i dont know prices in your location but i can tell ya my good friend just got his S2000 back from a frame shop and they charged him about a grand, and he had to supply all the parts. To me yours doesnt look as bad as my buddys. Your radiator is pushed in pretty good but my guess is the frame aint as bad off as you would think it would be.
you can see in the pictures the bottom rad support is up and to the driver side and the driver side rail is all bent in....I have all new parts ie. rad, ac condensor, etc.... just wondering if this is fixable and how intensive it might be...
__________________ 98 ws6 mac mids true duals over the axle with corsa tips torquerv3 cam prc springs hardened pushrods ls2 timing chain ls6 oil pump ported ls6 intake ported stock tb whisper lid bmr torque arm short shifter.
I would say the frame damage looks pretty minor, car should still be straight after, and everything should line up. Pictures from the bottom should help give a better idea.
If there is no damage past the radiator and the hood is ok, I'd say you would end up with a $4000-4500 bill at a good body shop and be back to normal (thats' for everything).
Beleive me I know....
__________________ Pewter 01 WS6 TA: H/C | Stall | Headers/GMMG | 12 Bolt | Slowhawk Tuned *Teaser Clip of cam*
D/D: 04 Bonneville GXP
QUOTE: "The SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, the WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it!"
i need a fender a hood a bumper cover and head light lids....i got a new bumper, absorber, radiator, ac condensor.....Can this be done without the parts, just straighten it all? and i will put the parts back on? or do shops want/need the parts.
__________________ 98 ws6 mac mids true duals over the axle with corsa tips torquerv3 cam prc springs hardened pushrods ls2 timing chain ls6 oil pump ported ls6 intake ported stock tb whisper lid bmr torque arm short shifter.
A good shop will fit the parts as they go, assemble it, and then take it off for paint.
Problem is most good shops like to order the parts themselves, that is how they make their $. (usually doesn't matter as insurance covers it)
I am sure the shop with straighten the frame if thats' all you want, but they won't guarentee lines and fitment to a certain threshold if you do everything else yourself.
I guess you should talk to them and set some expectations. Good luck with it. It's a shame anybodys ride gets messed up.
__________________ Pewter 01 WS6 TA: H/C | Stall | Headers/GMMG | 12 Bolt | Slowhawk Tuned *Teaser Clip of cam*
D/D: 04 Bonneville GXP
QUOTE: "The SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, the WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it!"
you guys make it sound so GOOD!!! thank you so much, how much time for a good body shop to do this... and no body as really said, if body shops Prefer to have allll the parts... or can they jus straighten and pull it.
__________________ 98 ws6 mac mids true duals over the axle with corsa tips torquerv3 cam prc springs hardened pushrods ls2 timing chain ls6 oil pump ported ls6 intake ported stock tb whisper lid bmr torque arm short shifter.
Depends on how busy the shop is, but I would expect atleast 2 weeks, month tops. Don't pressure the shop on time though, stress that you want it done right.
__________________ Pewter 01 WS6 TA: H/C | Stall | Headers/GMMG | 12 Bolt | Slowhawk Tuned *Teaser Clip of cam*
D/D: 04 Bonneville GXP
QUOTE: "The SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, the WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it!"
That definetly needs a rail and core support. You can say just give it a pull but you really cant risk its structure. That would fall back on the shop if you had another accident and got hurt they would be held liable. With that much damage its most likely gonna be totalled. I'd hate to say that but I've done a few of these cars and they seem sensitive when you dont have everything lined up exactly right. I did and SS that I had to repair the rail and it didnt line up as well as it used too because it pushed the core support pretty good too.
__________________ 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 M6: Wilson 95mm TB, FAST 92mm intake manifold, SLP lid, Jethot coated Pacesetter longtubes, Corsa catback, QTP e-cutout, Powerbond 25% U/D pulley, Hurst billet plus shifter with UMI short stick, SPEC stage 2 clutch, Spohn adjustable panhard bar, Spohn adjustable lower control arms, Elite Engineering billet catch can, PSI 232/232 cam, OEM C5 Z06s and a very unique paintjob.
thats a 2 day job to pull and and rad support theres more set up on time then actually work when i do frame work ( very rarely) 9x out of 10 i spend more time getting the car on the machine clamped down and the lasers set up than i do actually pulling the car
__________________ 1999 z28 m6 blue
lid,k&n,85mm mafs,lsx performance tune, pacesetter longtubes, ory, Magna flow,3point sub frame connectors, bmr adjustable control arms, bmr bolt in relocation brackets,bilstein's,spec stage 2 clutch,hurst billet shifter,17x8 eagle alloys
GARASICH COLLISION AND CUSTOMS
that doesnt look so bad, but bad pictures, i cant tell if the frame rails are up or swayed, mine didnt look swayed at all till i had it all apart...
Note: i didnt cut the rad suppourt up, i bought the car with no drive train.
i noticed that a spot weld had pulled underneith the carpet too, but i would have never known unless i pulled the interior, also the P/S rail is up so much it cracked the condensor box. Good luck with the build/fix.
pending on damage, i'm not sure where the point are to measure if the front end is square, if you have pictures of the accident that might help. but that front rail will need to be cut off and a new one welded on, no doubt on that, go and measure the distance between the back of the front tire to a relitivy sold point on the body, if one of the wheels is pushed back it took a good hit. none the less its repairable, it might be easier work with the motor out, its not that much work.
Not too bad, I smashed up the lower radiator support on my car, I ended up just buying the lower radiator support from GM and welding it in myself and painting it silver again.
The driver's rail is hit pretty good. It's hard to see from the pictures if the rails are up or not. If they're not you looking at least 5 hrs. frame labor plus setup and measure.. Which is usually 1.5-2 hrs. at body or frame time, depending on the shop. It all depends on how well the rail pulls, but it might save. You're probably going to need the end replaced at least, and the lower tie bar on the rad. support is done. If the rail pulls out, then yes they can do it with the motor in. I'm not sure off the top of my head where the rail sections in on an f-body, so I can't tell you if they'd have to pull it if it had to be changed, but most likely would.
How bad does my frame look? (Pics!) 
