jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

It's called fuel puddling in the intake when their isn't enough air moving through. That is why people don't spray wet kits below 3000. Do people do it? Yes. But people also bang hookers without wrapping their junk. That doesn't make it right, and certainly isn't solid advice.

SY732

Here are a few posts talking about spraying below 3,000:

1. listen VERY carfully when the light goes green.........i tend to spray kinda early

2. Ive sprayed loads below 3000 rpm - nothing bad has ever happened

3. I've backfired so many times at low RPMs I can't even count them. Fortuently I have an aluminum intake manifold, and nothing really happens. I just drive through it.

If I had a plastic LS1 manifold, I'd be a lot more carefull on that lower limit. It totally sucks when a plastic manifold gets blown to pieces, damaging everythng including the hood.

4. i'm one for the hit it as soon as you get it guys. i've hit it as low as 1500 rpms at the track with DRs and stock converter. it spun the tires. hooked at 1800 rpms. this was a 150 compucar kit.

5. now, this also needs to be qualified with a what gear are you in question. in first gear, with the rpms climbing approximately 1000 rpms/second, the air is moving pretty darned fast to be an issue. now in drive and at 2000 rpms, it can be an issue.

another thing to consider is transmission. with a manual transmission, if you launch and the motor bogs to the point where the motor can't rpm upward fast enough, you might be having a problem.

6. your car, most likely, has the even worse 2.73 gear in it. still, if it was my car, i'd go with 2500 as a starting point. then go down from there as your heart and wallet allow. the NOS system for TBI cars comes with jetting up to 125hp.

7. I'm spraying 100 wet at 2700, alot of posts I've read and magazine articles, tell you to shy away from spraying below 2500 rpms. I've had my A/F mixture checked with the spray and am as safe as you can be with using the spray. If your gonna play with the spray, your gonna most likely end up someday having to pay.

8. I spray my stock convertered car right out of the hole. Alot of good points have been made, but I use a progressive controller, which eliminates any torque spike, adding a nice safety margin. I still feel the worst thing that could happen is a bog(too much traction?) which will undoubtedly cause big problems... Most likely a six-speed issue however.
And why wait till the cam comes 'on' to spray? My sluggish bottom end aint sluggish at all once I hit the magic button! Keep sprayin

9. I don't recommend it, but I used to do it all the time. I had a DRY 150 on a handheld pushbutton, as soon the light went last yellow my foot went to the floor and the button was pushed. I'm guessing I was activating it right at 2000 rpms on the stock stall and never had a problem. It was good for 11.3's on an otherwise stock '98 SS at 3550 lbs! But again, I don't recommend it!

10. i tell you what i had an 86 iroc with a 305 TPI motor in it with headers, small cam and a chip and sprayed a 125 dry shot out of the hole.... stock converter 700r4 for 4 years... and then i pulled the motor for a bigger one... i street raced every night and ran atleast 3 bottles through it a week and never had a problem.

11. In an automatic car with a stock stall, go for it. On the other hand, if you have a stick and are thinking that its gonna be okay to spray from 2500rpm on up in 6th gear your gonna **** some **** up.

12. i spray mine preety much right out of the hole i roll out a lil in 1st but when i hit it i usually spin a lil so that helps.

13. i spray my truck out of the hole all the time. i have sprayed a 200 shot a few times but usually i'll stick with 150. traction is a issue as of late so i wait till i am hooked and then i spray. if my engine breaks from nitrous then so be it. i'm not gonna cry. i'll just build a new one

14. have sprayed cars as low as 1800. we normally would do it on an auto with a tight convertor that is not hitting the tirees hard enough. if you get the juice in early and it makes the vertor flash harder

15. With my LT1 T56 setup, just a hotcam and shorty headers, I sprayed out of the hole ALL the time. As bad as this may sound to this thread, I actually bogged the car intentionally and used the spray to get me out of the bog.

16. with the LT1's we sprayed 150-200 outta the hole with stock converters all the time. Never used a button, always used a wot switch. As soon as the light dropped, was on the floor with spray on, never hurt anything even when it bogged a couple times.

17. Roll off the line and activate. No problems with the motor. So far the tranny has gone south, 1 set of gears, and 1 carrier.

18. With the stock convertor and stock 2.73 gears my car wouldn't get out of the hole quick enough unless I started the spray below 3K. I took it as low as 2300, never had any problems

19. i didn't read the whole thread but have something to share. i have a dry shot and spray a 125-175shot at 2200rpm. 2200rpm is exactly the rpm i can brake stall to easily and i want the nitrous to hit as soon as i floor it. i have a few hundred runs doing this with no problems.

20 My actual experience (since you asked) is this. Started out with a 150 shot on a completely stock car. At first I didn't even use a WOT switch, just a button. Technique was leaving off idle. That worked fine but I would usually roll out 5-10ft before hitting the button. I knew that if I wanted to see really gain in my 60 and ET that it needed to be hit instantly off the line. I switched to a WOT switch and the end result was awsome. It took a few practice runs to get it right because you've got to be very quick about getting your foot to the floor fast, or else there will still be some hesistation. You'll actually start to roll out before the nitrous engages.

Before my WOT switch I would general 60 in the 1.7-1.8 range. My best after the switch was a 1.63 with norms in the mid-high 1.6's. This on a stock conv. 2.73 car leaving off idle.

Ran the car at the track every weekend and drove it daily during the week for over 2 years with no problems.

21. 3000 isnt a magic #. Its not like at 3000 youll be fine and then 2999 youll blow up instantly.

So if you want to spray in the lower rpms..for whatever reason. i would just say you need to plot your goals and go over your plan with a fine tooth comb. You should be able to predict the outcome pretty closely. Then you need to think about wether that will work with pump gas and what tune. Because ultimately the octane requirements are a function of peak Tq and never peak HP. You need octane to cover your highest peak Tq since that is generally your most detonation prone area with nitrous (unless you have too much timing in another area).

In other words...if you were running a 175 shot at 3000 rpm....on pump gas and stock tune and made 575 rwtq and 525 rwhp and where just fine. Then you change the activation point to 1500 rpm...your peak Tq will go WAY up but HP will remian exactly the same. Tq would probably go over 650-700 rwtq and may well put in into an area where detonation start right at activation. and if you were on the edge before...that intital detonation at 1500-1700 rpm may continue throughout the rest of the rpm range...dooming your motor.

So if you want to spray lower than 3000 rpm....just think about the size of the shot, wet or dry, cubic inches of the motor, M6 or big stall auto, etc etc. And estimate what you think you could get away with.

75 dry on a 6.0 truck at 2000 rpm...sure..why not.

A 200 wet on a stock LS1 with a t56 in 3rd gear at 1800 rpm....not very wise.
Read the complete thread

22. Spray my 1st stage at 1200 rpms .... Dry shot

23. a4, 4.10's we just foot brake it. no window switch just a WOT switch. So its on right from the dig. Holy hell of a 60ft ill telly ou that much!

24. i hit it right around 1800- 2000 as long as i hook. no window or wot switch

25. I was spraying 150 shotout of the hole with a wide open switch. I did this on a 2500 stall and now on my 3600. I just installed a mallory 685 today and set it for between 3000-6300 but I'm considering 2500-6300.

26 wow you got some traction issues with that thing. i sprayed a 125 out of the hole and got a 1.9 60ft on street tires and left off idle. with an LO3 i should add.

27 i spray with a 150 shot right off the line with a 1.58 60ft time so does that answer your qustion

Wow I am tired

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

That's alotta quotin' Alot of those have nothing to do with this guys situation. Still, take out the LT1's, T-56's and stalled/geared threads and there are a couple of good posts.


I still think with his mods and a wet kit, he is asking for puddling if he drops his activation point. I can't tell you that I don't spray from the hit, but I accept those risks. I still don't think it's sound advice for his car. The OP needs to do a couple things: get some supporting mods ie. longtubes, gears, or a stall or practice different launch techniques. Maybe footbrake it up on the stall a little more, to start with a little higher RPM. Just my .02

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

^^^ wow...thats alot of quotes...of course my long winded *** was in there...lol.

Anyways...just get a stall. Get gears in addition to a stall if you arent on a budget...but between a stall and gears...choose a stall everytime. Plenty of people running very good 60fts with a good stall and 2.73 gears. 3000 stall minimum.

StngKlr

iTrader: (18)

Spraying below 3000 rpm's is widley considered not safe. The risk is not worth the reward when it comes down to it.

Just get a converter that will flash to 3000+ off the line and dont worry about it. A good converter will make up for an anemic 2.73 geared rearend and be decent on the street too.

Your MPH says you have the horsepower now, just make better use of it.

4K+Converter

Do you have a purge kit? The bog could be that you're getting all fuel off the line until the air bleeds out of the system.

Z2K_MrJ

Yes I have a Purge..I did use it However I belive i have figured out why I had such a Crappy launch thanks tho

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

well do tell?

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

Exactly!!!

Z2K_MrJ

Basically My car was not making enough power off the line at 1200 RPM. And having To much Rubber sticking to the Track would cause my car to Just BOGG out,, Which explains my Painfull "Ets" Next time ill leave more PSI in the tires and get myself a Stall.. LOL or I could go back to Using my "Snowflakes"

SY732

Stall it to 1500 or as high as you can do the N rev trick if needed.

Dont go too far with the tires or you may spin when the N20 hits.

I have the same problem with Drag Radials on the motor my car is slower but once I spray (out of the hole) hold on

12.8 at 112 on the motor
11.8 at 121 on the 75 shot

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

thats what I would think too. Stall it up and drop that 60 foot!