Location: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
Posts: 651
Tick speed bleeder.
__________________ -99 T/A, Black, M6, Flowtech LT Headers, ORY, SLP exhaust and lid, MSD wires, smooth bellow, skip shift eliminator, Ram Air hood, Micheline Pilot Sports, Alpine CDE-9870 HU. 335BWHP/344TQ Loud and quick... just the way I like it.
-06 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince from Employee of the Month
Before I jack the car up and start taking things apart, can I bleed the stock clutch?
yes...
2 people
1 under car
1 in car
car on jackstands
top off reservoir
apply pressure to clutch pedal, but do NOT push to floor or pump
Person under car, open bleeder
in car, push SLOWLY to floor, and right BEFORE pedal gets to floor, yell...CLOSE IT!!!
under car, closes bleeder
in car, release pedal
Repeat
After 4-5 pumps check reservoir and refill, as it WILL empty quickly
15-30 minutes later (depending on your technical background) you should have a nice firm pedal.
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
After each time i do this,, the pedal just stays on the floor (i think we were pumping though), do i need to do this until the pedal dosnt stay on the floor? when i do it,, i get no change in pedal feel,, still feels sloppy to me... and with each time, we have to pick the pedal up off the floor...
After each time i do this,, the pedal just stays on the floor (i think we were pumping though), do i need to do this until the pedal dosnt stay on the floor? when i do it,, i get no change in pedal feel,, still feels sloppy to me... and with each time, we have to pick the pedal up off the floor...
Do NOT pump. Yes, do this until pedal becomes firm.
very important that you CHECK RESERVOIR FREQUENTLY..you run it empty, air gets in system, and start all over.
If having hard time doing this, and pedal is still dead, do this:
Close system, take out rubber boot out of reserovir and cap off. Having someone watch helps....but watch reservoir, and have someone push down on pedal (again, bleeder CLOSED) and you should get quite a bit of LARGE air bubbles coming to the top. Once bubbles become smaller, than go back to normal bleeding.
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
ok, the wife and i got er done per these instructions,, still not a solid pedal like the guy above has, but does feel better than it did.
I did the slave closed, resivor opened thing first, and while i didnt get any bubbles at all (big or small) the fluid level went down alot,, i refilled,, kept doing it and then it stayed,,,, at that point i got under the car to bleed via the slave... something i noticed is that the last time i bled,,, i would open the bleeder much more than a crack and the pedal would always stay on the floor after each time we pushed the pedal (i also "pumped" the last time).. this time i actually just "cracked" the bleeder and the wife would tell me the pedal would come back on its own... i think this is where my last bleeding went to shit. (i kept opening the bleeder to much)
end result is the barking, chattery vrrp noise is gone (for now) its to be almost 70 here in the midwest this weekend so i plan on getting her out and about to see how she does.
ok, the wife and i got er done per these instructions,, still not a solid pedal like the guy above has, but does feel better than it did.
I did the slave closed, resivor opened thing first, and while i didnt get any bubbles at all (big or small) the fluid level went down alot,, i refilled,, kept doing it and then it stayed,,,, at that point i got under the car to bleed via the slave... something i noticed is that the last time i bled,,, i would open the bleeder much more than a crack and the pedal would always stay on the floor after each time we pushed the pedal (i also "pumped" the last time).. this time i actually just "cracked" the bleeder and the wife would tell me the pedal would come back on its own... i think this is where my last bleeding went to shit. (i kept opening the bleeder to much)
end result is the barking, chattery vrrp noise is gone (for now) its to be almost 70 here in the midwest this weekend so i plan on getting her out and about to see how she does.
Thanx again for your help!!!!!!!!!
Wayne
ahhh i guess i was doing the same, but it sucks having that brake fluid coming down the wrench, then your arm, then down your shoulder, garage floor.lol. i dont know if its worth it. the mityvac gave me my pedal back in 5 min after i blead it leaving it with a dead pedal the night before. will the mityvac in the reservior pull air all the way from the slave? im thinking i was opening the bleeder too much. my pedal is rock solid now.
__________________ '00 Trans Am WS6 6M
'71 GTO 400/TH400 stock except LTs& street tires 13.0 @105
it is messy, but worth it,, last tiem i did it, i hardley had any mess,, hardley anything came out,, just kinda spit a lil bit from the slave, and only a lil bit came out the weep hole,, maybe 1 floz total,,, this time,, i had quite a bit that came out,, probably close to or just over a cup's worth.
this is my first hydro clutch, so im still learnin
ok, the wife and i got er done per these instructions,, still not a solid pedal like the guy above has, but does feel better than it did.
I did the slave closed, resivor opened thing first, and while i didnt get any bubbles at all (big or small) the fluid level went down alot,, i refilled,, kept doing it and then it stayed,,,, at that point i got under the car to bleed via the slave... something i noticed is that the last time i bled,,, i would open the bleeder much more than a crack and the pedal would always stay on the floor after each time we pushed the pedal (i also "pumped" the last time).. this time i actually just "cracked" the bleeder and the wife would tell me the pedal would come back on its own... i think this is where my last bleeding went to shit. (i kept opening the bleeder to much)
end result is the barking, chattery vrrp noise is gone (for now) its to be almost 70 here in the midwest this weekend so i plan on getting her out and about to see how she does.
Thanx again for your help!!!!!!!!!
Wayne
Your welcome, anytime.
You will find that there are a few ways to bleed it, but the way I described has worked perfectly for us, and we do this a couple times a week.
Some say use Mityvac, but just not a fan of it for BLEEDING a system.
What I DO like the mityvac for is to flush a brake system. With brakes already bled, and you want to flush brake fluid from system (which I do @ every 2 years or so) is start at RR tire, hook up mityvac to bleeder on caliper, and start pulling fluid out until fluid is clean.
Move to LR, and same thing, then RF, then LF.
Obviously keep an eye and add fluid to reservoir and you are good to go...will take about 20-30 minutes to flush teh braking system this way, and never have to bleed it or introuduce air into the system that way.
__________________
www.morrismotorsports.net
281-732-8215
Dealer for Monster Clutches 90MM TB on sale $275 and 92MM TB on sale $299
On special: 427" ERL Shortblocks only $4500 500" ERL Super Deck II shortblock only $9500
so far im at 200 miles since the bleed and the noise hasnt come back (KOW)
how often should i bleed my clutch? I only drive the car around 3 to 5 thousand miles a year.....
The fluid needs to be kept clean but you do not have to bleed the clutch to do so. After you get on it good check the fluid. The fluid can be dirty from cluth dust supposedly. You can suck out the reservoir and add new break fluid give the clutch a few pumps and do it again. repeat about 5 times fluid should be clean.
Does the trans need to be moved back in order to bleed it?
no I would tape the socket onto the extension though because if you drop it in the bellhousing than you do have to drop it to get it out. The bleeder screw is directly above the quick connect. You are probably going to have to reach up there and feel it to find it. Hard to see.
more like you cant see it,, cant on mine anyways,, its all by feel. I noticed that when i put the socket on there,, then i could'nt move the rachet as it was to deep in the tranny to be able to move the rachet side to side to open and close the bleeder, so when i put it on there, i then pull it out slightly so the rachet can move back and forth to open/close the bleeder.
Stock clutch? 
