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11-11-2008, 12:02 AM
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#1 | | Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: ashland ky
Posts: 32
| how hard to change cam? Well i had a dealer quote me job on cam. $2200 total says the engine has to be dropped. I imagine because the front structure is in the way, BUT, my structure is gone because i am repairing the frontal collision damage. Should i do a cam now and which one? I would love a deeper gear to take advantage of the bigger cam but i was thinking somethihng like the X5 giggliotti cam, or a similar grind. Is there a similar grind? Would this be the time to change cam? I was going to tackle it myself since i have change cams in 5 other f-bodies so this should be very similar.
__________________ THE MUSCLE CAR SHOP
01 sunset orange metallic ws6 trans am, 69 X55 factory hugger orange camaro 4 speed, 69 x11 camaro, 70 h-code mach 1, 70 m-code mach 1, 69 Chevelle SS, 72 nova SS, 70 trans am forced induction lsx project, 70 camaro rs, 01 silverado 1500 hd 6.0, 05 denali 6.0 lq9, 72 vette, 65 lemans |
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11-11-2008, 04:49 PM
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#2 | | TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Ashdown, AR
Posts: 677
| $2200? Are you getting a high lift cam that requires springs and such? Is he going to dyno tune as well? That is way too much. If you have done it on your f-body you can do it on the gto.
__________________  2004 Pontiac GTO Coming Soon: Forged 408 and 19psi |
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11-11-2008, 07:27 PM
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#3 | | Staging Lane
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 64
| A cam takes about 8 hours. Engine does not need to be lifted. Radiator needs to come out, AC needs to be lifted out of the way (not disconnected) and then pull the cam out the front of the engine. I have done 4 cams now in my garage. Each has its own unique frustrations, but a lot easier than headers! Takes longer, but easier.
Step by step how to: http://buckeyegoats.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=135 |
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11-12-2008, 10:36 AM
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#4 | | Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 7
| Another good write up: http://konrademrich.com/cars/gto/ls1gtocaminstall.doc
As said above, the service manual states to pull the engine. This is not necessary. Pull the Rad (carefull of the bottom tabs, they break easy) and carefully flip the condenser 90 degrees. You will have all the room that you need.
Tips: Tighten the two oil pan bolts first when putting the front cover back on. You can crack the oil pan if you don't have the cover square.
I made my lifter holding rods out of 1/4 aluminium rod. Worked really well.
Buy the correct main pulley installation tool.
__________________ 06 M6 CGM GTO
Forged 408, D1SC @ 10psi, with supporting goodies...
Thanks to EPP, House Of Boost, FTI, and WRE.
605 RWHP 580Tq |
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11-12-2008, 07:12 PM
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#5 | | Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 18
| Drive to Memphis and have Spectacle Solutions install it! That's what I call pretty damn easy!
__________________
424hp and 408tq, kooks, comp cams, 19" Staggered wheels |
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11-14-2008, 09:25 AM
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#6 | | On The Tree
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Northern VA
Posts: 110
| Its easy. You'll have no problem..2200 bucks is insane. Follow the "how to" listed above and you'll be fine.
Jeremy
__________________ Forged 402, AFR 225's, Mamofied FAST 92 and TB, Procharger D-1SC, 9'' Filter Mod, ATI Race BPV, Cam Package, Secret Clutch, Stainless lines, AlkyControl Meth injection, SCSS Gator Pod (Fuel/ Boost Gauges), SCSS A-pillar pod with Wideband, Nasty Stage 3 setup, Kooks 1 7/8 Long Tubes, Spintech Exhaust, Gmm with Lss, CCW 505A's 18x8.5 and 19x10, 8.8 conversion, Hendrix-Engineering custom 2 piece D.S. and Axles. NICK WILLIAMS TUNED - 738/687 |
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11-18-2008, 12:30 AM
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#7 | | Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Tyler, Tx
Posts: 11
| You can do it no problem as long as you have the tools for the crank pulley.
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