How to bleed your clutch with a TICK SPEEDBLEEDER (mod, please sticky)
There are two purposes for the creation of the Tick Speed Bleeder. The first is the relocate the bleeder from the slave cylinder between the engine and transmission to a location more accessible under your hood. The second purpose is to make bleeding your clutch a simple, one-man job.
On the end of the braided line is a speed bleeder/solo bleeder, allowing you to simply crack it open one time and close it once the air is out of the system, instead of having to open and close the bleeder with every pump of the pedal. No longer will you have to open and close your bleeder multiple times
Instructions:
1- Using an 8mm wrench or socket, crack the bleeder 1/2 turn
2- Using a short, 1/4in clear tube, attach one end to the end of the speed bleeder and dangle the other end into a water bottle or fluid receptacle to catch spent fluid. (This is not necessary, it prevents corrosive brake fluid from spraying onto your paint.)
3- Remove cover from clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir. Remove the black diaphragm as well.
4- With the bleeder open and tubing attached, pump your clutch slowly 3-4 times. Your pedal will stay stuck to the floor and not come back by itself; this is normal. Every few pumps, check the reservoir and fill with brake fluid as needed; Never let it run dry! If you run it dry, you will introduce air into the system.
5- Repeat step 4 until clear fluid is being flushed from the end of the bleeder
6- Remove tubing, close bleeder, and top off brake fluid.
7- Pump your clutch approximately 10 times to expel remaining air. You should have a full pedal with the first pump
8- Reinstall diaphragm and cover
Time Spent- Approx 5-10 minutes
**I will have pics posted within a few days**
**if there is anyway I could write this better, please give me feedback**
__________________ 98 Trans Am
Last edited by slayerized6; 10-27-2009 at 12:07 AM..
The speed bleeder I received from Tick with their master will suck air in between the line and the nut, so I'd be careful assuming this always works. I guess they fixed that problem with the later versions.
The speed bleeder I received from Tick with their master will suck air in between the line and the nut, so I'd be careful assuming this always works. I guess they fixed that problem with the later versions.
are you talking about it pulling air because the speed bleeder was unscrewed too far?
The speed bleeder I received from Tick with their master will suck air in between the line and the nut, so I'd be careful assuming this always works. I guess they fixed that problem with the later versions.
That is either an OLD TICK bleeder, or NOT their's. Their speed bleeder end is mounted solid and so is our bleeder line.
EDIT: UNLESS you installed it backwards....teh Tick line and ours...is a "loose" style fitting, on the SLAVE end, but both of our's are clearly marked, or should have been with teh speed bleeder valve installed in teh end that is supposed to have it.
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
That is either an OLD TICK bleeder, or NOT their's. Their speed bleeder end is mounted solid and so is our bleeder line.
EDIT: UNLESS you installed it backwards....teh Tick line and ours...is a "loose" style fitting, on the SLAVE end, but both of our's are clearly marked, or should have been with teh speed bleeder valve installed in teh end that is supposed to have it.
I checked my email, got it as part of a GP in February. I'm assuming it is theirs, since I got it from them. It is definitely not solid when I crack the bleeder, will rattle on the end of the line. I'm pretty sure I didn't disassemble the line so that I could install it in reverse, if that's even possible. Like I said, they probably fixed this issue in the later versions. Good to know that you assume the customer is always a moron though.