Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim?

[Ksths2]

Update: I got the right flywheel and its a SLP standard weight and everything is good as far as a gap is concerned. Its .050 gap with new throw out bearing and the old shot one measures .072 gap so I'm assuming it'll break in and be perfect.
I got it all back together and the clutch engages right off the floor and its hard to shift so basically the clutch is not disengaging.... what do I do? or what is wrong? i bled it over and over and pedal still feels the same.

LSTUD what end up happening???? anyone help me please!

[Gen414]

Originally Posted by Ksths2

Update: I got the right flywheel and its a SLP standard weight and everything is good as far as a gap is concerned. Its .050 gap with new throw out bearing and the old shot one measures .072 gap so I'm assuming it'll break in and be perfect.
I got it all back together and the clutch engages right off the floor and its hard to shift so basically the clutch is not disengaging.... what do I do? or what is wrong? i bled it over and over and pedal still feels the same.

LSTUD what end up happening???? anyone help me please!

Well, I believe your measurements are wrong...especially teh tob to face of tranny one..you came up with, what 2.3xx"??

That would be BY FAR teh longest slave I have ever seen/heard of. The longest one I have measured has been @ 2.1xx, so you are talking about a slave that is @ .250 longer than any slave I have seen.

Take pics of how you measured, or go to my thread below and see actual pics of how to measure...


PICTURES of measuring for shim, and bench testing setups, good tech....

[Gen414]

Originally Posted by Ksths2

Update: I got the right flywheel and its a SLP standard weight and everything is good as far as a gap is concerned. Its .050 gap with new throw out bearing and the old shot one measures .072 gap so I'm assuming it'll break in and be perfect.
I got it all back together and the clutch engages right off the floor and its hard to shift so basically the clutch is not disengaging.... what do I do? or what is wrong? i bled it over and over and pedal still feels the same.

LSTUD what end up happening???? anyone help me please!

Also, with .050, that is TIGHT, and you would THINK that as soon as you begin to push in pedal, that it would start to disengage...

tell me this...where does your clutch pedal sit...below, at, or above teh brake pedal???

[Ksths2]

Hey Gen414, yep the pics are exactly how i measured it. I would totally agree about the gap as well the smaller the gap the better it should disengage. I will check my pedal location compared to the brake pedal tomorrow night.

Here's the latest, i drove the car a bit Saturday and i bleed it a couple more times and no change with the disengagement. Oh and it does drag a little bit doing the rev test so i parked it cuz i don't want to wear out the new clutch. i ordered the Tick adjustable master cylinder and they said it will fix my problem.
One thing i thought of is the pedal is damn hard to push in once the "dead space" is gone aka when its actually moving the pressure plate. i'm assuming this is normal for being such a stiff clutch but i'm worried that with the Tick MC that it will add 15% pedal pressure i won't be able to work the clutch without steroids.....
And i didn't mention this before but the car has a vibration from 2-3000rpm now and its not tranny or rearend related. but does seem to be magnified when moving. You can sit still and rev it and it vibrates like crazy but smooths out after 3k...... what the hell is that? i'm assuming its the clutch or flywheel out of balance? What now? Everything is aligned right using the dowels and torqued right...... i'm just hoping that everything will be fixed once i get the new master cylinder.

[Gen414]

Originally Posted by Ksths2

Hey Gen414, yep the pics are exactly how i measured it. I would totally agree about the gap as well the smaller the gap the better it should disengage. I will check my pedal location compared to the brake pedal tomorrow night.

Here's the latest, i drove the car a bit Saturday and i bleed it a couple more times and no change with the disengagement. Oh and it does drag a little bit doing the rev test so i parked it cuz i don't want to wear out the new clutch. i ordered the Tick adjustable master cylinder and they said it will fix my problem.
One thing i thought of is the pedal is damn hard to push in once the "dead space" is gone aka when its actually moving the pressure plate. i'm assuming this is normal for being such a stiff clutch but i'm worried that with the Tick MC that it will add 15% pedal pressure i won't be able to work the clutch without steroids.....
And i didn't mention this before but the car has a vibration from 2-3000rpm now and its not tranny or rearend related. but does seem to be magnified when moving. You can sit still and rev it and it vibrates like crazy but smooths out after 3k...... what the hell is that? i'm assuming its the clutch or flywheel out of balance? What now? Everything is aligned right using the dowels and torqued right...... i'm just hoping that everything will be fixed once i get the new master cylinder.

So as to not add to this thread any ...do you have a thread started? If not, start one, so we can take it up there...