I've been searching throughout the site, finding tidbits of information all over, but for the most part, found that it's probably going to be easier to just ask in the newbie area.
I haven't bought an fbody yet, but I'm trying to do some research as far as what I'd like to do to for when I do. I'm looking for just a basic bolt on car, and had a few questions.
First off - maintanance. I just sold all of my dsms, and know the importance of it for those cars, and how stuff goes to shit fast when not properly taken care of. What should I look out for? When I get the car, I'll do a full fluid flush, etc but what else needs attention?
For sure items to be on the car before this...
Lid/CAI
LT's, probably ebay
Shiftkit
Automatic Trans cooler
LS6 intake
Suspension? Thinking subframe connectors at least, don't know how far I should go considering I do plan on
Items I'm not sure if it would be worth doing for something bolt on such as this...
Aftermarket T/B
U/D pulleys (had some on a different car, hated it because of lights, etc, dimming at idle)
I'll probably get an automatic, just because the ones I have found are normally a bit cheaper, and I don't mind it. From what I have seen, it's a good idea to try to match the cam/stall with each other. My preference would be top end power, but not doesn't really make a big difference to me, just want the times. I'm not looking for a crazy cam/stall combo, more like something budget minded and still enough to not be wasting money put into it. What should I look into as far as both of those? And also, what should be used along with the cam?
For exhaust...I know pretty much anything other than lt's are a waste of money, but my question is, after the lt's, what should I do to safely dump the exhuast? I've seen that running open headers can cause o2 sensors to shit out, but I couldn't find too much on what I should use to do before the dump(s). Just throw a y pipe on and dump it from the single pipe, or could I run pipes straight back just to give it a little bit more room to prevent failing o2 sensors?
Down the road, I'd like to do the 5.3 head swap, I know it requires a little bit of playing with, but for the price, I don't think it can be beaten. What can I look at as far as a price range to swap these out? When I do this, I'd like to do it right, arp head studs, new gaskets, etc.
As far as a tune...I'm fairly close to Speed Inc, and saw that their reg. tunes cost about $150, would I be alright throwing everything listed above (minus the heads) and driving it for a while until I do get it tuned (within a reasonable time of course)
Congrats on deciding to switch over from DSMs over to the world of LS1s. You'll be much happier here. For the fluids, you need to constantly change out the clutch fluid if you regularly do high speed shifts, it dirties quickly.
Although AT's are cheaper, I would still lean towards a M6 trans, it is much more fun to drive and I believe you can play with the gearing a bit more. ATs are easier to launch in the 1/4 mile but that's about it.
You've got the right idea for the exhaust however I would still recommend running True Duals, that is the best way to make power on these motors. And yes, you'll be fine without a tune on it until you get the heads on.
I've been searching throughout the site, finding tidbits of information all over, but for the most part, found that it's probably going to be easier to just ask in the newbie area.
I haven't bought an fbody yet, but I'm trying to do some research as far as what I'd like to do to for when I do. I'm looking for just a basic bolt on car, and had a few questions.
First off - maintanance. I just sold all of my dsms, and know the importance of it for those cars, and how stuff goes to shit fast when not properly taken care of. What should I look out for? When I get the car, I'll do a full fluid flush, etc but what else needs attention?
For sure items to be on the car before this...
Lid/CAI
LT's, probably ebay
Shiftkit
Automatic Trans cooler
LS6 intake
Suspension? Thinking subframe connectors at least, don't know how far I should go considering I do plan on
Items I'm not sure if it would be worth doing for something bolt on such as this...
Aftermarket T/B
U/D pulleys (had some on a different car, hated it because of lights, etc, dimming at idle)
I'll probably get an automatic, just because the ones I have found are normally a bit cheaper, and I don't mind it. From what I have seen, it's a good idea to try to match the cam/stall with each other. My preference would be top end power, but not doesn't really make a big difference to me, just want the times. I'm not looking for a crazy cam/stall combo, more like something budget minded and still enough to not be wasting money put into it. What should I look into as far as both of those? And also, what should be used along with the cam?
For exhaust...I know pretty much anything other than lt's are a waste of money, but my question is, after the lt's, what should I do to safely dump the exhuast? I've seen that running open headers can cause o2 sensors to shit out, but I couldn't find too much on what I should use to do before the dump(s). Just throw a y pipe on and dump it from the single pipe, or could I run pipes straight back just to give it a little bit more room to prevent failing o2 sensors?
Down the road, I'd like to do the 5.3 head swap, I know it requires a little bit of playing with, but for the price, I don't think it can be beaten. What can I look at as far as a price range to swap these out? When I do this, I'd like to do it right, arp head studs, new gaskets, etc.
As far as a tune...I'm fairly close to Speed Inc, and saw that their reg. tunes cost about $150, would I be alright throwing everything listed above (minus the heads) and driving it for a while until I do get it tuned (within a reasonable time of course)
Sorry for the novel, but thanks guys!
good idea to make sure the car is properly maintained and running well first. also, good to start off with a basic bolt ons and a some suspension work. but if i were you, i do the basic bolt ons like a lid, longtube headers, and a catback. then i would seriouisly consider beefing the transmission and getting a converter and beefing up the rear end for a 12 bolt. then i would go looking for a nice H/C combo.
__________________ 2002 Z/28- advanced auto parts lid, autozone longtube headers/ory, napa auto "X" cam, oreilly ported & polished heads, tornado fuel saver TB, target true duals, costco 9" cowlhood, tinted with black tape, level 6 tranny built by sam's club, AAFES drag welds, AAFES drag radials, walmart rollback roller rockers,..
DSM's are great if you are comfortable working on your car and for what they are. When built right and maintained, it's arguably the best 4 cylinder platform out there. I got mine because I couldn't get an ls1 (price/my age) at the time. Now that I've sold off all of my dsms and parts, I want to move to the platform that originally got me into cars.
For beefing up the trans, other than a shift kit/stall/tranny cooler, what else can I do? I'd rather not rebuild it anytime soon. As far as a4/m6, I'm not really too worried what I get, so far it's been easier to find autos, and clutches get expensive. I've never really driven a higher hp car with a manual trans (dsm had a ipt auto awd trans), and would rather not burn through a few clutches till I get the hang of it.
As far as exhaust, when I do anything, it'll be lt's and dumps, not gonna mess with catback, etc, less money to spend, less weight on the car (not a big difference on a basic bolt on car, but still), and I love dumped lsx's. I just need to know if I should buy a y pipe/x pipe, or if I can get away SAFELY with just extended pipes straight back.
As far as suspension, what should I look into? The threads I keep reading tell me to pretty much go all out, but I'm not looking to spend that kind of money on suspension anytime soon, and just want the bare necessities to hook halfway decent.
Texas Speed offers a pretty good x pipe with mufflers that dumps before the axle. Lanes true duals are a good option as well. If you know a good local exhaust shop, they could probably make it though. A4's are kind of weak on these cars in stock form...so if you are going to get a converter, I would definitely recommend the biggest one you could get and a shift kit (transgo is nice). Clutches are expensive, but you don't burn through them much in these cars in my experience. Monster is a great choice for a clutch. As far as suspension, torque arm, lcas, rear shocks, and some decent tires should be fine for now.
__________________
SLP smooth bellows for sale
MTI polished TB for sale
Edelbrock STB for sale
Texas Speed offers a pretty good x pipe with mufflers that dumps before the axle. Lanes true duals are a good option as well. If you know a good local exhaust shop, they could probably make it though. A4's are kind of weak on these cars in stock form...so if you are going to get a converter, I would definitely recommend the biggest one you could get and a shift kit (transgo is nice). Clutches are expensive, but you don't burn through them much in these cars in my experience. Monster is a great choice for a clutch. As far as suspension, torque arm, lcas, rear shocks, and some decent tires should be fine for now.
Link? I couldn't find it on their website, maybe I'm stupid....
Like I said in my previous post. Minimal converter, cooler, shiftkit. There's alot of vendors on here that make excellent transmissions that you could use. RPM,FLT, Performabuilt, etc. Just check the sponsor links =>
__________________
SLP smooth bellows for sale
MTI polished TB for sale
Edelbrock STB for sale
DSM's are great if you are comfortable working on your car and for what they are. When built right and maintained, it's arguably the best 4 cylinder platform out there. I got mine because I couldn't get an ls1 (price/my age) at the time. Now that I've sold off all of my dsms and parts, I want to move to the platform that originally got me into cars.
For beefing up the trans, other than a shift kit/stall/tranny cooler, what else can I do? I'd rather not rebuild it anytime soon. As far as a4/m6, I'm not really too worried what I get, so far it's been easier to find autos, and clutches get expensive. I've never really driven a higher hp car with a manual trans (dsm had a ipt auto awd trans), and would rather not burn through a few clutches till I get the hang of it.
As far as exhaust, when I do anything, it'll be lt's and dumps, not gonna mess with catback, etc, less money to spend, less weight on the car (not a big difference on a basic bolt on car, but still), and I love dumped lsx's. I just need to know if I should buy a y pipe/x pipe, or if I can get away SAFELY with just extended pipes straight back.
As far as suspension, what should I look into? The threads I keep reading tell me to pretty much go all out, but I'm not looking to spend that kind of money on suspension anytime soon, and just want the bare necessities to hook halfway decent.
Again, thanks.
If money is an option, why worry about the suspension upgrades? You are pretty much along the same path as me. I've just done all the exhaust upgrades (I use my catback ironically to quiet the car at night in the neighborhood). Unless you are really going to hit the turns hard and fast, I don't see a huge need to do anything to the suspension accept perhaps very basic mods. These cars handle great as they are. This of course assumes you are not going all hard core where upgraded suspension may be required. I'm just enjoying the car as a street rod so to speak and will continue to add power to it.
I don't drive nuts though, so I am not overly concerned about upgraded suspension, and I don't have enough power to shake the hell out of the frame.
This of course coming froma newb myself so what I say may hold no relevance in true performance... but if on a budget, don't necessarily think you HAVE to upgrade the suspension.
Oh, get a WS6, it comes with an upgraded suspension to begin with over the regulard Firebird TA.
__________________ 2000 Trans Am WS6
HP: 338 rwhp
Max Torque: 350
MODS: SLP Air lid, Hooker longtube headers, Borla Catback with QTP cutout
I know you've probably read this, and if you're like me you re-read it about once a week, but this link So You Wanna Be Fast... has greatly helped me in planning my mods and the order in which I need to add things.
Other than that, I'm too much of a newb myself to give advice lol.
__________________ 00 Z28 M6 NBM - Flowmasters (Ugh...) and lid is all at the moment.
The biggest thing you need to look out for is cars that have been modified. IF it was the current owner, find out as much as you can. Personally the lower milage, the better, and the more unmolested the better your off.
For example tuners on Automatic (A4) cars will turn down, or completely turn off Torque Management in the PCM (tune), and this benefits A4 cars since the power is not dialed back. IMO with the 4L60e transmission, this makes them automatically suspect for future failure. Be aware and ask questions. If the car has a stall in anyway above stock, it should have an external cooler. If it does not. Walk away.
The rear ends which are a GM 7.5" rear is always suspect. Originally put into S-10's and honestly always a trouble spot. If you hear any sigifigant noise (see Whine) walk away, or be prepared for a rebuild/replacement.
Another thing to look out for is LS1 springs with in regards to milage and what rev limiter the car has, also see if it was raised.
After which point general matience like said, is always good. Most times stock factory brakes need to be replaced, dont bother cutting them as they are useually fubar'ed.
As for mods, decide what you want to do. I have this crazy straight line street/strip car thing going on here so I am not the role model but bolt on mods never hurt. Speed inc is a great company/sponsor.
Just decide what you want to do and then we can recommend parts. I always say if the parts can be reused if the project changes, all the better. Nothing worse then rebuying parts.
__________________ 2002 Navy Blue Metallic Trans Am.
Pullin both wheels w/ 1.75 60's
Dude's talking about doing heads/cam. That's gonna be good for ~450whp, if he has any desire of putting the power to the ground, he's gonna need some suspension.
__________________
SLP smooth bellows for sale
MTI polished TB for sale
Edelbrock STB for sale
Dude's talking about doing heads/cam. That's gonna be good for ~450whp, if he has any desire of putting the power to the ground, he's gonna need some suspension.
Re-read the OP
I haven't bought an fbody yet, but I'm trying to do some research as far as what I'd like to do to for when I do. I'm looking for just a basic bolt on car, and had a few questions.
As well as the rest.
DEPENDING on the transmission he chooses, suspension requirements change greatly. Also depends if he actual goes to a track or just street drives it. There are some big "IF"s there.
__________________ 2002 Navy Blue Metallic Trans Am.
Pullin both wheels w/ 1.75 60's
I'll probably get an automatic, just because the ones I have found are normally a bit cheaper, and I don't mind it. From what I have seen, it's a good idea to try to match the cam/stall with each other. I'm not looking for a crazy cam/stall combo, more like something budget minded and still enough to not be wasting money put into it. What should I look into as far as both of those? And also, what should be used along with the cam?
Down the road, I'd like to do the 5.3 head swap, I know it requires a little bit of playing with, but for the price, I don't think it can be beaten. What can I look at as far as a price range to swap these out? When I do this, I'd like to do it right, arp head studs, new gaskets, etc.
He's wanting boltons and h/c from the looks of it, and if he wants to go that far, it would be advisable to plan his mods for his future mods...
__________________
SLP smooth bellows for sale
MTI polished TB for sale
Edelbrock STB for sale
Heads/cam won't be for a while down the road, I should have been more specific, but yes, for the next year and a half or so, it's just gonna be a full bolt on car at most until I get out of school, I still need this to be able to drive every day without any issues.
The cars I have been looking at are all mostly stock, I know the "dangers" of buying a car that has been modified by someone else, and in dsm's, the ill effects are at least twice as bad.
But to get back on topic, I was wondering if there really is just one, maybe two things that greatly help getting traction in the suspension area that isn't horribly priced. If not, then suspension can wait.
As far the the transmissions for the most part being a ticking time bomb, I see that there are a lot of transmission sponsors on here, but as far as what I want to put in later on down the road... I have no idea. It'll (hopefully) be later on down the road, but is there a "transmission choice" thread around I'm guessing? There are a shit ton of choices, I just have no idea what would be suitable for what I want, GM tranny codes might as well be French for all I know about them. From how much you are saying about the auto's, I'm starting to really think about just looking for a 6 speed.
I will be taking this to the track a few times during the summer, I live about 15 minutes away from one, and I enjoy bracket racing.
And thanks for all the responses, I wasn't expecting near this many.
Edit: Just got off the phone with the dealership that has the car I want, '99 z28, 81k miles, A4, NBM with some zo6 rims, bone stock for $5,950, I'll post some pics if I end up getting it this weekend. Perfect price range for what I want, the body looks pretty good, decent mileage, etc, as long as it doesn't get sold before the weekend when I can pick it up, it's mine!
Last edited by hawaiifiveoh; 11-10-2009 at 11:30 AM..
He's wanting boltons and h/c from the looks of it, and if he wants to go that far, it would be advisable to plan his mods for his future mods...
You still need a car before you make a plan.
I can give him a hundred different options.
It is best to keep it "high view" when discussing the car and doing bolt ons that do not need to be redone is def good advice as all of it will benefit the H/C set up and as he just stated, it will be down the line.
MY advice is determine the budget, and whether you do all your own work.
My advice can range from ported 243 castings up to a aftermarket casting like a ETP or TFS. As for cam, there are new designs coming out all the time and depending if he does heads or not, he can get to 450 pretty easy so as long as the car has the supporting mods.
As for suspension/rear etc etc
Stall: 4,000 (Circle-D, Yank, Pro Torque, Vigi)
Cooler: largest you can find
Transmission: Check with sponsors or IMO look at a 4L80e swap which is not cheap but will give the strength of a TH-400 and Overdrive.
Bolt ons: Lid, headers, cat back, a off road pipe if you want or see what is avalible depending on the brand of header your looking at. Also Def at least a LS6 intake if between 97-2000 (ls1 engine specific).
Rearend: Start saving for at least a 12 bolt. Auto cars let the rear live longer but you start doing faster then 1.7's in the 60, it will eventually die.
Suspension: With a auto you can do alot with stock stuff. just a good set of tires, Drag radials still work well. Look at BMR and UMI for these. Def do sub frames. Then look at LCA's and a TQ arm (all adjustible), WHEN you start racing, then a suspension set up can be more finely tuned in.
Like state before, you need to get there 1st before you decide where to go next.
__________________ 2002 Navy Blue Metallic Trans Am.
Pullin both wheels w/ 1.75 60's
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