i found this pic and i was wondering if this is even possible? do the pulleys that have arrows pointing to them have to be ribbed? or can they be smooth? like the ones pictured
Both the pulleys you have arrows on are smooth pullies, no ribs.
You could probably route the belt how you have it in the pic, but you may end up with belt slip issues under higher loads or higher RPM's, since there is less contact area for the belt on the crank pulley, water pump, and alternator with that setup. The serpentine system is engineered to provide the proper tension and contact area for each pulley in the operating range, modifying that can cause issues.
Last edited by Wesmanw02; 09-24-2009 at 10:12 PM..
I did a LOT of research and found someone else had the set up I went and did. I had to buy a ribbed idler. See the picture for details. I know this thread is dead but I thought it would be nice for me to add my pic.
i make an idler bracket that locates where the ps use to be. ive had the belt come off like the pic above at high rpm. at around 7200 shift. i think the belt was slipping also and traction for the wp slippin. i prefer more wrap around wp. thats why i designed mine.
"Ive been really thinking about doing this. Question is how long will the power rack last if you delete the pump and loop the lines"
Just wanted to see if anyone every found out anything. My abs is leakinig and figured i would delete it, I didnt know if it was possible without puting the manual rack.
correction: 52.5 inch belt with stock pulley, 51.5 inch belt with an underdrive. that is for the setup in the last pic. exactly how i have mine. my power rack is lasting and i deleted PS 2 yrs ago
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'00 SS A4, Bolt-Ons/Weight Reduction-SOLD
i wouldnt go that far. people do delete it for reasons. frees up a lil power from power being robbed in the serpentine system and frees up room as well and a lil weight as well. more people do this for racing purposes
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'00 SS A4, Bolt-Ons/Weight Reduction-SOLD
There is no way thats enough belt wrap for the water pump. I know its easy to spin by hand but thats not the case at higher RPM's when you're moving a large volume of water. Its going to slip, you may not hear it right away, but once the belt glazes over it will scream.
There is no way thats enough belt wrap for the water pump. I know its easy to spin by hand but thats not the case at higher RPM's when you're moving a large volume of water. Its going to slip, you may not hear it right away, but once the belt glazes over it will scream.
yes, this is true also. i havent exactly heard mine 'scream' but the print on the backside of the belt is rubbing off. exactly another reason im going to an EWP with just a belt from the crank to the alt only
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'00 SS A4, Bolt-Ons/Weight Reduction-SOLD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesmanw02
There is no way thats enough belt wrap for the water pump. I know its easy to spin by hand but thats not the case at higher RPM's when you're moving a large volume of water. Its going to slip, you may not hear it right away, but once the belt glazes over it will scream.
I have been running mine like that for almost two years and haven't had a single problem. My car is more of a weekend toy but it does see more street duty than track time, not to mention it also sees the shift light at 7K atleast once everytime it's out
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2000 LPM Z28 M6 -- Stock with a lid, Daily Driver, Bluecat Tuned
2002 CETA A3--#2074 of 2390-- Carb'd, TH350, 12 bolt, some extras, still a little 346 and only 44K miles
^^^mines also been on for 2 yrs and its not a big issue to worry about anything. ive never had any sort of problem running the short belt mod. even if it does slip on the WP pulley a lil, not enough to effect ANYTHING. so for those of u that wanna do this, belt slipping is no big issue to keep u from running a short belt
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'00 SS A4, Bolt-Ons/Weight Reduction-SOLD