09-30-2009, 06:11 PM
#1 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
Msd window switch Trying to figure out where I get the rpm signal from. Is it the blue connector, white wire pin 35 on the pcm? If so....where is that? Help me some here.
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
09-30-2009, 06:34 PM
#2 LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 1,304
Here is an alternate ( Easier ) location to pull for the Tach
Male side of the plug top row of wires second from the left
Hope this helps
-Chris
09-30-2009, 06:42 PM
#3 TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,381
That is what I have done for the last several nitrous installs. Have not had a problem out of it.
__________________ We spend thousands of dollars on our cars...don't offer $50 races
If all you have is a few bucks, then stay home and come out when you can afford it
09-30-2009, 07:19 PM
#4 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
Same for 98 cars? Do I just strip some of the wire back and solder the wire from the msd on?
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
09-30-2009, 10:37 PM
#5 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
Also, how do I test the noids with the window switch wired in?
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
09-30-2009, 11:24 PM
#6 TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 353
To test you can feel them and rev the car. You should feel them open and close. If you want proof you can make a mess and put your nozzle in a bottle or something so that it isn't blowing into your motor. Then you would see the fuel and nitrous coming out.
Feeling them should be plenty good but it is up to you.
P.S. Other ways would be to test with a volt meter to see if you get juice
(power not nitrous)at the noids, take it for a spin around the block.
10-01-2009, 11:19 AM
#7 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
So I am going to rev it to 3200 in the garage with hand on the noids? Lol that should be interesting.
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
10-01-2009, 11:43 AM
#8 TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 353
I rev often with my noids in my hands.
10-01-2009, 08:35 PM
#9 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
So how do I hold the noids, rev the car and trigger the wot switch....
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
10-01-2009, 10:30 PM
#10 12 Second Club
2001 Chevrolet Camaro
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ur girls bed....
Posts: 179
__________________
Pacesetters Lts, Tsp true duals, Ms3, tuned by Clint @ A.I.R, TH400 and some spray here and there.....
And I love my Magic prick SStroker Ace
540Hp/536TQ
Best run of 11.72@120 with a 6800 DA
sound clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1KBVophu5o
10-05-2009, 08:53 PM
#11 TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 353
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Chris@NitroDaves Here is an alternate ( Easier ) location to pull for the Tach
Male side of the plug top row of wires second from the left
Hope this helps
-Chris
I have a 2001 GMC truck does anyone know if this wire is the same for me?
10-06-2009, 04:02 PM
#12 LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 1,304
It's the same but might be a different color wire. I've seen them Solid Green - Light Green w/ White Tracer - Turquoise
10-06-2009, 05:27 PM
#13 TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 353
passanger side or drivers? or will either side work?
10-06-2009, 05:51 PM
#14 LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 1,304
passenger side
10-11-2009, 10:25 PM
#15 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
So how exactly do I connect these wires? Whatever i did the car runs like shit now.
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
10-12-2009, 06:09 AM
#16 TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 353
My wire was green with a white tracer like you said.
Did you split the wire for tach input? Maybe you didn't get a good connection of the original wire. Ideally you want to use a pair of automatic strippers that will just cut the insulation and open it up a bit.
10-12-2009, 08:36 AM
#17 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
Yea I soldered it on, the connection is good.
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
10-12-2009, 12:07 PM
#18 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
I took the wire off, car runs fine/ It started throwing a code from that wire.
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
10-12-2009, 03:52 PM
#19 11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Dayton, Oh
Posts: 1,173
Ok that picture must be wrong for 98 cars. I wired into the white wire, pin 35 on the blue connector. Works perfectly and no codes.
__________________ 98 Trans Am-Sold
98 Formula- Bolt ons
n/a 12.33@109.74, n2o 11.37@120.65
10-12-2009, 05:46 PM
#20 TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,294
Hurry up Sam so you could hook up a kit for me! Oh btw will be at that place 2morrow (tues) around 9:30ish-10
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off