I just had a fuddle 3,800 stall 1.7str put in and i had the midwest converter removed(nothing wrong with the midwest). I just wanted a higher stall and a lower str. I can say the midwest is much more streetable than the one i have now. I was able to drop .4 in the 1/4 with lots of wheelspin(2.1 60'times were my best) so the converter has more in it with better tires and such. Im selling it for 300 shipped... let me know

 

How many miles on the converter? I may be interested...

 

im going to have to take a best guess. Right now i had the car for just over 5 years and i have 49,000 miles on the car. I got the converter 2 years ago so i would say it has about 20,000 on it or less. I will say that this converter drives almost like stock 1,500 rpm and it moves somewhat decent, 2,000 rpm and you can pull away from traffic. The new fuddle converter i have i need atleast 2,200 rpm to move somewhat decent and about 3,000 rpm to start pulling away from traffic. Somewhat miss the midwest drivability.

 

Do you know if Midwest offers a one-time free refreshing of the converter like Vigilante? If so, have you done that?

 

Midwest DID offer a free restall - but as far as I've heard - they went out of business. Hence the reason I have a Midwest 3200 2.0str verter holding down a shelf in my garage.

 

yea they did have a free restall, not sure if they are out of business like 1quikws6 said. I was going to have it restalled but the downtime for it wouldnt be good for me since i need my car almost every day so i just ordered one..

 

I dont know much GM
would this stall work in a chevy 1500 with a 6.0?

 

TTT for the midwest converter...

i've had mine in for about 15,000 miles...zero problems, works awesome, very very streetable.

 

thanx for the bump, i havent had any problems with the midwest either, makes me want to switch back to it since im having problems with my new one

 

From your sig, I would say IMO that you purchased a verter with too high of a stall rating. This is why you are seeing the driveability problems when on the street. This is right from Fuddle site:

'Desired performance: If you are building a car that will see a considerable amount of time at the track, the converter should be matched as closely to the above criteria as possible. However, if the car is used as a daily driver and you just want some extra punch from the converter, consider a smaller stall with a slightly higher STR to keep the car feeling more like stock.'

Did you talk with John prior to buying to get his advice on stall/str based on your car specs and type of driving?

Check my rwhp/rwtq numbers from my sig - I'm only running a 3600 stall with this car and it feels perfect. In reality, best way to choose a verter is to have some dyno logs to see @ what rpm your torque starts to rise & pick verter stall based on that. Lot of people get all excited and choose a stall that is way too high for their combo thinking that bigger is better - in this case (as with carb size selection) that is not true.

Your first stall selection was more right on. BTW, if Midwest is OOB as I was told - Fuddle is running a special on restalls for ANY type of verter - check out his site under 'specials'

 

1quikws6, i did talk to john and i had the converter built to my specks, the stall speed is not the problem. Im having issues with it that i do not wish to talk about on the board untill i get to figure out the whole deal of whats going on. Talking to john about it now and it seems to be computer related reguarding pwm and tcc problem. As far as the midwest converter goes that converter was right on for what i wanted to do with the car at that time. I changed my plans for the car(a little more money now to burn ) so im getting all the cheaper stuff out of the way the the converter,suspension and stuff before i go and mod the motor...