View Poll Results: Which shocks?
Stick with the Koni DA's
13
24.53%
Ditch the DA's and get Strano Koni 4/3's
40
75.47%
Voters: 53. You may not vote on this poll
Koni DA or Koni 4/3?
#1
Koni DA or Koni 4/3?
Hello All,
I'm debating right now if I want to keep my Koni DA shocks or if I want to get the strano performance Koni 4/3 setup. I read in GMHTP that Sam said the 3rd gen rear shocks are good for heavy rears because they're tougher and have better response then the 4th gens, but i'm not sure about the DA's. I haven't installed the DA's yet, so I'm just checking in here for opinions from you shock guru's in here. I have strano springs as well (will get all installed together). I'm planning on setting the DA's half way for the front and rear shocks. But, what do you guys think? Stick with the DA's or save some cash and get the Koni 4/3 setup from Strano?
TIA,
Adrian Mejia
I'm debating right now if I want to keep my Koni DA shocks or if I want to get the strano performance Koni 4/3 setup. I read in GMHTP that Sam said the 3rd gen rear shocks are good for heavy rears because they're tougher and have better response then the 4th gens, but i'm not sure about the DA's. I haven't installed the DA's yet, so I'm just checking in here for opinions from you shock guru's in here. I have strano springs as well (will get all installed together). I'm planning on setting the DA's half way for the front and rear shocks. But, what do you guys think? Stick with the DA's or save some cash and get the Koni 4/3 setup from Strano?
TIA,
Adrian Mejia
#2
The DA's are more expensive and you can adjust BOTH compression and rebound.
Wheras the SA's are cheaper and you can only adjust the rebound.
So conventional wisdom would lead you to believe that the DA's are better.
But Strano runs the SA's even though he has a set of DA's...
I run the SA's (as opposed to the DA's) simply because I wanted to try the lower perch and I didn't want to pay more for being able to adjust compression (something I probably would never do).
Now.. If your DA's are new-in-box AND you can pass along the receipt (for Koni requires proof of "original owner" for warranty work) you might be able to get almost as much as you paid for them. And then go buy the cheaper SA's and have some money left over for... tires?
Wheras the SA's are cheaper and you can only adjust the rebound.
So conventional wisdom would lead you to believe that the DA's are better.
But Strano runs the SA's even though he has a set of DA's...
I run the SA's (as opposed to the DA's) simply because I wanted to try the lower perch and I didn't want to pay more for being able to adjust compression (something I probably would never do).
Now.. If your DA's are new-in-box AND you can pass along the receipt (for Koni requires proof of "original owner" for warranty work) you might be able to get almost as much as you paid for them. And then go buy the cheaper SA's and have some money left over for... tires?
#3
Staging Lane
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When I bought my Koni shocks from Sam, he said the double adjustables were a twin tube design and therefore had a mm or 2 of play in them before they start to work while the 3 rd gen SA are a single tube design and there is no play, as soon as they move they are working. As he explained it, I would feel the difference same as the difference between stock GM swaybar bushings and going to Energy Suspension uretahane bushings.
#4
TECH Addict
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When I bought my Koni shocks from Sam, he said the double adjustables were a twin tube design and therefore had a mm or 2 of play in them before they start to work while the 3 rd gen SA are a single tube design and there is no play, as soon as they move they are working. As he explained it, I would feel the difference same as the difference between stock GM swaybar bushings and going to Energy Suspension uretahane bushings.
i dunno, if you can find someone else that will buy the DA's off you, then i'd sell them and get the SA's, and have some cash leftover.
#6
I ended up with the Koni SA dampers along with Sam's linear springs and custom bars. To me this allows better apples to apples talk over set-up specifics. Being a rookie I wanted a tried and true setup at the track.
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#9
#10
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From what I have read, DA's are for track cars only (and even then it makes you wonder because doesn't Sam run SA's???). The DA's actually ride rougher than SA's so everyday driving is worst than stock whereas the SA's are better than stock. And I see used DA's go for the same or just a little more than SA's ALL the time- do a search. I've seen multiple SA's sell for $600 to $750 and DA's go from $600 to $800. People are usually trying to dump them.
#12
On The Tree
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ok my question is,are the 4/3's and 4/4's sa's or is the 4/4 sa front/da rear or is the 4/4 sa frt and rear but also rear is also externally adjustable on car.Thanks i'm a little confused.I want handling and therefore want sa's only.
thanks
thanks
#16
So has anyone gone from 4th gen rears to 3rd gen rears and noticed a difference or vice versa? I should just be able to soften the rebound on the 4/3 to match the 4/4 right? I'm not sure exactly how it would affect anything.
#18
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Not many people know that. Sam explained it to me and then I looked it up and its fully true. Not that I didnt believe him though.
The 4th gen rears can be FULL adjustable while the 3rd gen rears have SET amounts of adjustment. I think its 0, 20, 50, 80 and then full stiff.
#20
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The rear shocks with the 4/3's are 4 setting adjustable, not 5, not 2, not 8, and not non-adjustable (I've heard all the above from various internet experts....)..
4/3 rears do have to be removed to be adjusted. Adjustments are full soft, +20, +50, +100% firmer than full soft.
4/4's are on the car adjustable, and infinitely adjustable withing the range. So you can go anywhere from full soft to +100%.... Basically let's say you found the +20 too soft, the +50 too firm on the 4/3's... You have to pick what you like better, even if you would prefer something in between. With 4/4's you can get that inbetween (and look at the numbers, these are not small insignificant changes).
4/3's are cost based that's why they exist. There are certain situations where really heavy axles are in use that they can help certain things a bit. But those are not what I'd call super common cases. And you always give up range and ease of rebound damping.
4/3 rears do have to be removed to be adjusted. Adjustments are full soft, +20, +50, +100% firmer than full soft.
4/4's are on the car adjustable, and infinitely adjustable withing the range. So you can go anywhere from full soft to +100%.... Basically let's say you found the +20 too soft, the +50 too firm on the 4/3's... You have to pick what you like better, even if you would prefer something in between. With 4/4's you can get that inbetween (and look at the numbers, these are not small insignificant changes).
4/3's are cost based that's why they exist. There are certain situations where really heavy axles are in use that they can help certain things a bit. But those are not what I'd call super common cases. And you always give up range and ease of rebound damping.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!