I was wondering if there is a way to quickly change the tune at the track without having to use a PC. I get races where people want to race me all-motor instead of nitrous which I don't have a problem doing. Trouble is, this leaves me at a decided disadvantage since my tune is geared for a healty dose of nitrous (ie timing retarded etc etc).
Is there such a device that will allow me to do this? If so, where can I find it?
I was wondering if there is a way to quickly change the tune at the track without having to use a PC. I get races where people want to race me all-motor instead of nitrous which I don't have a problem doing. Trouble is, this leaves me at a decided disadvantage since my tune is geared for a healty dose of nitrous (ie timing retarded etc etc).
Is there such a device that will allow me to do this? If so, where can I find it?
Fairly soon EFILive will be releasing there V2 interface which will be able to flash and log directly without the need for a laptop/computer. From what I understand when the V2 is made public it will be shipped for the same price as the current packages.
Fairly soon EFILive will be releasing there V2 interface which will be able to flash and log directly without the need for a laptop/computer. From what I understand when the V2 is made public it will be shipped for the same price as the current packages.
How much power do you think you're really losing by a conservative tune though, 10hp maybe?
I'd say more like 20 depending on how aggressively you spray.
My last motor fell from 394 to 375 rwhp (all motor numbers) when we cut back on the timing to run 150 shot. Definitely enough to make a difference at the track.
Back from the dead. Any other options out there? Auto-cal is still beta testing, I believe. Does something like Auto-cal save only efi-live files? For example, would it store files (tunes) done with other software like HPtuners? My tuner (efi-live) is getting out of the business and my next choice uses HPtuners. I still want to be able to switch between tunes but AFAIK Hptuners doesn't have anything to do this.
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Why don't you just get a Timing tuner or a timing retard box. This way you can run full timing on NA then retard for the spray..
That would be a waste of time and money considering you can do all this with the options I listed above with far less hassle.
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That would be a waste of time and money considering you can do all this with the options I listed above with far less hassle.
The dual flash chip may be cheaper and is also a good idea but why do you say with a timing tuner or retard box the dual chips is far less hassle? All you do is basically a flip of a switch with the retard box..
The dual flash chip may be cheaper and is also a good idea but why do you say with a timing tuner or retard box the dual chips is far less hassle? All you do is basically a flip of a switch with the retard box..
Because with any of those kinds of items you are intercepting signals via splicing into the harness in one form or another and modifying the original signal. That alone adds hassle and reduces the integrity of the loom. It also messes up the engine bay with unnecessary hardware clutter. Far simpler, cheaper and more reliable to keep it in the PCM and only have 1 extra wire coming out of the plug to initiate the n20 changes.
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The dual flash setup certainly has much promise. I have one coming to check out.
A 2bar tune for pump gas and the street; flip a switch and move a MAP connector from one sensor to the next (or relay to the switch that moves betweden the two) and get a 3bar setup for high boost and race fuel and real time tuning on both sides ... nice.
The dual flash setup certainly has much promise. I have one coming to check out.
A 2bar tune for pump gas and the street; flip a switch and move a MAP connector from one sensor to the next (or relay to the switch that moves betweden the two) and get a 3bar setup for high boost and race fuel and real time tuning on both sides ... nice.
Why wouldn't you just run the 3 bar on both cals. Seems like adding unnecessary complications to me.
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Why wouldn't you just run the 3 bar on both cals. Seems like adding unnecessary complications to me.
It is no more or less complicated with the exception of the additional sensor and relay to switch it over when you command the cal to switch... The 2bar map has 5kPA steps in boost area where as the 3bar has 10kPa steps north of 105kPa. There isn't a huge difference either way, but I tend to the run 2bar whenever it won't be maxed out.
It is no more or less complicated with the exception of the additional sensor and relay to switch it over when you command the cal to switch... The 2bar map has 5kPA steps in boost area where as the 3bar has 10kPa steps north of 105kPa. There isn't a huge difference either way, but I tend to the run 2bar whenever it won't be maxed out.
Fair enough. More resolution is never a bad thing.
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It is no more or less complicated with the exception of the additional sensor and relay to switch it over when you command the cal to switch... The 2bar map has 5kPA steps in boost area where as the 3bar has 10kPa steps north of 105kPa. There isn't a huge difference either way, but I tend to the run 2bar whenever it won't be maxed out.
Isn't it possible to damage the 2 bar sensor, when running the higher boost levels, while operating with the 3 bar sensor?
you could just get a lingenfelter two step with the timing retard function built in. i've got one and i havent used the retard function of it yet but you do have the ability to retard up to 10 degrees of timing and it plugs in on top of the factory coils. my roommate got one and used it on his 408 H/C/I 300 shot and it worked flawlessly.
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Isn't it possible to damage the 2 bar sensor, when running the higher boost levels, while operating with the 3 bar sensor?
The upper threshold for the two bar MAP is high enough that it won't be a concern.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody161
you could just get a lingenfelter two step with the timing retard function built in. i've got one and i havent used the retard function of it yet but you do have the ability to retard up to 10 degrees of timing and it plugs in on top of the factory coils. my roommate got one and used it on his 408 H/C/I 300 shot and it worked flawlessly.
If all I wanted to do was pull timing, I can use one of my IAT replacement boxes and have much more control than you can get and for much cheaper. This is really not the same thing at all though.
Multiple Tune Question 
