Just installed Tick master constant bubbles at 14kpa with mity vac - Page 2

Gen414 · 11-03-2009, 07:13 PM

Also, clutch pedal should be at or slightly ABOVE brake pedal....(saw above a few posts, where he said pedal was BELOW)

Kurtomac · 11-03-2009, 09:19 PM

who says it should be above the brake pedal...its going in the 6 forward gears fine...it doesnt move/creep when i rev with it in gear clutch in...I'll try adjusting up to see if it helps with the reverse problem...I had it around the same height as the brake pedal but it felt like when it was cluth all the way it that it was really pressing hard on the pressure plate like pressing past the point that it doesnt want to go any further if that makes any sense but what do I know Im the one having issues...any more insight based on what Im saying?

Kurtomac · 11-03-2009, 09:21 PM

oh...also if it was slightly above the brake pedal that would seem like an awful long throw for this master and the length of the cylinder appears to be much shorter than the stocker or am I wrong...easier to drive with the pedal closer to the floor too than higher than the brake pedal

KurtRardin · 11-03-2009, 10:49 PM

I am definitely going to try bleeding traditionally with the slave bleeder and only work the dead space in the pedal.

Do you think we hurt anything in the master by using a mity vac? I noticed that my clutch pedal seems to be in the stock position, in line with the other pedals. Should I be concerned with an overadjustment once I bleed out the squishy feeling in the top?

I haven't really tried redlining my setup to see if it creeps forward, but I have noticed that it doesnt like to go into 5th gear while cold unless I double clutch it... which leads me to believe that my setup isnt fully disengaging... right? Oh, and I didn't bench bleed my master. I just went right to traditional bleeding via the hole in my floor pan.

Jonathan@Tick · 11-04-2009, 08:43 AM

Theres no right or wrong pedal height and I agree that the closer you can keep it to the floor with a full dissengagement the easier it will be to drive aggresively. As for the stroke of the master, it has 1" of travel which is the same if not slightly longer than the factory master.

Adjust the pedal down some (closer to the floor) where you don't feel what you described as pressing hard on the pp. The get on some level ground, put the car in first gear, and with the pedal pressed firmly to the floor rev the engine quickly to redline or atleast 6,000 rpms. If it creeps forward you need to adjust the pedal out some more. Of course, before doing any of this you should try to get the system bleed 100% and make sure the squishy part has been taken out at the top of the pedals travel. Good luck.

Gen414 · 11-04-2009, 08:59 AM

All teh setups I have driven, when pedal is that close to floor, have issue's. As soon as you push pedal in, pedal is "bottoming out" on stop, and Im not big on that. Especially after looking at my setup on teh work bench, and seeing teh TOB/slave travel in comparison to teh pedal.

Gen414 · 11-04-2009, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurtomac

oh...also if it was slightly above the brake pedal that would seem like an awful long throw for this master and the length of the cylinder appears to be much shorter than the stocker or am I wrong...easier to drive with the pedal closer to the floor too than higher than the brake pedal

Well, if there is not that much throw on it, then having pedal that high, wil have possibly too much travel.

Now, I have not tested the tick on my work bench yet, but I can tell you that the stocker (tested 2 different MC's now) will NOT start to push in slave/TOB as soon as clutch pedal begins to have pressure applied, there is an area of "free play" (or whatever you want to call it) before it starts to move teh slave/MC.

So, if pedal is that close to floor, and you add in the "free play", about the time the TOB has applied REAL pressure to PP and starting to disengage it, the pedal is going to hit the stop. That I KNOW for a fact. I started this thread to give you an idea of teh testing I have done, as to show you I am not just throwing shit out there....

PICTURES of measuring for shim, and bench testing setups, good tech....

Now, with the TICK MC, I have NOT tested yet, so maybe they can chime in and tell us what to expect with their MC (as far as travel/tob/slave movement begins)

Kurtomac · 11-04-2009, 11:29 AM

here we go guys...enough of this explaining my problem...heres 2 videos...you can hear the fluid movement in the video as i move the pedal by hand the movement i show is until the pedal firms up...note the pedal placement in relation to the brake pedal in the vids as well so you can picture what i've described

Kurtomac · 11-04-2009, 11:31 AM

Jonathan@Tick · 11-04-2009, 05:34 PM

As gen414 said, there will be some "free play" at the top of the pedals travel on our cylinder or the factory one. Ater watching the video, yours may be a bit excessive but I'd expect the pedal itself to move about a 1/4" before actually applying pressure. If the pedal is consistent and totally firm after that initial free play, then it really doesn't matter that its there. If the pedal is mushy then it may need farther bleeding or even replacement of the master or slave.

The rev test will determine if the trans isn't shifting due to the hyrdraulics or clutch or if it is indeed a tranny problem. You could disconnect the masters line from the slave and see just how firm or soft the pedal is then. That will tell you if the master is bled fully. Fully bled and the pedal will be rock solid, if it has air in the system still the pedal will move down some and feel mushy. If you disconnect the line, only use your had to apply any pressure, too much could damage the master.

Gen414 · 11-04-2009, 07:37 PM

Next thing I would do is extend it ALL the way out for BLEEDING only, to make sure you are getting all air out of system.

Also, with car off, as you told me today, you are still having a hard time getting into reverse, correct? As I told you on teh phone today, I personally feel that is tranny related.

reverse is normally a gear that is weird on ALL cars, and over the years, I have gotten so use to putting in 1st, rolling forward, and THEN going into reverse, REGARDLESS of what car it is. To many times I have hopped in a car, and it would grind going into reverse, so I just make it a practice to do teh 1st to reverse thing when drivin a manual.

Have tried speed shifting it? (without me going back over every post, save me some time) Normal driving? fast shifting? How are the forward gears under that type of driving?

Kurtomac · 11-04-2009, 09:31 PM

Im going to extend it and bleed it so I get a full stroke of the master during bleeding. Car off it helps if i put it in 1st then reverse slides in...I extended out the master about 1 turn before work today...reverse not really any easier but when i got home in the garage tonite i pushed the clutch to the floor and held it. went through the gears 1 thru 6 and it goes right in reverse with car running much better...back out of reverse a couple more shifts with pedal still on floor and car running stationary naturally...went from 1st to reverse...2nd to reverse...no problem....let out of clutch...tried to go straight to reverse...no dice....weird...after my bleed im going to do the rev test and see how the gears feel speed shifting and whatnot...maybe I'll try a fluid change to something else too (Amsoil now)
I havnt done the rev test or high speed shifts yet at this current adjusted spot...im not adjusted out far enough yet to get that really putting strain on the pp feeling though so maybe another turn adjusted out and she'll get better...not sure if we call this progress or not

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen414

Next thing I would do is extend it ALL the way out for BLEEDING only, to make sure you are getting all air out of system.

Also, with car off, as you told me today, you are still having a hard time getting into reverse, correct? As I told you on teh phone today, I personally feel that is tranny related.

reverse is normally a gear that is weird on ALL cars, and over the years, I have gotten so use to putting in 1st, rolling forward, and THEN going into reverse, REGARDLESS of what car it is. To many times I have hopped in a car, and it would grind going into reverse, so I just make it a practice to do teh 1st to reverse thing when drivin a manual.

Have tried speed shifting it? (without me going back over every post, save me some time) Normal driving? fast shifting? How are the forward gears under that type of driving?

Kurtomac · 11-04-2009, 09:34 PM

just a fyi...ive been trying the 1st or 4th to reverse and its not been working over the last week...maybe something with the pedal being held down so long while i was changing all those gears when it went in easier...just rambling out my thoughts