Decided to take the plunge and paint my 96 Polo Green Firebird, but I cannot seem to get a consensus on the volume of paint required to put three coats of green and then 3 to 5 coats of clear on the entire car - some say one gallon of green, others say 3 quarts, other say 1 quart!
To the car painters out there (BTW - I'm in NC) how much paint should I purchase?
both of my cars that have been painted used just under a gallon. Total repaint on both cars though, so you could probably fudge by with 3 qts. But that's something that I would think you would much rather have too much of than not enough! and good luck
can possibly do it in three quarts but thats really cutting it close, geta gallon nothing worse then runing out in middle of it unless you got your own mixing system
buy 2 quarts then reduce it thats all youll need for the f body.i hardly ever mix more than 2 quarts for an overall.old street rods or bigger trucks ill might have to make more.dont forget to shoot a sealer on her!get a gallon of good clear that will be more than enough.
OK, after two weeks I finished the bodywork (who knew a perfectly straight body had so many issues?!?!), sanded the body (with 220, 320, and finally 400), and I am ready to clean / de-dust the body, tape it up, then shoot it with primer (I think).
Am I forgetting anything?
I want to do this correctly, but I can't help but wonder how Macco can do ALL this (i.e. - Clean, Bodywork, Sand 220, Sand 320, Sand 400, Tape, Prime x 3, De-Tape, Sand 220, Sand 320, Sand 400, Tape again, Colour x 3 or 4, Clear x 4 or 5) in all of three days!
Here are some shots (before the sanding was finished) of what I'm calling the Ugliest Firebird in the WORLD!
OK, after two weeks I finished the bodywork (who knew a perfectly straight body had so many issues?!?!), sanded the body (with 220, 320, and finally 400), and I am ready to clean / de-dust the body, tape it up, then shoot it with primer (I think).
Am I forgetting anything?
I want to do this correctly, but I can't help but wonder how Macco can do ALL this (i.e. - Clean, Bodywork, Sand 220, Sand 320, Sand 400, Tape, Prime x 3, De-Tape, Sand 220, Sand 320, Sand 400, Tape again, Colour x 3 or 4, Clear x 4 or 5) in all of three days!
Here are some shots (before the sanding was finished) of what I'm calling the Ugliest Firebird in the WORLD!
Enjoy!
Are you leaving the rocker moulding off after paint?
It depends on the paint you chose. Some better quality paints cover quicker than others. Most basecoats mix 75%-100% reduction. If you have spoilers and other parts to paint i would get at leat 3 quarts. That amount is almost as much as a gallon so if your budget can handle it get the gallon, That way you have extra in case you need it. Buy a gallon of clear put 3 no more than 4 coats and sand and buff. To much clear will cause trouble down the road.
My rocker moldings are aftermarket - I'm sure it looked good oh, say 13 years ago - but not anymore. So, after I removed them, and filled the holes in the doors and bottom of the body, I decided that a 'cleaner' look was a better look.
I think the car's gonna' look nice after it's all one colour (Polo Green vs. Polo Green + Red + Grey + Silver + Pink!), but right now I just gotta' keep apologizing to my gf and kids (2 Boys - 15 and 12) about The Green Dragon's current state.
I took the pass side mirror off yesterday, and soon I'll get to the DR side mirror too. Now those exterior door / window moldings are giving me 'issues' - I don't want to damange them on removal, but I also don't want to just tape them off.
Has anyone ever successfully removed then re-installed these units? Is there a trick? LMK!
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodscrap
Are you leaving the rocker moulding off after paint?
If your painting all the jams, 3 quarts would do it... But I would be safe and get a gallon of both. I just did my whole car and used just over 2 quarts, but I have been doing it for a long time, and black covers VERY well... Just to throw this in, it looks like you used an air sander? If you are going to prime the whole car, which normally isn't necessary on a straight car, hand sand! I prefer the paint stick to 400, the the scuff pad to 600... Just me though!
__________________ 02 SS... Sprayed, stall, exhaust and whatnot.
i would go with 3 quarts but to keep it on the safe side go with a gallon and after you throw the clear give it like at least 48-72 drying window before you start wet sanding for the compound
My WS6 was painted Copper Kandy with Maple Pearl and we used a gallon of basecoat, 3 quarts and then bought another 2 quarts of Copper Kandy which we sprayed 8 coats of Kandy, and then 4 coats of clear. Here is the end result.
__________________ 1999 WS6 A4//Procharger P1-SC, 3.2" pulley, TR 224/227 cam, 42 lb inj, Walboro 255, LS6 intake, Vig 3200, Hooker LT's, Hooker Y-pipe, Hooker Catback, BMR TrakPak, 17x9.5/17x11 Black ZR1's, 315/35/17 DR's...totaled
2000 WS6 M6. Full Bolt-ons, cam and a lil Nos Dyno Tuned by XXX Motorsports. Totaled
2002 WS6 M6 Bolt-ons, TR 232/234 cam 38,000 miles (new project)
My WS6 was painted Copper Kandy with Maple Pearl and we used a gallon of basecoat, 3 quarts and then bought another 2 quarts of Copper Kandy which we sprayed 8 coats of Kandy, and then 4 coats of clear. Here is the end result.
badazzta00 -
I absolutely luv that front air damm! Did you fab it or purchase it?