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11-03-2008, 10:20 AM
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#1 | | Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: peoria, Arizona
Posts: 34
|  custom interior painting
Ok after doing a search, I know this topic has been beaten to death but I want to know what the proper way to paint the interior pieces. I'm going to paint my center console radio bezel, speaker grilles, and possibly where the door handle and window switches are if i can do it right. What is the correct order of events, including what specific grit to use. Im not looking for sema quality, just something that's going to last a long time. The interior is black, and I'll be doing a nice deep bright gold. And what is wet sanding?
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11-03-2008, 10:56 AM
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#2 | | TECH Resident
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: SE Michigan, where people fall out of the sky and land in my front yard...
Posts: 908
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I wouldn't worry about sanding them, just clean them real good and hit them with some quality primer and auto paint. I may get mine done body color, my body guy said he just did a couple sets and they turned out great.
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11-03-2008, 11:35 AM
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#3 | | Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: peoria, Arizona
Posts: 34
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well that's what i did on my old t/a and after they dried, if they flexed at all, the paint would flake off and it would look like crap
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Last edited by LWCS561; 11-03-2008 at 11:36 AM..
Reason: curse
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11-03-2008, 01:13 PM
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#4 | | TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2007 Location: Jackson, TN
Posts: 528
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If you're looking for that smooth fiberglassed custom look, you'll need to sand the plastic smooth first. Here's how I did mine.
I started by sanding the bare plastic with 400 grit. This is a bit fine for the job, but you don't want snadpaper scratches showing thru the paint. A coat or two of filler primer will help you get everything really smooth followed by a coat of sandable primer sanded nice and flat and smooth with 800 grit. (I used rattle cans for the whole project, by the way.) Then you apply your color coat. If it's spray can, let it dry well for a day and then wet sand it flat and smooth with 1000 grit. When you wet sand, keep a bucket of water near and constantly dip the sand paper in it. You don't want anything dry as you go, keep that in mind. Use the water to rinse the sanding dust (it'll look like wet dust if you're keeping it wet.) When you're done sanding this step, wash the parts with dish soap and water and let em dry COMPLETELY! After it's dry apply a couple coats of clear. Keep in mind that these parts get touched and will get worn on so apply as many coats of clear as you feel will keep the paint safe. I've noticed that the spray clear you can get at a parts store wil get the spray texture back after a week, so what I do it leave the clear unsanded and put the parts back on for a week. Then pull em out and wet sand with 2000 grit until the paint looks like there isn't any low spots (these will look dark and glossy as your sanding scuffs the clear.) Finish by hand buffing with a rag and 3M rubbing compound as many times as needed until you get the mirror-like shine. Then wax and re-install while wearing powder-free latex gloves to keep you hand oil off your nice new shiny parts. Lastly, take a dozen pics and post em up here for the rest of us to admire!  I hope this helps you out. If you need more info, I'm sure someone else will chime in $.02 and you can ask me questions anytime! Happy modding!
Swat
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11-03-2008, 02:54 PM
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#5 | | TECH Resident
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 778
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How did you keep the paint from cracking if the parts flexed? Is there a kind of spray paint that has flex additive in it?
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11-03-2008, 04:01 PM
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#6 | | On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 132
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what interior parts do you want to paint that are flexible??? or for that are meant to flex?? | |
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11-03-2008, 04:05 PM
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#7 | | Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: peoria, Arizona
Posts: 34
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yea that's what happend with mine, my paint would crach after a while, or is it just what type of primer you use or a type of plastic paint bond promoter?
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11-03-2008, 05:05 PM
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#8 | | On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 132
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for starters i would use nothing other than krylon fusion. And after the final coat drys a littler cover it with several coats of clear. And though it may not be necessary some 600 grit sanding before the first spray cant hurt. interior pieces may be easier but the more i see the more im learning with paint work on any car PREP really is King. | |
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11-05-2008, 10:10 PM
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#9 | | Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: MI
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swiat34  If you're looking for that smooth fiberglassed custom look, you'll need to sand the plastic smooth first. Here's how I did mine.
I started by sanding the bare plastic with 400 grit. This is a bit fine for the job, but you don't want snadpaper scratches showing thru the paint. A coat or two of filler primer will help you get everything really smooth followed by a coat of sandable primer sanded nice and flat and smooth with 800 grit. (I used rattle cans for the whole project, by the way.) Then you apply your color coat. If it's spray can, let it dry well for a day and then wet sand it flat and smooth with 1000 grit. When you wet sand, keep a bucket of water near and constantly dip the sand paper in it. You don't want anything dry as you go, keep that in mind. Use the water to rinse the sanding dust (it'll look like wet dust if you're keeping it wet.) When you're done sanding this step, wash the parts with dish soap and water and let em dry COMPLETELY! After it's dry apply a couple coats of clear. Keep in mind that these parts get touched and will get worn on so apply as many coats of clear as you feel will keep the paint safe. I've noticed that the spray clear you can get at a parts store wil get the spray texture back after a week, so what I do it leave the clear unsanded and put the parts back on for a week. Then pull em out and wet sand with 2000 grit until the paint looks like there isn't any low spots (these will look dark and glossy as your sanding scuffs the clear.) Finish by hand buffing with a rag and 3M rubbing compound as many times as needed until you get the mirror-like shine. Then wax and re-install while wearing powder-free latex gloves to keep you hand oil off your nice new shiny parts. Lastly, take a dozen pics and post em up here for the rest of us to admire! I hope this helps you out. If you need more info, I'm sure someone else will chime in $.02 and you can ask me questions anytime! Happy modding!
Swat | Good info! | |
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11-10-2008, 11:00 PM
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#10 | | TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2007 Location: Jackson, TN
Posts: 528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99345hp How did you keep the paint from cracking if the parts flexed? Is there a kind of spray paint that has flex additive in it? | I don't recommend painting the squishy part of the dash or any other padded interior piece. However the hard plastics like the gauge bezel, radio bezel and door handle and switch plates are hard plastic and the little flexing that they do won't crack the paint. Just don't use anything but automotive paint from a spray gun OR Duplicolor Truck/SUV spray paint (which is what I use). The A-pillars, door panels and rear seat walls are a softer plastic and I'd recommend a layer of fiberglass after sanding to ensure you have a rigid, paintable surface. There's another member on here that smoothed and painted those panels, but I haven't asked what his process was.
Swat
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