I m not sure if you were understanding my post. The issue is with the threads on the short stick, and the threads on the shift knob...as posted on the ws6store states its threads are compatible with hurst knobs & stock knob, i have both and tried them both yet it seems the short stick is coarse thread and the knob is fine thread.... im not bashing the ws6store, i order from them often.
mine fits good, but its an aftermarket hurst, not a factory hurst, only thing, the know doesnt face the dircetion its suppost to, guess ill have to put something in the shift knob or use lock tite.
__________________ 1988 Trans am GTA 02 ls1/t56
suspension, brakes, bolt ons Fquick page
primer grey now...Pic is from Forza 3
I'm running a stage III lol Wanted to make SURE... to not have any problems and I don't. The only times my shift quality suffers is when my clutch fluid is dirty.
I tried a mcleod adjustable before and had many problems due to the clutch fluid heating up. I figured out it was because of my headers and the mc was metal.
I was interested in the tick piece and asked them many detailed questions about it and they coped and attitude with me thinking I was downplaying their product. I asked them what made theirs better than the mcleod and they got pissed.
As far as I'm concerned, they're both metal and I don't have a good enough reason to believe it would do better than the mcleod or stocker.
My stock one is doing great with my setup as of now. Its plastic and way better than most people give it credit for.
I really try not to be the band wagon type because lots of times there's this big group of people who will always believe in anything as long as its new and I'm not one of those people. Remember those textralia clutches? Well everybody was acting like they're blameless and now all kinds of people are having issues out of them. Lots of people were the same way about the ls7 clutch too, but after my experiences with two ls6 clutches I figures it may not be that much better. I decided to give "little known" southbend a chance and let me tell you, their customer service was WAY more helpful AND professional than textralias.
So I'm actually happy with stock hydraulics. How about that? lol
I learned they fail mainly due to too much heat. Excessive heat can come from a few reasons. My situations were the headers heating up the the mcleod mc first. Also it was under clutching my car and during power shifts the clutch was slipping way too much and ended up popping several slave cylinders.
So again, I've got a bad ass clutch and stock hydraulics and I'm happy with it.
That's my path and learning history with this stuff lol
Hey If you found the formula that works for you... your driving experience will be much more enjoyable.
Trust me the Tick is a nice piece. It's basically a Tilton master was a custom aluminum billet base. Tick takes alot pride in what they do, so they might have felt a little on the defensive. I've talked to Joey before, he's a good guy.
He sounds like Dale Earnhardt Jr.
The things that most don't realize about master cylinders is that they are not a cure all for worn trannies, clutches or improper installation.
Tick had a group buy a while back. I bought into it and later cancelled my order because the wait time would have been to long. I ended up buying one from someone that had received it allready, so I didn't have to wait.
Joey was real cool about the refund and cancellation.
The LS6 and LS7 clutches are two different animals... so to speak.
LS7 is a better clutch. The reason so many have problems with them is that the stock hydraulics have a harder time keeping up with the pressure required to engage and disengage. I had mine working with new stock hydraulics but it's much better with the Tick m/c.
After much trial and error with a previous LS6 clutch and Spec Stage I ... I found a formula that works for me.
Next clutch, I think I will try a South Bend Stage II or III.
About 13,000 Too bad I can't say the same about the first slave cylinder that went in at the same time lol
My clutch is rated to like 638ft/lb too! I believe the 1-5% of slip I ever get is due to the restriction in my mc that I need to drill out. The only way I get that little bit of slip is with wot shifting and I just happen to have some grip in my tires(only on a hot summer day) hahaha The fluid in the mc just can't move fast enough so one of these days I'll go ahead and drill it out.
You sound very wise man lol so I may give the tick mc a chance one of these days. Do you have long tubes?
13,000 is good! I'm going with a stage II or III next time.
The drill mod might be a good idea to try first before shelling out $300.00 clams. Especially in this economy.
No I don't even have headers because I figured long tubes or bust.
I just can't justify spending for shorttubes. Allthough there is member on here selling nice set of 50 state legal JBA stainless for $350.00 shipped.
Must admit I was tempted. Got to love our emission laws here.
One thing I've read about before is, headers getting the brakelines hot ???
Has that been an issue for you ? What longtubes are you running ?
The Tick has a insulated jacket on the brakeline but I think it would melt on hot exhaust. I have my brakeline routed behind that little sheet metal shield.
A wiseman ? Hey I like that ... I'm just old ... @ 46 years.
13,000 is good! I'm going with a stage II or III next time.
The drill mod might be a good idea to try first before shelling out $300.00 clams. Especially in this economy.
No I don't even have headers because I figured long tubes or bust.
I just can't justify spending for shorttubes. Allthough there is member on here selling nice set of 50 state legal JBA stainless for $350.00 shipped.
Must admit I was tempted. Got to love our emission laws here.
One thing I've read about before is, headers getting the brakelines hot ???
Has that been an issue for you ? What longtubes are you running ?
The Tick has a insulated jacket on the brakeline but I think it would melt on hot exhaust. I have my brakeline routed behind that little sheet metal shield.
A wiseman ? Hey I like that ... I'm just old ... @ 46 years.
.
hahaha, I forgot about calis emissions laws.
I do have my clutch fluid line behind that heat shield, but with that metal mc I still caught hell. As a matter of fact I kept the rubber off of another stock mc that I had and I have two of those rubber sleeves on my line right now.
Let me tell you, the heat from the headers affects the mc more than the line itself. I used to wrap my line with anything I could think of and it helped to an extent. Once I put a stock mc back in high rpm shifting got way better.
I just think with my ceramic coated pacesetter long tubes I'd be in the same boat with the tick and out of $300. IMO I think long tubes and metal mcs don't get along. Maybe it wouldn't be so back since the tick is aluminum, but lol I don't want to risk it.
Through all my trial and error I learned its better to keep an eye on my clutch fluid and use a plastic mc with my long tubes.
Also if you're talking about brake lines brake lines? No never had a problem with my brakes.
I do have my clutch fluid line behind that heat shield, but with that metal mc I still caught hell. As a matter of fact I kept the rubber off of another stock mc that I had and I have two of those rubber sleeves on my line right now.
Let me tell you, the heat from the headers affects the mc more than the line itself. I used to wrap my line with anything I could think of and it helped to an extent. Once I put a stock mc back in high rpm shifting got way better.
I just think with my ceramic coated pacesetter long tubes I'd be in the same boat with the tick and out of $300. IMO I think long tubes and metal mcs don't get along. Maybe it wouldn't be so back since the tick is aluminum, but lol I don't want to risk it.
Through all my trial and error I learned its better to keep an eye on my clutch fluid and use a plastic mc with my long tubes.
Also if you're talking about brake lines brake lines? No never had a problem with my brakes.
Interesting ... You learn something new everyday.
Ain't that a son-of-a-gun ... If I move out of state and get longtubes...
I may get hot brake fluid issues. LOL
The Tick body is aluminum but the Tilton m/c itself is metal.
I would think heat issues might be even worse with a metal m/c if you didn't have ceramic coating on your longtubes.
One thing I can say about the Tick-Tilton is that it pushes a lot more fluid than the stock m/c.
That might work well with the drill mod. At the same time I was also wondering if making it adjustable would wear it out faster. I can't say, I've never done this. Never-the-less I think it's a cool write-up.
I adjusted mine 1000x and it was only to figure out there was only one right location and that was near stock. If its set to engage too low, its too low and high rpm shifting will def suck. If its set too high, high rpm shifting will be ok, but normal driving will suck because it'll all of a sudden grab at the last milimeter of travel on release lol Also with the mc set too high I believe you run a great risk of over extending the slave and popping it.
I figure with the way mine is doing right now I will at most do the drill mod and keep running southbend clutches. My setup to me feels just as good as what people give textralias credit for.
I'm sure you know about the gmmg cars too, right? I asked matt, the owner, about the hydraulics on those cars and he said their running stock too I figured if they're running lt headers, plus 600hp+ engines, then stock hydros must been good enough for my car too! I know they have better clutches too so I decided to go back to stock hydros and a different than gmmg, but better than stock clutch.
GMMG cars are awesome. I wonder what clutches they normally use ?
I think the Southbend DXD clutch uses the Luk pressure plate.
I talked to Andy at Southbend and that's what he told me.
Plus if you look at the pictures in the link about the member with the Southbend, it's looks like a Luk pressure plate.
That may be a good reason for Southbends excellent funtionallity.
The stock hydraulics were designed to work with a certain pressure
and geometry. I see so many problems with other aftermarket clutches
and I sometimes think the stock hydraulics can't keep up. Plus the stack
height measurement needs to be correct.
It seems that some F body owners assume the Luk is a bad pressure
because it's OEM when in fact it has more pressure than most will ever need.
What Southbend does is use better friction materials on thier disc.
I also think that's why you read about alot of LS7 clutches with the low peddle story. The stock LS1 or LS6 hydraulics were not designed for that much pressure.
Textralia is a cool name, but very expensive. Especially when they don't seem to last.
Another story about the stock hydraulics... You may be aware of this...
You notice how there is upgraded hydraulics for 2001+ F-bodies ?
This is because the 2001+ F-bodies had the C5 Z06 clutch with a little more
pressure than the pre 2001 LS1 clutch. Now the stock replacement for all F-bodies is the C5 Z06 clutch which requires you to upgrade the hydraulics.
Now everyone likes the Monster clutch, most seem to be happy with those.
There's another story to that however...
gmmg cars use spec but I've heard bad about them too. Around chattanooga tn they've got a bad rep. I don't like how they need shims to have to fit on some cars.
If the monster clutches are anything like SBs then they're good. What's the other story on monster clutches?
When you get your southbend make sure to get the cryo treatment. I did and I have a feeling it is contributing to my clutches lifespan like they said it would
I think I'll get the stage III and cryo. Hopefully that will be in a while.
The Monsters are completely different than the mighty Southbend.
I had a bad experience with the Spec stage I.
Most seem to be happy with the Spec Stage 3+.
Basically from a very reliable source, The Monster guy used to work with the guy at Texas Drive Performance or TDP. TDP still has thier own line of clutches under the name of " Diamond Clutches. " The guy from Monster left TDP and started his own line. I'm not sure if they're the same or not other than the paint. Based on what I was told, the Diamond and Monster is the same but the Monster comes packed in a wood crate and is much more expensive. Diamond clutches were actually around before Monster.
I was also told from this reliable source that Monster was using the same flywheels that can be bought on ebay.
The guy at TDP is also a sponsor here. He is a really good honest guy. I've dealt with him alot and even sent LS1tech members from Texas to TDP.
I get nothing out of it other than helping LS1Tech members.
It's just that Jason at TDP is so busy doing F-body, Vette tranny rebuilds and clutch changeouts, he just doesn't have the time to spend on here.
Plus he didn't want to bash and make a big deal about the whole affair.
Between the Monster and Diamond, I'll take the Diamond but like I said ...
when the time comes again ... Southbend DXD for me.
I haven't dynoed my car yet. I figure somewhere around 360 to 380 rwhp.
If I had a Racetronics pump, bigger injectors, long tubes and a dyno tune that would yield some nice gains.
i wont bash on a store i havent purchased from...thats just a shitty thing to do...however i have my pro 5.0 and it has a shorter stick..i put on a 50th anniversary shifter ball i got off ebay that is black and gold and i love it..
__________________ 346 Forged bottom end,P&P 241's, Lunati cam, Ram VDS Pkg, Stage 2 TICK PERFORMANCE T56, moser 12 bolt...sooon #'s and 200 shot
old times with just exhaust and Dr's..
12.56 @ 110 - 1.85 60ft
i wont bash on a store i havent purchased from...thats just a shitty thing to do...however i have my pro 5.0 and it has a shorter stick..i put on a 50th anniversary shifter ball i got off ebay that is black and gold and i love it..
I've seen the first part with the Segway scooter guy. lol
That is some precision control. Nice Crawford STI too.
My buddy in Michigan has an 06 STI fairly built.
I had a 2005 Evo for two years, my heart is really with F-bodies and Vettes.
But that was a majorly cool video !
I wonder how much faster the new G37 and 370Z are as opposed to the
old G35 and 350Z... haven't researched it. For what they're asking for those, I'll take a new Camaro SS or C6 Vette anyday.
I m not sure if you were understanding my post. The issue is with the threads on the short stick, and the threads on the shift knob...as posted on the ws6store states its threads are compatible with hurst knobs & stock knob, i have both and tried them both yet it seems the short stick is coarse thread and the knob is fine thread.... im not bashing the ws6store, i order from them often.
Too bad I can't say the same about the first slave cylinder that went in at the same time lol
I figured if they're running lt headers, plus 600hp+ engines, then stock hydros must been good enough for my car too! I know they have better clutches too so I decided to go back to stock hydros and a different than gmmg, but better than stock clutch.
