SNL Performance/Monster Clutch Co. Please do not send me pm's, email me at steve@monsterclutch.com!!!! We do it all! Nitrous, motor builds, turbos, superchargers, custom tunes, heads/cam installs, clutches, anything and everything!
Pricing or install questions? Email me directly at steve@snlperformance.com Visit SNL PerformanceVisit Monster Clutches
I just thiink all clutches should be made to certain specs so a shim is not required. That takes all the guess work out of installing your clutch. I have a Spec stage 2 now and I installed the shim. I only put 6,000 miles on it and it is slipping like crazy. I haven't pulled it yet so I don't no the reason. One thing I know is the instructions that came with the clutch said nothing about measuring. They said if it's an F-body to use the shim.
Thanks for sharing the info...I already know my centerforce needs a shim but it would have been great to have this info at the time...NEEDS TO BE A STICKY!
I just thiink all clutches should be made to certain specs so a shim is not required.
Agreed.
__________________ Owner/Operator of SNL Performance/Monster Clutch Co. Please do not send me pm's, email me at steve@monsterclutch.com!!!! We do it all! Nitrous, motor builds, turbos, superchargers, custom tunes, heads/cam installs, clutches, anything and everything!
Pricing or install questions? Email me directly at steve@snlperformance.com Visit SNL PerformanceVisit Monster Clutches
great info, i had a spec twin disc and it bottumed out the throw out bearing, i called up spec and they gave me a mouth full of crap, now i am tryin to sell it. $550 incase anyone wants it.
__________________ 2002 WS6 M6. Fast Toys Lid, Smooth Bellow, Jet-Hot Longtube Headers 1 3/4, Jet-Hot ORY, SLP LM1 PowerFlo, LS7 Clutch and Flywheel, Eaton Diff, Richmond 3.73's, Powerbond Underdrive Pulley,LS6 Oil Pump, LS2 Timing Chain and Sprockets, HP Tuned, Short Throw Shifter, SLP Subframe Connectors, Big thumpedy thump thump Cam
Cam only missle baby!
great info, i had a spec twin disc and it bottumed out the throw out bearing, i called up spec and they gave me a mouth full of crap, now i am tryin to sell it. $550 incase anyone wants it.
Did you talk to Jeremy? SPEC-01 here on LS1tech. He's great to work with and won't give you a mouth full of crap unless you give him one first.