Vortec5300

I pulled the side bolt that holds the C-clip block in the carrier but, when I try to pull out the c-clip block, its hitting the ring gear.. WHats the trick? I tried pushing the axles in and out looking for some more play but not enough. Its only hitting the ring gear by about .020 or so but its enough to stop it.

Also, after the c-clip block comes out, I should just pull out the c-clips and the axles should pull right out right? Trying to get this thing done tonight so thanks for any quick responses in advance!

klw1313

iTrader: (3)

we turned mine up and slammed it on the driveway, not too hard but it worked like a charm. i was having the same problem for about 30 minutes and said screw this, picked it up banged it once and out it came.

BeemerZ28

iTrader: (5)

DO you have traction control because if you do. You need to remove the sensor(it is like a magnet type thing) so that you can push the axle in, This should make the c-clip easy to remove.

Vortec5300

No traction control... Its not the c-clip I am trying to get out yet, its the big block that holds the axles/c-clips in place. I pulled the 5/16" screw out but the block it hitting the ring gear on its way out. I am going out to take a pic now.

Vortec5300

Can you see where the block is hitting the ring gear? IT WILL NOT COME OUT!

WTF?

Vortec5300

Any ideas how I can get a tad more play? If I pull the left axle, it frees it up a little but not enough. I gotta get this thing back together by tomorrow..

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

That is really odd... I have never seen a car with this problem that doesn't either have the teeth on the ring gear ground down enough to clear, or has the slp two peice block. The thing is... is that that block will come out without grinding on the ring gear. It simple has too. It is impossible for that rear to have been assembled in any other way than the reverse of the way your taking it apart. I'm not sure what has changed in your case, maybe the housing or carrier has deflected, causing this. It looks like you may have to grind a little off the ring gear. It won't take much and it won't hurt it any. Just do it a little at a time and don't get it real hot in that one spot.

Vortec5300

It does have 4.10s in it, they are not richmonds, Motives. I believe they are Strange Pro gears. G-Force did the install. I am wondering if they just hammered the block in when they reinstalled it? I thought about trying to grind on the block a little.

Can you safely grind on the tooth on the ring gear? won't it mess up the pinion? I need to get this thing going ASAP

Vortec5300

Here is another pic of the paddle block, here I am pulling it to the right trying to get it to clear.

Maybe if I took a little off that tooth it will come out??

keliente

iTrader: (22)

What kind of car is it? I am on dial up so the pics are not loading.

It sounds like you have aftermarket gears. The problem is the ring gear is taller, so the paddle can no longer slide out like it is supposed to. A lot of people have this problem when they install aftermarket gears. They either cut down the edge of the paddle to make it fit, buy SLP's paddle kit, or cut down a few teeth on the ring gear (I do not recommend that).

I don't know what I would do if I was you (other than not count on it being done tonight). I'd probably try and cut down the paddle someway so that it would slide out, and then get that aftermarket paddle kit...I wonder how they got it in there in the first place?

And yes...once you remove the paddle, the c-clips will come out and the axles will slip out of the sides.

Vortec5300

Its a 99 TA, no TCS. Ya I am thinking that they just hammered the block in when they did the gear install. Guess I am gonna try to grind on the block some early in the morning unless someone else has any other ideas by then.

I am just trying to get the axles out so I can install longer studs..gotta go through this BS to do it.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

..are you pulling the axles so the longer studs can go in??? talked to you the other day about spacers and studs....can't you grab the clip??.......just looked again-something looks wrong there...too tight I think --you are right--maybe it was forced in..??

Vortec5300

NHRA, ya I am putting in ARP studs and 7/16" wheel spacers. I got the front end done and it looks awesome.. Trying to get the axles out to do the rear. I gotta get the block out before I can get the c-clips out. I believe its due to the aftermarket 4.10 gear, I think they just hammered the phuckin block in there. I am about to try to grind on it some. I will let you know how it works

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

I had some issues with mine one time. I had a buddy turn the wheel/axel back and forth (hard) while I pulled the clip. It moved the spider gears a little and gave a little play. Was still tight.....

Good luck. And hold off on using the hammer as long as you can.

Vortec5300

THANKS FELLAS!

I got it out.. I had to take a die grinder to the block some and two teeth on the ring gear but its out. I kinda just back cut the inner most point on the teeth. The pinion teeth will not actually even make contact with the corner I grinded off. Now it slides in and out fairly easy. The shop definetly had to hammer the block in there because even after I got the block out, I clearanced the entire edge of the block and I still had to lightly tap it to get it in. They must have pounded it in there.


ANYWAY I got the studs in, axles back in and I gotta install the lube, brakes and wheels and I am done with this *****.. All this work for wheel spacers..LOL