When I come to a stop the engine starts surging from 500rpm to 1200rpm (usual idle speed is 950 rpm). I'm trying to fix it with HPTuners, but I'm not really sure where to look. Is the IAC decay speed set too high?
How come there isnt any supercharged files yet?
I did a search for supercharged files and found none.
I'm about to get a p1sc1 and it would be nice to have a head start. I'm still planning to take it to Eastside Performance here in CT. for a dyno session and final tweaking... but a head start would help.
There is a bin submitted by "William Henn" for an LS1 with a TR224 on a 114 LSA
The mods listed are:
"slp airbox lid, mass air flow sensor, smooth flow bellows, ls6 intake with egr, titanium retainers, comp cams 918 valve springs, thunder racing: pushrods, 224 / 224 .563/.563 112 lsa cam, quicktime performance headers & off road y-pipe, borla muffler, 4.10 gears"
My mods are the same except I have an LS1 intake, flowmaster, and a 226/226 .585/.585 112 LSA on an XER lobe
Would this tune be a good starting point for me? What about the differences in locations/conditions? (humidity, temperature, altitude, etc) how would I compensate for that?
could be used as a starting point... since your cam characteristics are different, and you have a lesser flowing intake manifold it won't be exact... you'll still want to fine tune it... and make sure your AFR is inline at WOT though
you can copy/paste his values from various tables to your .bin file and it'll show the different areas ... so you can get an idea of what was changed ... regardless though you'll need to log how the car behaves w/the new tune and make normal tuning changes to get everything inline
__________________ Mike Horist
00 WS6 (TA) | 04 WS6 (GTP Comp G)
Mike \\#at&\\ horist \\&dot$\\com
could be used as a starting point... since your cam characteristics are different, and you have a lesser flowing intake manifold it won't be exact... you'll still want to fine tune it... and make sure your AFR is inline at WOT though
you can copy/paste his values from various tables to your .bin file and it'll show the different areas ... so you can get an idea of what was changed ... regardless though you'll need to log how the car behaves w/the new tune and make normal tuning changes to get everything inline
When you say make sure the AFR is inline...
Should I trust the reading the logging gives me or do I need to dyno it or get the wideband add-on?
Which tables can I ignore? (lol I dont even have my own VCM yet but its on it way )
you can verify your AFR at WOT the old fashioned way by relying on narrowband ... they're not very accurate, but I used to shoot for 930/940 at WOT ... but dialing it in on a dyno w/wideband or your own wideband would be safest... at the very least , once you think you have the tune how you want, put it on a dyno for a couple runs w/a wideband just for safety
__________________ Mike Horist
00 WS6 (TA) | 04 WS6 (GTP Comp G)
Mike \\#at&\\ horist \\&dot$\\com
you can verify your AFR at WOT the old fashioned way by relying on narrowband ... they're not very accurate, but I used to shoot for 930/940 at WOT ... but dialing it in on a dyno w/wideband or your own wideband would be safest... at the very least , once you think you have the tune how you want, put it on a dyno for a couple runs w/a wideband just for safety
Thats what I was thinking..
Just fine tune it best I can then verify/correct it on the dyno or buy the wideband.
So what reading do you recommend for a novice(well newbie) tuner?
So what reading do you recommend for a novice(well newbie) tuner?
Everything in this section
For starters, read through the HP Tuners manual (downloadable on their site) , it'll familiarize you with the screens and the various tables you can modify
then I'd read the stiickies in this section
Then go over to the HP Tuners forum and read through their help sections...
There's ALOT of information out there... and it may seem overwhelming at first... just keep in mind you're not going to know how to tune your car overnight... also scan scan scan... scan your car as often as you can , the default log params are good
__________________ Mike Horist
00 WS6 (TA) | 04 WS6 (GTP Comp G)
Mike \\#at&\\ horist \\&dot$\\com
I pick up things that have to do with computers amazingly fast so I'm expecting to eventually get pretty good. Lol I was working with Photoshop, Visual Basic, Visual C++, 3D Studio Max, etc when I was 12. I hope all that experience helps me because Im totally clueless as of right now.
I suppose once I actually have it in my hands and can have something to relate to, and read a bunch, I can at least be on par with my needs at any given time...
you can verify your AFR at WOT the old fashioned way by relying on narrowband ... they're not very accurate, but I used to shoot for 930/940 at WOT ... but dialing it in on a dyno w/wideband or your own wideband would be safest... at the very least , once you think you have the tune how you want, put it on a dyno for a couple runs w/a wideband just for safety
Holy crap. 930/940. Thats way higher than I shoot for. 890/900 is what I shoot for. No detonation. Wideband is definitely best though...
Hey Horist, what do I do if I want to delete the one that I currently have up there and replace it with another. I know that I can add another, but the my new tune is way better than the old one, and I would rather not have it out there anymore. Is there anyway for us to manage the tunes that we already have posted?
Ohh noo.. I went to upload a bunch of bins yesterday "20", and it says my ip address is blocked???
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