Just 4 more out there and we can put this issue behind us, thank you to all for your patience in this matter.
Yes i did say it didnt matter b/c I cant just put the clutch back in the car after you look at it and see if everything works. I also told you I had all NEW hydraulics in the car and i had bled the thing for 3 days. You also told me that just b/c your clutch was beefier than my previous spec 3 that i would probably need an adjustable master. Now im not trying to argue im just very frustrated. However what i would like to know is how are all these people with spec 3+ and 4's running with a stock MC and working just fine? i know your stage 3 is not above those. Also is it normal for 4 out of the 6 pucks to not rest flat on the PP?
Spending 680 on a clutch then being told i might have to buy another $350 adjustable master is not something anyone should have to do. Also you state on numerous occasions that your clutch does not require a shim yet jonathon at tick frequently uses shims on your clutches, why the discrepency? I know you guys are here to help and this is why in asking questions, again im not trying to knock the company in any way. You can send me a label, why not, since the motor blew i have nothing but time.
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
I dont think I've ever seen a performance company be proactive in tracking down a problem with a product like Monster has done.
I am impressed!
__________________
Gforce Engineering AKA GFORCE1320.com
403ci LS2, Dart CNC 225's, direct port, TH400 & 9" Chance Converter
GFORCE1320 Level 2 HALF SHAFTS and stubs
9.41 @ 144mph, 1.41 60ft on the spray
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Fastest OEM IRS GTO in the USA
Yes i did say it didnt matter b/c I cant just put the clutch back in the car after you look at it and see if everything works. I also told you I had all NEW hydraulics in the car and i had bled the thing for 3 days. You also told me that just b/c your clutch was beefier than my previous spec 3 that i would probably need an adjustable master. Now im not trying to argue im just very frustrated. However what i would like to know is how are all these people with spec 3+ and 4's running with a stock MC and working just fine? i know your stage 3 is not above those. Also is it normal for 4 out of the 6 pucks to not rest flat on the PP?
Spending 680 on a clutch then being told i might have to buy another $350 adjustable master is not something anyone should have to do. Also you state on numerous occasions that your clutch does not require a shim yet jonathon at tick frequently uses shims on your clutches, why the discrepency? I know you guys are here to help and this is why in asking questions, again im not trying to knock the company in any way. You can send me a label, why not, since the motor blew i have nothing but time.
You sir, have some valid points. I'd like to see Tick come on board and explain the shim usage with Monster responding. So is everybody using the monster clutches also having to purchase an adjustable master?
__________________ Outlaw Torn
2002 Black 6-spd Camaro SS. 448rwhp/402rtq..... AFR 205's milled, SI6 Speed inc. cam, FAST 92/92 combo, SFC's, STB, BMR adj tq arm, LCA's, 32mm Sway bar, B&M ripper, 4.10's, Textralia OZ700 Z-Grip Clutch, SLP U/D pulley, SLP Longtubes, 42# injectors, Everything Speed inc. installed and tuned.
I got about 8000ish miles on it and its been great so far.
My car weighs 3800lb+ and its been 10.3 at 133 with a best mph of 135. They must make a nice clutch for it to stand up to the abuse I put it thru in this heavy car.
I got about 8000ish miles on it and its been great so far.
My car weighs 3800lb+ and its been 10.3 at 133 with a best mph of 135. They must make a nice clutch for it to stand up to the abuse I put it thru in this heavy car.
I sure hope a level 5 would be able to support a car thats running 10s lol if not something would be seriously wrong
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
Well, you also have to realize that these clutches have been out for quite a while now, with thousands out on the road, and really, not a problem to speak of. So, when you and a couple others started in having some problems, that are actually quite normal @ here, and they all end up being easily fixed. So, that is why I was not quick to jump into the theory of a bad PP, again, as Monster has great quality control, so would have been (and is) a rare occurence of a bad "Monster part". Still, if you go by the numbers that are given, that is still over a 98% success rate...
Yes, the old one will need to be shipped back, but first you need to verify that your's was one of the "one's".
How do I know if I have one of the bad ones in a customers car.What are the symptoms? I bought it for him in Jan 09.His chatters, then it will go away. Then come back again.Sometimes really bad.This is a Level 5 in a 03 Z06.Thanx
miller456, I will say that after the Tick master the trans went into gear good, but still felt a bit notchy and reverse never quite felt right. I thought I was just imagining things, but since the pressure plates turned out to be flawed, I'm thinking it wasn't just in my head.
I'll let you know the outcome as soon as it's done, but it may take me a while to break this one in. I did a ton of driving (and spend a bunch of money on gas, haha) to get the 500 miles on the clutch in like 3 days last time, but I'm not gonna do that again. Might take 2-3 weeks this time.
__________________ -2002 Z28, Red, M6, few toys
-2009 G8 GT, Liquid Red, Stock: 13.52 @ 102.9 mph
Mods: currently way too stock for comfort
How do I know if I have one of the bad ones in a customers car.What are the symptoms? I bought it for him in Jan 09.His chatters, then it will go away. Then come back again.Sometimes really bad.This is a Level 5 in a 03 Z06.Thanx
No, you don't have one. These are recently, and only 28 of them were defective. So, something installed 9 months ago, you are free and clear.
A Level V is gonna chatter, so you do not have any problems.
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
. So is everybody using the monster clutches also having to purchase an adjustable master?
No, that is not correct. And let's be CLEAR on this guys:
If any of you have not heard by now that the stock hydraulics are JUNK, then you need to read a bit more on the site here. It seems I alone answer 5-10 threads A DAY on junk hydraulics.
So, what happens is, someone puts in a Level 3 (or whatever) and using a stock old, used MC (and mind you,a NEW STOCK MC SUCKS to begin with), but now you are asking a used stock POS MC to disengage a heavier duty PP.
So, SOME can run into some problems when using thier used stock MC with a newer heavier duty clutch setup (and this is just NOT Monster Clutches, it is a lot of the clutches out there)
So, to get the most out of your setup, it is RECOMENDED to get a quality ADJ MC to go along with your clutch.
Now, sure, would be easy to say, go buy another STOCK MC, and put it in front of a Monster Clutch. But you have to understand, that is taking a crap shoot, ESPECIALLY if we are talking about a Level 3 or higher PP.
Now, some may want to compare a old clutch setup they took out,and say "Well, my XYZ Brand Clutch did not require an adj MC".
Well, maybe they did not suggest one is all???
What I am getting at is, i have installed my fair sure of Monster Clutches, without shims, and some with new stock MC, used stock MC, and adj MC's. And what i can tell you is that the ADJ MC setup's all drive better, or have a better "feel" to them is all. The new and used stock MC's I ahve driven, sure, all drove fine as well, but when it comes down to brass tacks, teh fact of the matter is teh ADJ MC drove better, and hence, why Monster RECOMMENDS one. Now, some may balk at teh idea of having to spend over $300 on a TICK ADJ MC.
You do realize there ARE other ADJ MC's out there, right? For less? I am NOT knocking TICK, at all, I am jsut saying that IF you want to spend less on a MC, there ARE alternatives. Are they inferior to TICK's setup? One could argue that, sure. Are they better than a stock setup? Hell yeah! ANYTHING is an improvement over a stock setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodydropped
I've got a Monster LVL 5 and its FLAWLESS
I got about 8000ish miles on it and its been great so far.
My car weighs 3800lb+ and its been 10.3 at 133 with a best mph of 135. They must make a nice clutch for it to stand up to the abuse I put it thru in this heavy car.
AWESOME! Glad you are loving it, and does sound like you are putting some abuse to it!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by miller456
I sure hope a level 5 would be able to support a car thats running 10s lol if not something would be seriously wrong
I don't think he was bragging about the Level 5's ability to handle the power he is making...To me, what he is saying is, he has a Level 5 Monster in his ride, and loves it. Not to mention, that it is in a 3800LB car (which is heavy) AND ripping off 10.30's ET and 135 MPH trap speeds (which is 9 second territory), AND it see's the street with over 8K miles on it. I say
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
I do realize there are other adj. masters out there, in fact you can make the stock master adjustable if you want to for pretty cheap. There was a write up somewhere on that also. However if a company is going to claim that just b/c their clutch is beefier than my last setup and that i will most likely need an adjustable is absurd and costly if you want a decent unit.
This still does not answer my question as to how many people use a stock master on spec level 3+ and 4s with no problems which are in fact above a monster level 3. It also does not answer the discrepency in why tick installs shims on monster clutches when they are specifically designed not to use a shim. My car shift through the gear just fine during normal driving. The problem is WOT, it simply will not hit the gear unless i let up on the throttle to shift. The clutch has pressure even with the brake pedal which is exactly where it should, however the clutch does not actually feel like its disengaging till half way to the floor. To me this feels like a shim should be installed, but once again the motor is out of the car and does me not good to look at this point.
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
miller456, I will say that after the Tick master the trans went into gear good, but still felt a bit notchy and reverse never quite felt right. I thought I was just imagining things, but since the pressure plates turned out to be flawed, I'm thinking it wasn't just in my head.
I'll let you know the outcome as soon as it's done, but it may take me a while to break this one in. I did a ton of driving (and spend a bunch of money on gas, haha) to get the 500 miles on the clutch in like 3 days last time, but I'm not gonna do that again. Might take 2-3 weeks this time.
Thanks man I appreciate the time and effort you are making in keeping us posted.
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
I do realize there are other adj. masters out there, in fact you can make the stock master adjustable if you want to for pretty cheap. There was a write up somewhere on that also. However if a company is going to claim that just b/c their clutch is beefier than my last setup and that i will most likely need an adjustable is absurd and costly if you want a decent unit.
.
You obviously did not read my post. They RECOMMEND one to take full advantage of it, NOT necessary.
To say that you can make a stock MC adjustable is pretty ridiculous actually, as it does NOT solve teh problem the stock MC has.....FLUID VOLUME/PRESSURE (or lack of I should say) THAT is teh reason why most go with a TICK (or teh like) because of fluid displacement, and the adj. of it is a nice feature as well, but NOT the important part.
You need to read up some more on our hydraulics, as you clearly do not know teh problems associated with them. They were designed for comfort, not aggressive driving. Why do you think the "drill mod" was/is a popular thing to do if you are gonna run a stock MC? To try and get MORE fluid from the MC to teh slave by enlarging the orfice/line by drilliing/opening it up some.
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
You obviously did not read my post. They RECOMMEND one to take full advantage of it, NOT necessary.
To say that you can make a stock MC adjustable is pretty ridiculous actually, as it does NOT solve teh problem the stock MC has.....FLUID VOLUME/PRESSURE (or lack of I should say) THAT is teh reason why most go with a TICK (or teh like) because of fluid displacement, and the adj. of it is a nice feature as well, but NOT the important part.
You need to read up some more on our hydraulics, as you clearly do not know teh problems associated with them. They were designed for comfort, not aggressive driving. Why do you think the "drill mod" was/is a popular thing to do if you are gonna run a stock MC? To try and get MORE fluid from the MC to teh slave by enlarging the orfice/line by drilliing/opening it up some.
actually you need to read some more on hydraulics from what im seeing. Try looking in the stickies for once. Heres the link for making the stock master adjustable
Also I do not need to read your post again, I understood it just fine the first time. My answer for the problem from Steve was either theres still air in the line or i would most likely need an adjustable master but he would still be more than happy to look at my disk and PP to make sure of no issues, hence my post.
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
That is a great write up on how to make your stocker adjustable,, but thats about it....it does nothing to solve the high rpm shifting problem,, there just isnt enough room for the right amount of fluid to move the clutch parts. As mentioned by Gen414, the tubing for fluid travel is much bigger on the tick unit to allow alot more fluid flow, which means more pressure to move the TOB, etc, etc, etc. at those high engine speeds. My TA does it as well, an my Spec 3 is 30000 miles old (very soft pedal),, but if im up near 6000 RPMS and try to shift (ususally from 3rd to 4th, as i like to hang in 3rd)
Steve @ SNL - props for standing up and taking care of the issue.
I can't believe anyone would install a performance clutch and expect it to perform - without upgrading the hydraulics. The stock hydraulics blow period.
With my level 3 monster and tick master - all I have to do is bump the clutch to do a WOT powershift. I can shift it so quick the revs don't even go up. I've set at the tree @ 6000rpm as well and the car doesn't even move - so I have zero disengagement issues.
If I ever manage to kill this clutch - I'll order another monster immediately.
__________________ -Jeremy
03 GMC Sierra RCSB 4x4 5.3
CAI - GMPP Exhaust.Exhaust Clip
That is a great write up on how to make your stocker adjustable,, but thats about it....it does nothing to solve the high rpm shifting problem,, there just isnt enough room for the right amount of fluid to move the clutch parts. As mentioned by Gen414, the tubing for fluid travel is much bigger on the tick unit to allow alot more fluid flow, which means more pressure to move the TOB, etc, etc, etc. at those high engine speeds. My TA does it as well, an my Spec 3 is 30000 miles old (very soft pedal),, but if im up near 6000 RPMS and try to shift (ususally from 3rd to 4th, as i like to hang in 3rd)
That is true the tick is larger and flows more fluid to allow more pressure, and I made the post about the stocker being adjustable b/c it has been done and worked great for some people. Then I just got flamed for even insinuating the fact that you could even do it, when its posted right in the sticky. My question still remains though, why do some people use shims in monster clutches like jonathan at tick, and they state the clutches are designed not to be used with them?
My spec 3 I jammed gears all day long with stock master and drill mod, and did you use the shim with ur spec?
__________________ Current Mods:SLP lid, spec 3, lowered, Nitto555R DR's, Pacesetter LTs and ORY, Corsa catback, LS6 intake, pro 5.0shifter, Built t-56, Ms4 cam, 42lb SVO injectors, 3" QTP cutout, 150 shot, walbro 255.
