Joey@Tick

iTrader: (20)

I get a ton of PMs from guys asking if their clutch setups need to be shimmed and when I suggest measuring to be sure, their first response is usually "how?" To be as helpful as I can to everyone, I'm going to try and describe the measurement process. It's tough to do without pictures, but try and follow me here:

During your next clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:

1. Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
   
2. Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.

Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.

I'm proud to announce that Tick Performance is now making the use of shims even more precise by offering THREE difference thicknesses:

• Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim (.055")
• Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim (.113")
• Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim (.180")

Since there is no way to tell which shim you'll need before measuring, it's a smart idea to keep a few on hand prior to install so you're not held up in shipping if you need one. For this reason, we offer a discounted 3 Pack:

• Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim Kit (3 Pack)

We're always in pursuit of new ways to get you guys shifting as quickly & efficiently as possible. Determining if your setup needs a shim or not is quick, easy and cheap way to ensure proper function and long life out of your next clutch.

Good luck guys!

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Joey, you guys rock!

Thanks for getting this info to customers, and, thanks for the consistent support of this community!

P.S. Monster Clutches do NOT need shims!

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the post Joey. I understand the "A" measurement, I can't visualize the "B" measurement though.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

Heres a pic, keep in mind the giant spring under the bearing is removed and the bearing is pushed as far toward the base of the slave as it will travel when actually taking your measurement:

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Awesome, thanks a lot! So "A" is for the clutch and "B" is for the slave?

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

No, the difference between "A" and "B" is the clearance required when the clutch is engaged.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, heres "A":

Lawnboy

iTrader: (54)

my spec stage 3+ didnt come with one , they forgot to put it in the box.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Good post.It is probly the #1 reason clutches prematurely wear out.
In my experiance it is needed to check on every single clutch setup.Atleast 60% of the SPEC's we do never need the shim and the burnt one's we've pulled had the shim when it wasn't needed.I like 1/8 -1/4" air gap to make room for clutch break in.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

my spec clutch just went because the installer did not shim it. i am willing to bet all the spec failures on this board are due to the same problem. good info guys! just want you to know i'm picking up my car tomorrow and will be the first time i drive my car with teh new Tick Master Cylinder

itsjustaSB

iTrader: (13)

thanks guys good info i always wondered how to tell cant belive i never put it toghter that its was that easy this is why i am always on this site you never stop learning

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

One other bit of info that should be added is something that Joey already made note of in the original post. The tob must be seated against the base of the slave when taking your measurement. Sometimes in order to do this, the bleader will need to be loosened. If the TOB won't seat even with the bleeder cracked, there could be a problem with the slave itself which could also cause clutch engagement issues and premature clutch failure. Basically you're just looking for a little gap, and Slowhawk is correct. As the clutch breaks in the gap will become a bit less and less. Too much gap however, and there will be dissengagement and shifting issues due to a dragging clutch.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

this is valuable info...sticky-worthy IMHO

Engine_HP

iTrader: (1)

so i can always find it when i need it

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Def Sticky worthy

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

Awesome info

on2

iTrader: (4)

Anybody have experience with the Exedy Hypersingle?

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I think you misunderstood my post. "A" is the measurement of the clutch, "B" is the measurement of the slave. With those numbers you find out what size shim, if any, is needed.

Definately make this a sticky.

Just what I thought!

tunedportcj5

iTrader: (18)

Awesome info guys - Thanks!

Here is some info from RAM's site on shimming. I have a dual disc I am about to install but I need to measure for the correct shim.

Where can we get a set of shims? I don't want to have the driveline all torn down and then have to order up some shims.. lol

http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/Tech...%20Bearing.jpg

tunedportcj5

iTrader: (18)

Can someone also explain why an adjustable Master is needed? And also explain the proper way of setting one up?