i need wiring help
i need wiring help could someone help me figure this out?
i have a 2002 Fbody drivetrain, this harness thing is from a 99.. it SHOULD still be correct though.. little help?
i have a 2002 Fbody drivetrain, this harness thing is from a 99.. it SHOULD still be correct though.. little help?
Code:
LS1 Harness 3rdgen wires Question/Location White (220) Plug A TAN Oil Pressure Tan oil pressure wire on 3rdgen Stock Oil pressure wire B GRY PCM 32 Clutch Anticipate Switch Signal to clutch down switch. ?? what does the other half of the clutch switch goto? (doesnt need for running) C PNK C105-B IGN Power for TCC Stop Lamp Switch nothing on 6spd D PPL PCM 33 TCC/Cruse Brake Switch nothing on 6spd E BLK/WHT Ground ground whatever good chassis ground is nearby H ORN/BLK PCM 34 PNP Switch Signal to clutch down switch. ?? I thought pin B goes there? (doesnt need for running) J YEL/BLK Low Coolant Indicator nothing K DK GRN/WHT PCM 50 VSS Output speedo pulse speedo input wire Blue (230) Plug A GRY PCM 46 5V Feed (Fuel tank pressure) nothing B Brown w/Stripe PCM 25 MIL Lamp Control SES light on dash Tap into SES light in gauge cluster (reminder to self: bulb is out) C WHT PCM 45 EVAP Canister Vent Valve Control nothing E Blue PCM 55 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable for VATS pulse (not needed if deleted in PCM) nothing, but use HP tuners F DK GRN/WHT PCM 17 A/C Request nothing (AC delete) G GRY PCM 23 Fuel Ground nothing. fuel gauge on LS1 car. H DK GRN PCM 64 Fuel Tank Pressure nothing J PPL PCM 54 Fuel Level Input nothing K DK GRN PCM 58 Serial Data (Class 2) ALDL get ALDL connector and wire this into it. 99 LS1 PCM to Front Harness Large Plug C100 Plug A PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 1 15A) +12v Ignition only power Run from factory injector power #1(with 15A injector fuse) B DK GRN/WHT PCM 43 A/C Clutch Relay Control nothing C DK GRN PCM 18 A/C Clutch Status nothing D GRY TPS +5v to TCS nothing E DK BLU TPS signal to TCS nothing G PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (Tranny/EGR 15A) +12v ignition Run from ignition triggered relay. (15A fuse) H DK BLU PCM 33 Cooling Fan 2 and 3 Relay Control nothing Run to neg(ground) trigger of high speed fan relay (if equipped) J DK GRN PCM 42 Cooling Fan 1 Relay Control to GROUND on fan relay. Run to neg(ground) trigger of low speed fan relay K BLK TPS sensor low to TCS nothing C101 Plug A YEL/BLK Low Coolant Sensor nothing B PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 2 15A) +12v Ignition only power Run from factory injector power #2 (with 15A injector fuse) C BRN PCM 36 Air Pump Relay Control nothing D DK GRN/WHT PCM 9 Fuel Pump Relay Control Ground Trigger for fuel pump relay Run to neg(ground) trigger of Fuel pump relay E PNK/BLK PCM 19 Ignition Positive Voltage for PCM +12v Ignition only power Run from factory ECM power G ORN PCM 57 Battery Positive Voltage for PCM +12v hooked straight to batt via inline fuse. 10A fuse H BLK/WHT Ground ground Run to chassis ground. K GRY/BLK PCM 53 TCS Spark Retard Signal to Brake Control Module nothing C105 Plug B PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (TCC Stop Lamp Switch/MAF/O2 20A) + 12v Run from ignition triggered relay. (20A fuse) D DK GRN PCM 37 Cruise Control Inhibit nothing F WHT PCM 13 Cruise Engaged Signal nothing G WHT PCM 10 Tach out to Brake Control Module this is what goes to the Tach (and tach signal driven components) Connect to Tach wire H PPL PCM 4 AIR Solenoid Relay Control nothing
Last edited by MrDude_1; Jan 11, 2005 at 02:32 PM.
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Back on the subject , I went with Hawk's Thirdgen parts to do my harness. I would have went with Speartech , but Hawk's had some thirdgen parts cars so he used one of the TBI harnesses from a parts car he had for a true "plug and play". Speartech was very reasonable in price and quite helpful.By doing what I did , I was able to continue driving my car instead of it gathering dust in my garage. I refuse to tear the car down until I have every single part in front of me to do the conversion. My other vehicle is a '95 dually so it's not very economical to drive every day. I would recommend using Speartech for the harness conversion for any non thirdgen swap . And I very much support this site by using as many LS1tech sponsors as possible. Spohn and Thunder Racing have gotten quite a few $$$$ from me. I purchased from them as a direct result from fellow members input on here. It's better and cheaper to let Speartech do your conversion than a burnt up PCM.
since this thread is trashed anyway:
i already talked to John Spears. hes a nice guy and actually took 5mins out of his time to talk to me. i had called speartech first when i was looking for a engine and harness.. after a short conversation we BOTH came to the conclusion that for my project, i should just find a straight pullout and do the wiring.
if i ever want to put a LS1 in somthign other then a 3rdgen, esp on a high buck build like a streetrod, ect... he'll be getting another call back from me.
but this basicly wires itself once you get someone to double check your connections.
i updated the "chart" above.
the only pins in question now are 220-B, 220-H, and the other half of the C105-B circuit.
C105-B trips a relay for the MAF and O2s... but where does the power that relay is switching goto?
i dont have the engine right infront of me, i work on it over at robs house (MonteC above)
i already talked to John Spears. hes a nice guy and actually took 5mins out of his time to talk to me. i had called speartech first when i was looking for a engine and harness.. after a short conversation we BOTH came to the conclusion that for my project, i should just find a straight pullout and do the wiring.
if i ever want to put a LS1 in somthign other then a 3rdgen, esp on a high buck build like a streetrod, ect... he'll be getting another call back from me.
but this basicly wires itself once you get someone to double check your connections.
i updated the "chart" above.
the only pins in question now are 220-B, 220-H, and the other half of the C105-B circuit.
C105-B trips a relay for the MAF and O2s... but where does the power that relay is switching goto?
i dont have the engine right infront of me, i work on it over at robs house (MonteC above)
MrDude i think i have some info that may help, all you show is the PCM pinouts...if you had the pinouts for the connections you need to make like the clutch switch etc. it might tell you a little more. If you send me an email with all the info on the car, pcm, and you main issues, i will get back to you in a day or two with quite a bit of info.
I have yet to finish my conversion yet, i am just waiting on the right deal on an LS1 and 4L60E, but i do have a good source for info on all the wiring.
LS1Cain@houston.rr.com
I have yet to finish my conversion yet, i am just waiting on the right deal on an LS1 and 4L60E, but i do have a good source for info on all the wiring.
LS1Cain@houston.rr.com
A very easy place to reference the wiring is www.alldatadiy.com you have to pay a fee to register it with every vehicle you do. I have bought a subscription for my S10 and a 2001 fbody to aid in my motor swap and wiring harness construction. There is alot more in there than just wiring diagrams so this might be worth looking into.
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
MrDude i think i have some info that may help, all you show is the PCM pinouts...if you had the pinouts for the connections you need to make like the clutch switch etc. it might tell you a little more. If you send me an email with all the info on the car, pcm, and you main issues, i will get back to you in a day or two with quite a bit of info.
I have yet to finish my conversion yet, i am just waiting on the right deal on an LS1 and 4L60E, but i do have a good source for info on all the wiring.
LS1Cain@houston.rr.com
I have yet to finish my conversion yet, i am just waiting on the right deal on an LS1 and 4L60E, but i do have a good source for info on all the wiring.
LS1Cain@houston.rr.com
im not sure what other connections you need..
the clutch switch is that.... a SPST normally open switch that is depressed when the cutch is fully depressed.
i know the MAF and heating element for the O2s are all connected.. and i know they are kicked on by the C105-B wire kicking on the relay.
does that put out 12v+ or a ground for the relay?
in the OE setup, where is it? the MAF and O2s connect to the harness. where do i connect them to the relay for power?
i have all of the other outputs taken care of.
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One last thought here: I've seen Mr_Dude on thirdgen.org for a couple of years now. He's a good guy and a respected member there. I think Crainholio and him just got off on the wrong foot. We've compared quite a few notes so far and it isn't a money thing , just two thirdgenners trying to help each other out. If I was tight for money , I would have tried to do the harness myself , also. This swap is not for the faint hearted and if you can save a buck here or there , why not?
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Well the clutch switch also has more than one connector/switch on it as well so it can not only start the vehicle but also tells the pcm that you are about to shift gears and turns off cruise control.
The c105-b wire states that it is hot when the relay Is engaged, what that means is that when the relay is turned on, by ignition, it provides power to the pcm for the oxygen sensors and maf sensor. That is the way I am reading it.
If you read the whole list you will see that all the pink wires are actually coming from the relay center and fuse block and providing power to the PCM. The PCM does not provide power to the relays.
Good luck.
The c105-b wire states that it is hot when the relay Is engaged, what that means is that when the relay is turned on, by ignition, it provides power to the pcm for the oxygen sensors and maf sensor. That is the way I am reading it.
If you read the whole list you will see that all the pink wires are actually coming from the relay center and fuse block and providing power to the PCM. The PCM does not provide power to the relays.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
Well the clutch switch also has more than one connector/switch on it as well so it can not only start the vehicle but also tells the pcm that you are about to shift gears and turns off cruise control.
athough thinking about it, im using the 3rdgen setup for that, so i dont have to worry about nutural starting...
does the computer NEED to know when im about to shift for TQ management? or is that somthing thats just nice to have? im not worried about cruise control interupt.
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
The c105-b wire states that it is hot when the relay Is engaged, what that means is that when the relay is turned on, by ignition, it provides power to the pcm for the oxygen sensors and maf sensor. That is the way I am reading it.
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
If you read the whole list you will see that all the pink wires are actually coming from the relay center and fuse block and providing power to the PCM. The PCM does not provide power to the relays.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I think this will help, pretty much the same thing as this thread, just without all of the other crap. Wiring is not for everyone, the people that its not for I think will realize that all on they're own.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=274244
If I can help in some way, cool... If Mr. Dude can help somebody in the future with what he's doing, then even better... We'll just create one big daisy chain and all be happy, well most of us.
I just want to see more running LS1 thirdgens. C'mon guys, I think theres only 2 in this thread...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=274244
If I can help in some way, cool... If Mr. Dude can help somebody in the future with what he's doing, then even better... We'll just create one big daisy chain and all be happy, well most of us.
I just want to see more running LS1 thirdgens. C'mon guys, I think theres only 2 in this thread...
WOW! this thread really got cleaned up alot!
ok, ive decided to drop the idea of keeping the OEM connectors...mostly because getting connectors that plug into there is a total PITA.... i am however going to use weatherpack connectors between the harness and car.
now theres several ways i can do this.. im posting this up because im looking for feedback and ideas:
method1:
put only the used wires in each OEM connector to each weatherpack connector
example:
220 would have 5 wires used - so the5 would be on one weatherpack connector
230 2 wires
C100 would have 4 wires
C101 5 wires
C105 2 wires
method2:
sort them by logic
one connector has gauge outputs: oil pressure, water temp (stick 98 sensor into engine harness), tach, speedo...
one connector has remaining outputs/inputs: fan triggers, fuel trigger, backup lights,starter
final connector is bigger with main power feeds: injectors/coils, constant ECM power, ign ECM power, MAF/O2, ect...
method 3:
sort them by physical layout
these wires are close together so they goto connector A, ect... i dont have it here to see whats "close", so i would be working that out when i get there.
anyone have some feedback? im kinda leaning toward option #2 right now. athough i can see how option1 would let me "trace back" my wiring easier......
ok, ive decided to drop the idea of keeping the OEM connectors...mostly because getting connectors that plug into there is a total PITA.... i am however going to use weatherpack connectors between the harness and car.
now theres several ways i can do this.. im posting this up because im looking for feedback and ideas:
method1:
put only the used wires in each OEM connector to each weatherpack connector
example:
220 would have 5 wires used - so the5 would be on one weatherpack connector
230 2 wires
C100 would have 4 wires
C101 5 wires
C105 2 wires
method2:
sort them by logic
one connector has gauge outputs: oil pressure, water temp (stick 98 sensor into engine harness), tach, speedo...
one connector has remaining outputs/inputs: fan triggers, fuel trigger, backup lights,starter
final connector is bigger with main power feeds: injectors/coils, constant ECM power, ign ECM power, MAF/O2, ect...
method 3:
sort them by physical layout
these wires are close together so they goto connector A, ect... i dont have it here to see whats "close", so i would be working that out when i get there.
anyone have some feedback? im kinda leaning toward option #2 right now. athough i can see how option1 would let me "trace back" my wiring easier......
method2:
sort them by logic
one connector has gauge outputs: oil pressure, water temp (stick 98 sensor into engine harness), tach, speedo...
one connector has remaining outputs/inputs: fan triggers, fuel trigger, backup lights,starter
final connector is bigger with main power feeds: injectors/coils, constant ECM power, ign ECM power, MAF/O2, ect...
I have a 79 camaro that im putting a ls1 and a t56 in and I used the second method it worked out fairly easy. I just bought a fuse block and ran it that way
sort them by logic
one connector has gauge outputs: oil pressure, water temp (stick 98 sensor into engine harness), tach, speedo...
one connector has remaining outputs/inputs: fan triggers, fuel trigger, backup lights,starter
final connector is bigger with main power feeds: injectors/coils, constant ECM power, ign ECM power, MAF/O2, ect...
I have a 79 camaro that im putting a ls1 and a t56 in and I used the second method it worked out fairly easy. I just bought a fuse block and ran it that way
