SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

If you have anything to add please do. However, please refrain from asking questions in this thread.

This is intended as a guide for people who want to modify their own harness. This is just a guide and may or may not be complete. In other word use at your own risk 

I have compiled this information from many hours of searches. The thanks for all this belongs to many people. If you see something of yours on here and you want credit or want it removed please let me know.

These are the pin outs for most LS1’s. This information alone will get most people on the right track.

1998 PCM Pin Assignments
1999 PCM Pin Assignments
2000 PCM Pin Assignments
2000 PCM Pin Assignments - Corvette
2001 PCM Pin Assignments
2002 PCM Pin Assignments

99 pin out
99 pins
99 pins

Coil Wiring

Posted by
Red Heartbeat
Wires removed from 2001 A4 harness for conversion
________________________________________
Okay, checked out my wiring harness conversion and found quite a few wires removed.

2001 LS1 5.7L with 4L60E A4 Transmission

Blue connector....

23 - Low Reference
25 - HO2S Low Signal Bank 2 Sensor 2
28 - HO2S Low Signal Bank 1 Sensor 2
32 - CPP Switch Signal ? what is CPP?
65 - HO2S High Signal Bank 2 Sensor 2
68 - HO2S High Signal Bank 1 Sensor 2
70 - Oil Level Switch Signal

Red Connector....

4 - Air Injection Reaction Solenoid Relay - Coil - Control
13 - Cruise Control Engage Signal
34 - Evaporative Canister Purge Solenoid Control
36 - AIR Pump Relay Control
37 - Cruise Control Inhibit Signal
45 - Evaporative Canister Vent Solenoid Control
46 - MIL Control ? what does MIL stand for?
53 - Ignition Retard Signal
54 - Fuel Level Sensor Signal
64- Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal
2001 LS1 5.7L 4L60E four speed automatic

Removed pins and wires from Blue PCM connector....
23, 25, 28, 32, 65, 68 and 70

Removed pins and wires from Red PCM connector....
4, 7, 13, 34, 36, 37, 45, 53, 54 and 64

Bundle these wires together and route into the cab of vehicle.....

Blue 33 - Purple - TCC Brake Switch Signal - to brake switch - normal 12v positive and Zero
Volts when brake pedal is depressed .
Blue 34 - Orange/Black - Neutral Safety Switch
Blue 46 - Brown/White - Malfunction Indicator Light

Red 17 - Green/White - A/C request switch
Red 30 - Dk Blue - Fuel Enable Control - to VATS if not disabled in the PCM
Red 42 - Tan or Tan/Black - TCC Solenoid Valve Control
Red 50 - Green/White - Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal

Six fuse power block....

12V - Red - always "ON" from battery to three fused outlets

1. 30 amp 12V from fuse to terminal 87 for low fan relay
2. 30 amp 12V from fuse to terminal 87 for high fan relay
3. 10 amp 12V from fuse to PCM Blue 20 and 57

12V - Pink - from ignition "ON" switch to three fused outlets

1. 20 amp 12V from fuse to A/C relay terminal 87
2. 15 amp 12V from fuse to PCM Connector Blue 19
3. 15 amp 12V from fuse to Fuel Pump Relay terminal 87

Bosch Type Relay 1.
Low Speed Fan Relay
Terminal 85 connect to PCM Blue 42 - Dark Green
Terminal 30 Connect to Fan positive
Terminal 86 Connect to constant 12V Power Supply
Terminal 87 Connect to Switched 12V Power Supply

Bosch type Relay 2.
High Speed Fan Relay
Terminal 85 connect to PCM Red 33 - Dark Blue
Terminal 30 Connect to Fan positive
Terminal 86 Connect to constant 12V Power Supply
Terminal 87 Connect to Switched 12V Power Supply

Bosch type Relay 3.
Fuel relay
Terminal 85 connect to PCM Red 9 - Dark Green/White
Terminal 30 Connect to fuel pump 12V input
Terminal 86 Connect to Ground - black/white
Terminal 87 Connect to Switched 12V Power Supply

Bosch type Relay 4.
A/C relay
Terminal 85 connect to PCM Red 43 - Green/White - A/C Clutch Relay Control
Terminal 30 Connect to PCM Red 18 - Dark Green - A/C Compressor Clutch Supply Voltage
Terminal 87 Connect to switched 12V Power Supply
Terminal 86 Connect to PCM Blue 19 - Pink - Ignition 1 Voltage

My only concern is Relay 4. I don't see the logic there. It seems to me that Terminal 86 - Blue 19 - should have 12 Volts at the switch unless it is 12 Volts output from the PCM instead of input into the PCM. GM has always used the pink wire as switched power, red as constant 12V and Purple as the main starter solenoid lead.

Posted by
Magnus

Re: wiring questions
________________________________________
Hmm.. ok Lets go over the list..

Oil Pressure: Optional but recommended
Clutch Anticipate Switch Signal: uncertain
IGN Power for TCC Stop Lamp Switch: Optional but recommended
TCC/Cruse Brake Switch: Optional but recommended (Paired with above)
Ground
PNP Switch Signal: Optional
Low Coolant Indicator: Optional
VSS Output: Optional but recommended


5V Feed (Fuel tank pressure): Optional
MIL Control: Optional but recommended
EVAP Canister Vent Valve Control: Optional
Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable: Required
A/C Request: Optional
Fuel Ground: Optional depending on how your fueling is setup
Fuel Tank Pressure: Optional
Fuel Level Input: Optional
Serial Data (Class 2): Optional but recommended

Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 1 15A): Required
A/C Clutch Relay Control: Optional
A/C Clutch Status: Optional
TPS +5v to TCS: Optional
TPS signal to TCS: Optional
with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (Tranny/EGR 15A): Required
Cooling Fan 2 and 3 Relay Control: Optional but HIGHLY recommended
Cooling Fan 1 Relay Control: Optional but HIGHLY recommended
TPS sensor low to TCS: Optional

Low Coolant Sensor: Optional
Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 2 15A): Required
Air Pump Relay Control: Optional
Fuel Pump Relay Control: Required most likely
Ignition Positive Voltage for PCM: Required
Battery Positive Voltage for PCM: Required
Ground:
TCS Spark Retard Signal to Brake Control Module: Optional

Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (TCC Stop Lamp Switch/MAF/O2 20A): Required
Cruise Control Inhibit: Optional
Cruise Engaged Signal: Optional
Tach out to Brake Control Module: Optional (Re-use for dash tach)
AIR Solenoid Relay Control: Optional

Posted By
MrDude_1

let me take a min to explain what that means (i know i wish someone did that for me first.. lol)

when you get a pullout that has the harness on the car, everything is connected except:

3 connectors that were underhood. (named C100,C101,C105)
2 connectors that used to connect under the dash (220,230)

so these 5 connectors are teh ONLY wires we're worred about.

in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.

the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard.

its ALMOST a stand alone harness already... only diff is it will have a couple extra wires left after its hooked up.. not a big deal..

theres one more wire not listed there.. its a thick purple wire that goes to the starter.

when it gets +12v, the starter turns the motor over.

also, i bought HPtuners... you will either need HPtuners/EFILive/etc., or have your PCM flashed by someone to remove the trouble codes and VATS.... i could give you a step by step on doing it easily.... but HPtuners/EFILive is a little pricy. a tune is a cheaper route, but HPtuners/EFILive give you the scanner thats very useful.. along with the ability to change stuff at will... your call on that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SatisTraction
did any of you leave the diagnostic plug connected so that you could connect a tuner for the computer?

yup.

all i did was go into the junkyard and grab one off of a GM ODBII car.....



posted by flippincamaro

hey here are the wires you need
99 LS1 PCM to Front Harness

Large Plug C100 Plug
A PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 1 15A)
B DK GRN/WHT PCM 43 A/C Clutch Relay Control
C DK GRN PCM 18 A/C Clutch Status
D GRY TPS +5v to TCS
E DK BLU TPS signal to TCS
G PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (Tranny/EGR 15A)
H DK BLU PCM 33 Cooling Fan 2 and 3 Relay Control
J DK GRN PCM 42 Cooling Fan 1 Relay Control
K BLK TPS sensor low to TCS

C101 Plug
A YEL/BLK Low Coolant Sensor
B PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 2 15A)
C BRN PCM 36 Air Pump Relay Control
D DK GRN/WHT PCM 9 Fuel Pump Relay Control
E PNK/BLK PCM 19 Ignition Positive Voltage for PCM
G ORN PCM 57 Battery Positive Voltage for PCM
H BLK/WHT Ground
K GRY/BLK PCM 53 TCS Spark Retard Signal to Brake Control Module

C105 Plug
B PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (TCC Stop Lamp Switch/MAF/O2 20A)
D DK GRN PCM 37 Cruise Control Inhibit
F WHT PCM 13 Cruise Engaged Signal
G WHT PCM 10 Tach out to Brake Control Module
H PPL PCM 4 AIR Solenoid Relay Control

These are all of the pins/wires I did not use:
220- E,H,J,K
230- A,C,F,G,H,J
C100- B,C,D,E,K
C101- A,C,K
C105- D,F,H
All the pink wires run into one wire which is ignition switch on i ran it to my ecm ignition on fuse on my truck fuse box. and the orange wire i ran a hot wire to it from my battery.

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

posted by Oscar Will

The reverse lockout is operated from a clutch pedal position switch that inputs into C1-32 and the PCM operates (grounds) the reverse lockout through C2-44. If you want to use it you'll have to somehow get a normally closed switch in your clutch pedal linkage, the circuit is "hot" until you depress the clutch, when it goes "open" the PCM will ground the lockout solenoid. I can supply the schematic if you need it.

look at this thread

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=pink



Great info from LS2.com

More Great stuff

Engine

12160244 IAT Sensor
24504388 IAT Sensor Grommet
12480033 Hot Cam Kit
10238852 LS1 Pushrod
12559271 Water Pump Gasket (need 2)
12561244 Front Crank Seal
12557840 Crank Pulley Bolt
12558013 Timing Cover Gasket
12558573 Exhaust manifold gasket
12559188 98-99 AIR tube (one side)
12559189 98-99 AIR tube (other side)
12556643 98-99 EGR tube
12553047 EGR gasket
12553617 AIR tube gasket
12557932 EGR O-ring seal
12560696 Valve Cover Gasket
12565117 LS6 valve springs
12560950 LS6 Camshaft
12568002 LS6 Valley cover
12658010 LS6 PCV kit
88890523 LS6 Intake
12568478 2001 Coolant pipe
12562788 2001 Coolant plug
12560744 "M-11" Headbolts (need 8/side)
12560745 "M-11" short headbolt (need 2/side)
12558840 OR 12558845 "M-8" Headbolts (need 5/side) *Not sure on which is correct*.
12558809 Head gasket (drivers side)
12558810 Head gasket (pass side)
12559188 98-99 AIR tube (one side)
12559189 98-99 AIR tube (other side)
12556643 98-99 EGR Tube Assembly
12553617 AIR tube gasket
12560696 Valve Cover Gasket
12559271 Water Pump Gasket (need 2)
12556436 2001 Oil Pump
16238212 Computer (PCM) 1998
12177561 Engine harness 1998 (manual)
25312196 RH O2 sensor
25312197 LH O2 Sensor
12558948 Coil
12560228 Crank Sensor
12560229 Cam sensor
12555424 Belt tensioner
10456603 Knock sensor
9353691 Body Control Mod. (BCM)
15301401 Coil harness
25179711 LS1 MAF
12160244 IAT sensor
12552059 Water pump pulley
25170361 Camaro lower airbox
25179711 00' Mass Air Sensor (whole assembly)
12561269 Intake manifold for 98-00 F-body
88890523 Intake manifold for 01 F-body
12557846 Intake manifold for 98-00 Y-body
88890524 Intake manifold for 01 Y-body(LS1 & LS6)
12560965 Camshaft for 98-00 F-body
12560964 Camshaft for 98-99 Y-body
12560968 Camshaft for 00 Y-body
12561721 Camshaft for 01 F-body & LS1 Y-body
12560950 Camshaft for 01 Y-body LS6
12560194 Left exhaust manifold for 98-99 F-body
12561308 Left exhaust manifold for 98-99 Y-body
12559507 Left exhaust manifold for 00-01 F-body
12562638 Left exhaust manifold for 00 Y-body
12561255 Left exhaust manifold for 01 Y-body LS1
12561256 Left exhaust manifold for 01 Y-body LS6
12560193 Right exhaust manifold for 98-99 F-body
12561309 Right exhaust manifold for 98-99 Y-body
12559506 Right exhaust manifold for 00 F-body
12562639 Right exhaust manifold for 00 Y-body
12567706 Right exhaust manifold for 01 F-body
12561256 Right exhaust manifold for 01 Y-body (LS1 & LS6)
17113390 Throttle body for 98-99 F-body
17113564 Throttle body for 98-99 Y-body
17113647 Throttle body for 00-01 F-body
17113669 Throttle body for 00-01 Y-body (LS1 & LS6)
12533952 Injector for 98 F-body & Y-body
12456154 Injector for 99-00 F-body & Y-body
12482704 Injector for 01 F-body & Y-body (LS1 & LS6)
12558807 Heads for 98 F-body & Y-body
12559855 Heads for 99-01 F-body & Y-body (LS1)
12560801 Heads for 01 Y-body (LS6)
12480033 Hotcam for LS1

Clutch/Transmission/Driveline

12562765 LS1 Flywheel
12560725 Aluminum drive shaft
10085375 1LE Aluminium Driveshaft
12570277 Clutch Master Cyl
12570281 Z06 clutch, pplate, flywheel
12562765 2001 Fbody clutch,pplate,fwheel
12565145 2001 Slave Cyl
15046288 2000 Slave Cyl
22146231 1LE Transmission Mount
12570281 Z06 clutch

Suspension

26032907 1LE front swaybar (32mm)
10221779 1LE endlinks
10021221 1LE rear swaybar (21mm)
10262147 1LE Panhard bar
22132887 1LE front springs
22132889 1LE rear springs
10221779 1LE endlinks
52367658 1LE Front Left Lower Control Arm
22156461 1LE Front left upper Control Arm
52367659 1LE Front Right Lower Control arm
22156462 1LE Front Right upper Control arm
22132887 1LE front springs
26032907 1LE front swaybar (32mm)
10288551 1LE front swaybar insulator (32mm)
10164151 1LE Lower Control Arms
10262147 1LE Panhard bar
22166910 1LE Rear shock insulator retainer
10009135 1LE Rear shock lower insulator
22166909 1LE Rear shock upper insulator
22132889 1LE rear springs
10021221 1LE rear swaybar (21mm)
10235886 1LE Rear swaybar insulator (21mm)
10413903 Torque Arm Bushing
22174970 Transmission Mount
18026165 Front brake pads
12454972 Rear brake pads
18038574 Durastop Disc Brake Pads
18039370 Durastop Performance Disc Brake Pads
18060239 Rear Brake Rotor
10434796 & 10434797 Brake backing plates (whole assembly w/ ebrake)

Misc.

12369966 SS logo (Silver)
12369965 SS logo (Red)
25121942 Fuel filter
12378261 Diff oil for auburn
12555685 Mobil 1 oil cap
10236268 Mobil 1 sticker
12556455 + 12559261 Fuel rail covers
12564257 + 12564258 Z06 Fuel rail covers
12457574 Ram Air Hood Stickers (White Metalic)
12455211 WS6 Air lid "Ram-Air" Sticker
12455209 WS6 Lower Air Box
12455212 WS6 Lower Air box/radiator support
12455213 WS6 Nostril Screen (1)
12455214 WS6 Nostril Screen (2)
12369963 SS Hood
12369964 SS Hood grill screen
12335525 Camaro Front Fascia
10280356 Camaro Front Grille
10193494 Camaro Front Fascia Emblem
12369966 SS Side Emblems (Silver)
9593624 WS6 Wheel
9593305 WS6 Wheel
10402860 Black Electric Antenna
GMP00F Helms manual
12369969 SS Spoiler Brake Light


These part numbers and descriptions were compiled from various sources and users at LS1.com. Their accuracy has not been validated. So, you order/use at your own risk.

Oil system GM Part numbers (from GM LS1 installation guide, PN 88959384, page 9)

Corvette (C5) Oil Pan: 12561828
Corvette (C5) Oil Pupm Pickup: 12558750
Corvette (C5) Windage Tray: 12558189
Corvette (C5) Dipstick: 12562468
Corvette (C5) Dipstick Tube: 12556405

F-body Oil Pan: 12558762
F-body Oil Pump Pickup: 12558251
F-body Windage Tray: 12558253
F-body Dipstick: 12551581
F-body Dipstick Tube: 12551577

C/K Truck Oil Pan: 12560393
C/K Truck Oil Pump Pickup: 12563961
C/K Truck Windage Tray: 12558268
C/K Truck Dipstick: 12558684
C/K Truck Dipstick Tube: 12563918

GTO (Holden) Oil Pan: 12561541
GTO (Holden) Oil Pump Pickup: 12572654
GTO (Holden) Windage Tray: 12558189 (shared with C5)
GTO (Holden) Dipstick: 12562468 (shared with C5)
GTO (Holden) Dipstick Tube: 12561544

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

some fuel system info

LS1 Swap Fuel System

There are several ways to go about doing this. The most common seems to be using and external pump connected from a sumped fuel tank to a corvette filter/regulator. This allows a return back to the tank and a single fuel supply line ran to the front of the car.

1999+ Corvette Filter/Regulator
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PRODUCTS/ls...ilterstock.jpg
buy it from advanced auto for $50

Scooter70
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=16459
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/fuel.html



for stock like push on connectors look here
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&x=42&y=8

http://www.russellperformance.com/au...uel-3-27.shtml


BY: ls1_chevelle

On the truck intakes(might be specific years) there is both the feed and return line going to the fuel rail(duh). Theres no need for a fuel pressure regulator because its already built in to the fuel rail itself.

This leaves you with many fueling choices. You can...
A) Run an external pump to feed the feed line and a return line that goes to the tank.
B) Run an Intank pump conversion such as the Tanks Inc. setup. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...=prod/prd84.htm and here it is being installed http://www.thedetailzone.com/Tanks%...p%20Install.htm
C) Run a newer generation plastic fuel tank. the 96 Impala SS fuel tank is supposed to be a bolt in to A-Body cars (69-72) and with slights mods can go into a Camaro. Only problem is that the tank is quite deep.
D) Go with an aftermarket tank such as Rock Valley http://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/ndex.htm

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

this is a popular subject. there are several types on the market but making your own is easy if you have some basic tools.

street and performance version

BRP mounts

make your own from these templates.

S&P style


BRP style


mount search

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

i will have my pan welded locally instead of shipping it off. The question is what material sould i use for the notch?

posted by 'JustDreamin'

According to Will Handzel's book, the Oil Pan is cast from 356-T6 aluminum (listed in a chart on page 26).

Out of curiosity, I looked up 356-T6 in one of my engineering texts, and that alloy has a fairly high silicon content (~7 %) and 0.4 % Magnesium. In T6 heat treated condition, it should have about 38 kpsi tensile strength.

Knowing that info should help select an alloy to use for parts and pieces.

My texts show there isn't a "perfect" match in a wrought alloy (stuff you'd find in barstock form) but 6061 seems to be the closest.



Moroso now makes a pan and pickup tube for 1st gen LS1 swaps. I ordered one from Jegs.

Part # 710-20140 oil pan ($220)
Part # 710-24050 pickup tube ($85)

hardwired

on any harness mod its the same basics. constant battery voltage to computer, 12 volt switched to computer and harness sensors, and last grounds. A fuel pump relay can be made up and triggered by computer same for fans. if no emm., gauges, or trans take it out. flash out vats and codes not being used and your done

Red Heartbeat

iTrader: (9)

If you try to make the S&P style mounts, save yourself a headache and tap the two holes that are marked to be countersunk from the backside, the top left corner and the third one over, that is if you have the right size drill and tap. A stud or short bolt works so much easier in that location if you are making your plates from steel or stainless. This will also aid to make the mounting plates universal fit from side to side.

Oscar Will

You people with old car hybrids and straight frame rails can use the Corvette cast aluminum motor mount brackets with the stock oil-filled mount cushions. The cost is not ridiculous and the set-up works very well.

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

A cheap source of grade 10.9 bolts for our engines(LSx series and I'm sure maybe LT1s) is your local John Deere dealer... Cheap as heck compared to other places, especially GM!

-Matt

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

99+ Chevy K/C truck oil pan: GM part #12560393 has been replaced by GM part #12579273! Just a note for others.

(Hope someone else finds this usefull....I couldn't find this info anywhere on the web).

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I found a very useful adapter kit with 5 different fittings that will connect a 1/8 x27 NPT sender to M10 x 1, M12 x 1.5, M14 x 1.5 and M16 x 1.5 and 1/8" x 28 BSP. This will enable you to put a temp sender in the passenger side head without drilling or tapping. Also some aftermarket gauge manufacturers are stocking 12 mm senders now. Check with your gauge company.

Edit: I found that one of these adapters will also work with the oil sending hole at the back of the block behind the intake manifold. Just use the adapter, then a 1/8 npt nipple and a 90 degree fitting or what ever angle you need.

It is made by EQUUS, part number is #6848. Cost was less than $8 plus tax. I got it from my local Auto Parts. Much less expensive than the $16.50 for one fitting from one of the conversion specialists.

Pat

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

One thing that I found out recently...

LSX = 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0 etc....

LSX with 4l80e requires flywheel spacer
LSX with 4l60e requires no flywheel spacer.

-Matt

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I cleaned this post up a bit and the wiring info is now in the attachments. The truck wiring is from my 2001 4x4 tahoe 5.3L, but be aware that the truck wiring seems inconsistent. I saw alldata diagrams for a 2001 4x4 yukon 5.3L and a few of the wires were different, even in the PCM connections


Heres a link to directions to build a VATS bypass box, remember this won`t work for truck,vette or GTO computers, they use a serial data signal which cannot be replicated. In these cars the VATS must be deleted in the computer.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/70lt1/vats.shtml
VATS bypass thread
Another VATS bypass design

Hooking up A/C controls

Dual speed fan connections

More fan connection info/diagram

Alternator hookup without using the PCM

Truck wiring with a LSx Truck fusebox

Differences between the truck and f-body wiring harnesses

98 AND 99+ retrofit wiring diagrams

Link to GTO pinouts

4L60E VS 4L80E wiring differences

A wiring guide courtesy of Rodder
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/rodders...1t56wiring.doc

Using a 200R4 or 700R4 transmission and don`t know how to hook up the TV cable? Click here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/791429-tv-cable-throttle-cable-bracket.html

Power Steering pump output: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...truck-etc.html

Molded Heater hoses! https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ter-hoses.html

seon

Anyone needing a "straight-up" thermostat housing can buy it from CSR part #911LS1 for $34.77.
I spoke to the CSR Tech Dept that said that they made there housing "in house" using an OEM LS1 housing as a sample. I then spoke to a GM Parts Dept who compared the OEM part numbers for an LS1 and Vortec 5.3 which were both the same.

blazerman

hey g-body are these connectors the same for the 00 pickup with 5.3

TT_Vert

iTrader: (12)

what does this mean?
Where is this IGN 1 relay located?
and what is this?
Dave

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Duuuude....go back and read the first sentence of the first post of this thread...

10 lashes with a PCM harness! With the connectors attached!

TT_Vert

iTrader: (12)

doh my apologies, please delete, I will put up another post.

Dave

Dipstick

I have read at several sites that the head gaskets for an LS1 are GM part number 12558809 for the driver's side and 12558810 for the passenger's side. This is incorrect. I just replaced a lifter and the gasket that came off of the passenger's side was clearly stamped 12558809, and that is what the dealer verified and what I replaced it with. Can anybody change this in the FAQs?

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Here's an inexpensive way to connect the factory quick disconnect fittings to a flared hard fuel line. At my good auto parts store, the one where the first question is not what year, make and model, I bought quick connect fuel line to go into the output side of the Corvette regulator/filter. The piece I got was 12 inches long, a little long, but it worked out well. The piece is made by Dorman, it is called a double bead fuel line, it is 3/8 x 12 inches and the part number is 800-155. To be able to connect it to my hard fuel line going to the front of the car, I needed a flared end. So I had them cut it in half put a flare collar on each side and put a double flare on the cut ends. I ended up with two pieces, one for the fuel tank end and one for the motor end. Just use flared unions to connect them. Total cost for everthing, including them flaring the tubes for me($2 each), was less than $20. One single piece like I made is $28 in the S&P catalog! I've attached a couple pictures showing the two completed fittings and my regulator installed, waiting for me to finish the hard lines. I am running high pressure rubber lines from the intank pump to the regulator. I will be moving the exhaust pipe you see in the picture. Hope this helps someone else.

Pat