Just installed Tick master constant bubbles at 14kpa with mity vac
It has to be pulling air from somewhere...anyone think the stock reservoir line that runs to the master could be causeing this...as its held on the stock master with the two fairly large barbs in the line...the tick unit has that plastic adapter that goes on the master and has a barbed line on it to run the line to the reservoir...and they expect it to be a good seal with a zip tie? I was thinkin a small hose clamp/worm gear clamp at least...i could run it to 25kpa with the stock master with no bubbles and i get to 15kpa and its constant bubbles with this...i have a slight dead spot at the top of my pedal
The only reason I did this master is because RPM advised me my stock master was defective causing difficulty goin in first and reverse...although the same hydraulics with my stock m12 wasnt hard...i even passed the rev test...revved to 6k plus clutch pushed in with stock master and it didnt go anywhere...so now i have this new master...i hate the feel...clutch pedal push pressure has doubled i would say and i still have my reverse/first issue...so im out 330 bux with the same issues+ a crappy/stiffer pedal feel...pointless mod in my case...i had proper gap between the slave and the clutch fingers and bled my stock hydraulics(21k miles) properly and they told me it was still a master issue...although now im thinking otherwise
does GM sell just the line that runs from the master to the reservoir without replacing the reservoir? I think that line where the stiff 2 barbs were on the stock master may have bulged the line from the years of being on it there making it difficult to seal to the tick master adapter. One more thing...how tight should i tighten that golden looking 2 bar clamp that holds that master to line adapter to the master? (white plastic piece) It has to be pulling air from where in that region when under vacuum as my stock master/reservoir line could hold 25kpa easily. The top of the pedal has the slightest bit of play and im almost positive its air...still disengaging fine but I wan to dead pedal/air
first its 15 in/hg of vacuum, but for the Tick, don't pull more than 10 in/hg. I noticed at 15+ I could pull air like there's no tomorrow.
Next, pressure is not the same as vacuum when it comes to seals. You may notice this as you are able to push in a pretty damn heavy clutch and yet not squeeze out fluid from all points which could leak along the line. Stick to a traditional bleed initially to get things going. Pulling too much vacuum will keep introducing new air into the system and make adjusting the clutch properly a pain.
You'll know its ok if you can hold 10 in/hg of vacuum for a good amount of time. I let mine hold it overnight as a test. I've been driving on mine since late Aug. It's held quite well. If you can pass the rev test, you have full release.
The pedal feel will feel VERY hard at first, but the tick master does have a break in period. It will end up being 15% stiffer than stock, but more or less I got back my stock feel with the LS7 clutch.
__________________ 1998 Camaro Z28
5.7L SFI | 6 Speed | 380HP 373ft/lb
mine's stock too...
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I had the same problem. Mine had a slight dead spot at the top of the pedal. I just got my g/f to push and pull the pedal back and forth on the pedal in the "dead space" while keeping 10-12in/hg on the mitey vac. Eventually the dead space will go away. Then I had my g/f slowly (real slow) push the pedal to the floor and then all the way back up. If there was dead space again I would do it over.
Make sure you keep the reservoir full and release the pressure before pulling the tip of the mitey vac out. Once I got that down I had it done in 5-10 minutes.
Mine seems to have that dead space at the top too. If I pump that dead space before I take off from a parking spot it seems to get a little firmer. I've got a mity vac and I've vac'd it at about 12(whatever unit of measurement) and kept pulling constant bubbles. Is there a way to just open the bleeder valve at the slave and pull fluid from there via the mity vac?
Im going to try and get a better clamp for that line...my friend zturd had the same prob...he put a new reservoir/line on it ( i think its the line that fixed it) with a good clamp and can hold 20+ in/hg with his tick...firm to the top of the pedal...Ive done conventional bleeding a few times with my bleeder and mity vac'd the bleeder screw..there it no air on that side...Mity Vac'd it a few times...any other replaced this part with sucess of pulling good vacuum and getting all the air out of the master?
oh and I had a buddy come over last night while i was mity vac'ing it had him just tap the top dead spot and it got firm for a sec then a big stream of bubbles came (from the source im trying to find) and the dead spot came back...the master prob just cought a few of those bubbles...i was trying a few things...pedal pressure with the vac applied, pedal half way down...pedal to the floor...quick jabs of the pedal at the dead spot only...how tight did you guys tighten that clamp that holds the while piece on the master?
Close bleeder valve, take off reservoir cap and boot. Push pedal to floor, and you should start seeing some rather large bubbles come to top. Once they get smaller, then you can go back to conventional bleeding.
I have NEVER been a fan of teh MityVac on our hydro's though. Try conventional bleeding (I have MANY threads on how to do it correctly) and done that way will take you @ 10 minutes is all with a good helping hand.
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Conventional bleeding is the way to go, you're not looking to create a reverse vacumn. eventhough it appears that the air bubbles are being removed, you still are not building any hydraulic pressure. You need to build some pressure and than remove the air from the pressure being built.
Using a mity-vac with to much pressure will most likely suck air in through the seals, that's why you will continue to see air bubbles and probably ruin the hydraulics seals in the process.
Bench bleeding a Tick m/c is very easy, the fluid practically bleeds itself.
The Tick pushes alot more fluid over the stock m/c.
ive bled and rebled both conventionally and with the mity vac...when doing a full bleed with this master should i adjust it way out and bleed gen414's way and then adjust it back in to ensure im getting a full stroke of bleed from this master? I have it set below my brake pedal because it seems to shift fine and goes in first and the other gears...except reverse this is a fairly new RPM level 5 trans never raced yet either and had this issue with reverse since ive installed....i tried realigning the shifter as well this is in my 02 Z06...they were convinced hydraulics with the reverse issue...installed this master at their advise...stocker was working fine except the reverse thing...should i just try adjusting it way out and see if it goes in reverse easier? I dont want to have it real far out and hurt my pressure plate by overextending it
Spec Twin disk FWIW
One way to tell if your Tick m/c is under adjusted, is to put the car in gear with the clutch fully peddle in, accelerate, the car shouldn't move forward.
It's usually better to have the car lifted securely to see if the wheels spin with the car is on, in gear, peddle fully in, and slowly carefully accellerating. The wheels should not spin. If they do, the clutch is not fully disengaged. This means they Tick is under adjusted.
So if you can get your Tick m/c adjusted to where you car shifts smoothly in all gears ( including reverse ) without the wheels spinning, you should be ok.
That should mean the clutch is engaging and disengaging as it should. Obviously you don't want to over-extend or over-adjust your Tick m/c anymore than you have to.
If that doesn't solve your issues than hydraulics are most likely not the problem.
ive bled and rebled both conventionally and with the mity vac...when doing a full bleed with this master should i adjust it way out and bleed gen414's way and then adjust it back in to ensure im getting a full stroke of bleed from this master? I have it set below my brake pedal because it seems to shift fine and goes in first and the other gears...except reverse this is a fairly new RPM level 5 trans never raced yet either and had this issue with reverse since ive installed....i tried realigning the shifter as well this is in my 02 Z06...they were convinced hydraulics with the reverse issue...installed this master at their advise...stocker was working fine except the reverse thing...should i just try adjusting it way out and see if it goes in reverse easier? I dont want to have it real far out and hurt my pressure plate by overextending it
Spec Twin disk FWIW
bump for gen to look at...all the forward gears engage pretty well...reverse not so much...car off is better...should I just adjust it out further? the pedal is below the brake pedal...I actually like it lower as its easier to drive rather than a high pedal...it releases at the top of the throw like it should...should i just adjust it out further to see if it makes reverse easier to engage?
I realize the car should not creep...I did the 5k clutch in 1st gear didnt go anywhere...hell it didnt go anywhere at 6k with the stock master...but RPM says it was hyd so thats why i bought this master
One way to tell if your Tick m/c is over adjusted, is to put the car in gear with the clutch fully peddle in, accelerate, the car shouldn't move forward.
It's usually better to have the car lifted securely to see if the wheels spin with the car is on, in gear, peddle fully in, and slowly carefully accellerating. The wheels should not spin. If they do, the clutch is not fully disengaged. This means they Tick is over adjusted.
So if you can get your Tick m/c adjusted to where you car shifts smoothly in all gears ( including reverse ) without the wheels spinning, you should be ok.
That should mean the clutch is engaging and disengaging as it should. Obviously you don't want to over-extend or over-adjust your Tick m/c anymore than you have to.
If that doesn't solve your issues than hydraulics are most likely not the problem.
.
I don't understand this. If the the tick is over adjusted, shouldn't it push the pressure plate even further away from the disk? Why would over-adjusting cause the clutch not to fully disengage?
__________________ 2001 Camaro SS M6...
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I realize the car should not creep...I did the 5k clutch in 1st gear didnt go anywhere...hell it didnt go anywhere at 6k with the stock master...but RPM says it was hyd so thats why i bought this master
I don't understand this. If the the tick is over adjusted, shouldn't it push the pressure plate even further away from the disk? Why would over-adjusting cause the clutch not to fully disengage?
I don't understand this. If the the tick is over adjusted, shouldn't it push the pressure plate even further away from the disk? Why would over-adjusting cause the clutch not to fully disengage?
agree...after i read that i was like WTF...reverse sol is fine...it gets in the gate...push forward and its a mush wall...obviously i dont want to force it in...so at that point i turn the car off and put it in and restart
I had the EXACT same problem with my McLeod master. I took it apart and the seal(wheel cylinder cup) was messed up. Bought a new one from NAPA for around $3, put it back together, and all was well. I hope this helps.
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I just ran across this thread. Using a mity vac is not a good idea with our cylinder. By pulling vaccum from the resevoir side you can and will introduce air into the system at the white adapter and hose connection. These areas do not have any type of pressure or vaccum on them during normal operation so there is no need to perform a vaccum bleed. As long as fluid isn't leaking, the connections are good.
I can't understand why everyone needs to have a "mity vac". Our cylinder can be bench bled before install in 5 minutes by simply pushing the piston in at the end of the line then pushing the rod of the master completely down. While the rod of the master is completely down, release the piston and the end of the line and let the rod return. Do this about 4 times and the master will be totally bled and rock solid.
A conventional bleed is all that is necessary. pedal up, loosen bleeder, pedal down, tighten bleeder, repeat. If theres a slight dead space at the top of the pedal, simply pump the pedal with short strokes within the dead space. You can tell when the pedal begins to actually move fluid/pp fingers. At that point stop pressing it. Doing this by hand will give you a good feel for it. Pump only the dead space and within a minute or two the dead space should be all but gone. As with any master cylinder, there will be some dead space or "free play" at the top. 1/2" or so would be normal when measuring the actual movement of the pedal. The piston in the master has to move a little before it actually begins its stroke.
With that said, if your pedal is below the height of the brake pedal it probably isn't going to hurt to let it out a little more. If you have a feel for things you can also tell when the pressure plate is actually being applied too much. The feel of the pedal will change from normal feel (you should feel the breaking point just before the pedal reaches the floor) to a mushy, wierd feeling if you're going too far just before it bottoms out.
I hope you get if figured out. I realize our master combined with the spec twin is pretty stiff. With the gm clutches, monster, tex, etc the feel is excellent but combined with the already stiff spec pp will give your leg a workout. Based of feel alone, the spec is noticably stiffer than any other clutches I've installed..stage 3, 5, twins, whatever.
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Just installed Tick master constant bubbles at 14kpa with mity vac 
