__________________ Owner/Operator of SNL Performance/Monster Clutch Co. Please do not send me pm's, email me at steve@monsterclutch.com!!!! We do it all! Nitrous, motor builds, turbos, superchargers, custom tunes, heads/cam installs, clutches, anything and everything!
Pricing or install questions? Email me directly at steve@snlperformance.com Visit SNL PerformanceVisit Monster Clutches
Thanks, man! Yeah, everyone was real friendly and helpful when I called up and the recommendation to replace the master was right. I never ended up needing to vacuum bleed it.
The clutch feels great so far. Couple hundred more miles until I go balls to the wall, but for everyday driving it's been great. I'll try to finish the break in tomorrow and then maybe get a couple videos of it this weekend
__________________ Red 2002 Z28: Not Stock
Best ET: Too slow for the mods to list it here.
Thanks, man! Yeah, everyone was real friendly and helpful when I called up and the recommendation to replace the master was right. I never ended up needing to vacuum bleed it.
The clutch feels great so far. Couple hundred more miles until I go balls to the wall, but for everyday driving it's been great. I'll try to finish the break in tomorrow and then maybe get a couple videos of it this weekend
Outstanding!
Let me know if you need anything else!
__________________ Owner/Operator of SNL Performance/Monster Clutch Co. Please do not send me pm's, email me at steve@monsterclutch.com!!!! We do it all! Nitrous, motor builds, turbos, superchargers, custom tunes, heads/cam installs, clutches, anything and everything!
Pricing or install questions? Email me directly at steve@snlperformance.com Visit SNL PerformanceVisit Monster Clutches
Well, I finally got a chance to get on it a bit today after checking everything over. It seemed ok at first, but when I try to powershift the pedal sticks to the floor and it just bounces off the limiter. When I shift pretty fast, but normally (let off the gas) it seems fine...maybe a very slight hesitate for the pedal to come back, but so slight that it's hard to tell. Anyone have any ideas? Sound like a bleeding problem or a pedal adustment problem maybe?
Thanks!
__________________ Red 2002 Z28: Not Stock
Best ET: Too slow for the mods to list it here.
I had the EXACT same problem with my stage 3, i went through 3 bottles of brake fluid bleeding and even pulled it apart and put in a new slave. I spent 3 days bleeding the damn thing and I got it to power shift 1 time. Then i took a trip home and just as you stated i would have to let off the throttle just a tad to shift at WOT. I ended up blowing up the ls1 that night and decided in converting to an auto.
But what we did to get it to power shift was drill out the breather hole in the reservoir a little bit. Then get a very small cone shape adapter that fits on the end of an air compressor nozzle. Then open the bleeder, stick the nozzle in the cap and compress the fluid through the slave making sure to not let the reservoir run dry and then close the slave. This will obviously require 2 people. If you have air in the slave, its almost an act of god to get it out. This is why SNL uses an expensive ass pressure bleeder to install all their clutches.
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
Bled it a bit and the pedal still stuck. My brother could actually watch it come back slowly.
Currently using a mighty vac to bleed it. Letting it sit with vacuum to it and getting some decent air out of it. I go out every few minutes and pump the pedal slowly a few times. I'll test drive it in a little bit and see how it feels.
__________________ Red 2002 Z28: Not Stock
Best ET: Too slow for the mods to list it here.
Bled it a bit and the pedal still stuck. My brother could actually watch it come back slowly.
Currently using a mighty vac to bleed it. Letting it sit with vacuum to it and getting some decent air out of it. I go out every few minutes and pump the pedal slowly a few times. I'll test drive it in a little bit and see how it feels.
I had a horseshit problem like this & bleed it till I was blue in the face & 1gal of break fluid & then I get the mighty vac. stuck the nozel in the resivor hole & gave it a few pumps & a huge air bubble came out. ppl told me 2 get a tric master also but I wasn't buyin that advise. I knew itwas a hydro prob & sure enough out came that big ass air bubble. good luck & that should solve ur prob I hope
__________________ 01 z28 with m6|slp forced cold air induction|k&n filter|slp lid|smooth bellow|bbk 85mm tb|long tubes|y- pipe|loudmouth exhaust|strut tower brace|spec stage3+ clutch|chrome molly flywheel|& 150 shot|prc 5.3L, 2.5 heads|ms3 cam|rear control arms|rear control arm relocator brackets|panhardbar|c-5 brake upgrade|c-6 wheels|285x17's up front|315x18's in back|
1977 chevy truck 383 stroker
1985 chrysler lebarron " the shit box"
The bubbles slowed down and got alot smaller after about 45 minutes of having vacuum to it. I was going out every few minutes and pumping the pedal a bit. Took it for a drive and it possibly felt a little better, but the pedal still stuck on hard shifts.
I threw the vac back on it and I'm gonna try putting vacuum to it for a while more. I really hope this fixes it because I'm out of ideas after this.
__________________ Red 2002 Z28: Not Stock
Best ET: Too slow for the mods to list it here.
try this instead of what ur doing. in the kit there's 3 pointy adapters u can put on the end of the hose. take the one that fits in the end of the hose that's attached to the rez and give it a few pumps. it should only take u a few second & it should be done but u may need to repeat a few times. try to keep ite rez full cuz its going to want to vac the fluid out
Ill stay here till u get it done just post up & ill answer asap
__________________ 01 z28 with m6|slp forced cold air induction|k&n filter|slp lid|smooth bellow|bbk 85mm tb|long tubes|y- pipe|loudmouth exhaust|strut tower brace|spec stage3+ clutch|chrome molly flywheel|& 150 shot|prc 5.3L, 2.5 heads|ms3 cam|rear control arms|rear control arm relocator brackets|panhardbar|c-5 brake upgrade|c-6 wheels|285x17's up front|315x18's in back|
1977 chevy truck 383 stroker
1985 chrysler lebarron " the shit box"
I've been using the adapter that fits in the hole at the bottom of the reservior. Bubbles keep coming out. I go out and pump it every few minutes. I did up the vacuum to 13 and alot of bubbles came out right after. It drops very slowly to about 12 and I pump it back to 13. I'm tempted to bump it to 15 and see if it moves it along faster, but I'm afraid of hurting the seals in the master. I just don't want to be doing this for hours on end, haha.
Thanks, man!
__________________ Red 2002 Z28: Not Stock
Best ET: Too slow for the mods to list it here.
it only took me a few min with the mighty vac. just put the hose in the bottom of the line & gove it 5-10 pumps & u should see the air come out. top the fluid off pump the pedal & repeat. it should only take a few min not a few hrs. just try it like I said & I'm sure ull get it. I don't rember having a gauge on mine I just pumped it 5-10 time & ull c the bubbles
__________________ 01 z28 with m6|slp forced cold air induction|k&n filter|slp lid|smooth bellow|bbk 85mm tb|long tubes|y- pipe|loudmouth exhaust|strut tower brace|spec stage3+ clutch|chrome molly flywheel|& 150 shot|prc 5.3L, 2.5 heads|ms3 cam|rear control arms|rear control arm relocator brackets|panhardbar|c-5 brake upgrade|c-6 wheels|285x17's up front|315x18's in back|
1977 chevy truck 383 stroker
1985 chrysler lebarron " the shit box"
use the vac, take the vac off, top the fluid off, pump the pedal (make sure 2put the cover on so nothing splashes just incase), & bleed it with the vac again
__________________ 01 z28 with m6|slp forced cold air induction|k&n filter|slp lid|smooth bellow|bbk 85mm tb|long tubes|y- pipe|loudmouth exhaust|strut tower brace|spec stage3+ clutch|chrome molly flywheel|& 150 shot|prc 5.3L, 2.5 heads|ms3 cam|rear control arms|rear control arm relocator brackets|panhardbar|c-5 brake upgrade|c-6 wheels|285x17's up front|315x18's in back|
1977 chevy truck 383 stroker
1985 chrysler lebarron " the shit box"
Ok, it's still going soft and not comming back fast enough at WOT. I put the vac on and pumped it to 12. A couple bubbles came out. I'll let it sit for a few minutes and then cap it and pump the pedal, then repeat.
__________________ Red 2002 Z28: Not Stock
Best ET: Too slow for the mods to list it here.
Red 2009 G8 GT: Stock
Best ET: 13.52 @ 102.9 mph
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; 08-30-2009 at 01:43 PM..
Sounds good. I'm gonna take it for a very quick spin to see how it feels and then continue as you described.
Thanks!
u don't have 2 drive it u can just pump it up 10times then bleed it again. I would say to do this 2-4 times should be plenty. do u have new fluid in or is the fluid u had in there old. I'm assuming its new since uve bleed this till u turned blue in the face & still can't get it. LoL
__________________ 01 z28 with m6|slp forced cold air induction|k&n filter|slp lid|smooth bellow|bbk 85mm tb|long tubes|y- pipe|loudmouth exhaust|strut tower brace|spec stage3+ clutch|chrome molly flywheel|& 150 shot|prc 5.3L, 2.5 heads|ms3 cam|rear control arms|rear control arm relocator brackets|panhardbar|c-5 brake upgrade|c-6 wheels|285x17's up front|315x18's in back|
1977 chevy truck 383 stroker
1985 chrysler lebarron " the shit box"
and decided in converting to an auto.
