Write up: Fix or replace your reverse lock out solenoid
06-08-2007, 09:54 PM
#1
Write up: Fix or replace your reverse lock out solenoid I know most of you guys have the problem of getting in to reverse and it usually always has something to do with the reverse lock out solenoid. Well, I had a different problem that doesn't seem to happen often and no one would tell me anything. My car would let me go into reverse at ANY speed very easy. I had to be very careful shifting around that area. Actually its impossible to engage reverse because the stuff inside are opposite, but it would grind really bad.
This is what you'll be taking off.
The actual solenoid is the copper part. The part # is 12523300. About $150 at the stealership or $100 online. I ended up not having to replace mine. It might be the wiring....i'll get to that.
This is located on the driver side of the tranny near the top right above the black brace that holds the tranny up.
Take off the two connectors in that area. One is for the solenoid and I don't know what the other one is. They are different, so you can't put them in backwards.
Its held on by 1 13mm bolt at the bottom. (not shown in picure, but you can see where it is) The best way to get it out is with a 1/4" ratchet with a normal short 1/4" drive 13mm socket.
Now the whole thing sides right out. It shouldn't leak any tranny fluid. Mine didn't and I know it has the right amount as I did it recently.
I put the whole thing in a vice and used some channel locks to twist it off.
Here's the solenoid in is rest state. See how the tit is up? It's real easy to push down. Thats normal. What it does is block the spring accuated plunger from going in on the other piece as shown in the 2nd pic. That other piece is suppose to move freely and be out as well. When they are together the plunger shouldn't move as the tit from the solenoid is blocking it. That was my problem. It wasn't blocking it. I could push the plunger in and out. I took it apart, lubed it up and it works fine!
This is down. It moves down when it is powered (12v).
Now you can check if the solenoid works by powering it. I used my battery charger. The connector only has 2 pins. It doesn't matter which one is positive or negative to test it. It worked fine. I also plugged it back in under the car to see if the wiring/PCM was messed up. With the car off, it was locked out. When I turned it to run (not start) I could push the plunger in. Thats what is suppose to happen. The car disengages the solenoid once the car is going 3-5 mph, hence locking you out. I haven't gotten to test that one yet, only because my car is running open headers. You can do it if the back tires are off the ground and pretend to drive.
Make sure the speedo is going fast enough and try and push the plunger in. It shouldn't let you.
So, if my wiring/PCM is messed up, i'll simply use a switch to power or not power my solenoid at MY command. I shouldn't need to tell you how or where to wire a switch for this. Its not hard. I can tell you that the rubber boot for the shifter is right above the solenoid. Thats where i'd run my wires.
*I don't know what'll happen with the PCM if the solenoid is not connected to it. It might throw a code? It can probably be deleted with software though or maybe a resistor like the skip shift.
This is what you'll be taking off.
The actual solenoid is the copper part. The part # is 12523300. About $150 at the stealership or $100 online. I ended up not having to replace mine. It might be the wiring....i'll get to that.
This is located on the driver side of the tranny near the top right above the black brace that holds the tranny up.
Take off the two connectors in that area. One is for the solenoid and I don't know what the other one is. They are different, so you can't put them in backwards.
Its held on by 1 13mm bolt at the bottom. (not shown in picure, but you can see where it is) The best way to get it out is with a 1/4" ratchet with a normal short 1/4" drive 13mm socket.
Now the whole thing sides right out. It shouldn't leak any tranny fluid. Mine didn't and I know it has the right amount as I did it recently.
I put the whole thing in a vice and used some channel locks to twist it off.
Here's the solenoid in is rest state. See how the tit is up? It's real easy to push down. Thats normal. What it does is block the spring accuated plunger from going in on the other piece as shown in the 2nd pic. That other piece is suppose to move freely and be out as well. When they are together the plunger shouldn't move as the tit from the solenoid is blocking it. That was my problem. It wasn't blocking it. I could push the plunger in and out. I took it apart, lubed it up and it works fine!
This is down. It moves down when it is powered (12v).
Now you can check if the solenoid works by powering it. I used my battery charger. The connector only has 2 pins. It doesn't matter which one is positive or negative to test it. It worked fine. I also plugged it back in under the car to see if the wiring/PCM was messed up. With the car off, it was locked out. When I turned it to run (not start) I could push the plunger in. Thats what is suppose to happen. The car disengages the solenoid once the car is going 3-5 mph, hence locking you out. I haven't gotten to test that one yet, only because my car is running open headers. You can do it if the back tires are off the ground and pretend to drive.
Make sure the speedo is going fast enough and try and push the plunger in. It shouldn't let you.So, if my wiring/PCM is messed up, i'll simply use a switch to power or not power my solenoid at MY command. I shouldn't need to tell you how or where to wire a switch for this. Its not hard. I can tell you that the rubber boot for the shifter is right above the solenoid. Thats where i'd run my wires.
*I don't know what'll happen with the PCM if the solenoid is not connected to it. It might throw a code? It can probably be deleted with software though or maybe a resistor like the skip shift.
05-14-2009, 04:15 PM
#4
If you have to make a switch to lock it out manually you won't have any problems. I had to put a switch on mine for when I run my Pro-Shifted trans. It has a modified "solenoid" that blocks 5th, 6th, and reverse.
Larry
Larry
05-14-2009, 05:47 PM
#5
if for some reason you want a alternate wiring method...just wire it direct to the brake pedal switch. It will only open with foot on brake which is a normal thing if stopped and putting in reverse....you don't use the brake shifting ***** out from 4th to 5th :-)
on f-body with factory wiring if it is a stick car is disables the solonoid after 3 MPH
on f-body with factory wiring if it is a stick car is disables the solonoid after 3 MPH
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07-06-2011, 09:19 PM
#8
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Cute write up for mis information. Even the chime -ins don't really grasp the system. You wasted alot of your time. you have a simple wiring fault.These solenoids never( nearly) mal function. Yours most likely did not either. its way more simple than seems apparent here. The harness in the pick has 2 plugs, white/ black. Look at the solenoid.... it has a black connection/reciever. If you had that white connector( for the skip shift) on the reverse solenoid, it could not work properly. Yes , the connectors are the same. They are color co-ordinated to get them to the correct solenoid but somehow humans err.
