The car is a street car with ocassional passes at the track. which would be a better performance set up? 382 stroker or 388 all bore? I want a mild street car that run mid to low 11's with a good idle. Help me choose between the two?

 

go 388 all bore. i would love to have that motor. 393 is the next motor in my stable.

Nate

 

I wonder how the torque throughout the power band stack up against each other? Someone ha sto know this?

 

my 393 is sitting here waiting to be put in.....393 will cost a lil more with the sleved block and all

 

383 stroker. Torque is nice

 

I wonder what the torque band throught out the power range compare between the two? Anyone???

 

Try getting in touch with NOGO cause i think his motor is an all bore and if i'm thinking right he had problems at one time. I would go stroker

 

Problems with what the sleves? if u have a good shop do the sleeving u wont have a problem

destroyerSS what town do u live in....i live right by goshen

 

I live in the town of deerpark about 5 mile's from Port Jervis SORRY

 

If you want to compare the graphs look @ MTI's site . I would go all bore there is just no comparison . A stroker makes more torque @ lower rpm's but if there the same displacement the all bore will make just as much torque just at a higher rpm equalling more POWER . A stroker gives the piston more leverage against the crank but an all bore increases valve area and gives more piston area to push down on the crank . The cost of either are pretty close .

 

If you go with a forged all bore the cost isnt even close. Stroker is far cheaper.

 

a stroker will will more power down low, which if its street driven, is what you want. and yea a stroker will be cheaper.

 

You need to talk to a sponsor and let them help you. To each his own. Tell them what you plan on doing with the car and they can fix you up. Good luck. Both motors are sweet!

 

For your goals, I would look at the stroker. But with an all bore, you are only a crankshaft away from a 427 if you decided to do that in the future.

 

I am not going to spray either. I think if i go with the stock rods and stock crank it will only be a few hundred dollars more to go all bore.

 

The only time its cheaper to do the all bore route is to keep the production crank and (if staying n/a) the rods with some ARPs in them otherwise you will spend the same amount on the rotating assembly as you would a stroker and then will have the machine shop bill for the sleeving. If I where to buy a crank/rods/pistons and also sleeve the block it will not be 380ish size engine, more like 420ish. Like 1984camaroZ28 said if you have a good machine shop that know how to put dry sleeves in properly you will not have any trouble out of em.

 

i am going with a wet sleeve block.

 

if ur staying NA ur wasting ur money.... give bo a pm about a dry sleve block he can hook u up

 

I always thought that wet was better than dry?

 

some people on the board will tell u that. about 2 months ago i thought the same thing till i called about 90% of the vendors on here that sell sleveed blocks, Cartek , rapid motorsports and all the rest of them. I asked about people having problems with dry sleeves and the all said "The only reason they have problems with the dry sleeves is that the person/shop that installed them did not no what they where doing and if ur gona stay na or even a small shot of n2o u wont have a problem" all of the shop also whould waranty there work.... give BO a pm he will set u up