LS1 Power Plant

iTrader: (7)

Got a SES light last night and the error was P1416 (Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 2) according to Auto Tap. In Auto Tap it had an H in front of it on the first 2 errors, but on the third there was a P in front. I assume this error is in reference to the AIR tubes on the headers? I did the AIR restrictor mod, so why am I seeing this error?

Thanks in advance.

Stu

Its usually just a bad valve. I think they are around 13 bucks from Advance Auto.

BTW---Bank 2 means Passenger side. In case you didnt know.

Later, Stu

LS1 Power Plant

iTrader: (7)

Thank you sir! So I assume this is the AIR check valve?

Stu

Yup.

dissonance

Could be your o2 sensor on that bank. The o2 sensor tells the pcm that the secondary air injection is working

dissonance

Yeah, bring up both bank1s1, bank2s1 with the car at idle and warmed up. A least 3 min's from start and the engine temp should be above 150 degrease. It would work best if it was at 200. The o2’s should rang from .8-.9 to .1-.2. They should change back and forth quickly. If you have one that only ranges from .6 to .4 then I would say that could be a problem. If you get one that stays around a set mv range then it bad for sure. .4mv is a reference the pcm uses. If you where to unplug the o2 from bank1s1 and start the car the computer should show .4mv for that bank. You could have a heater going bad on that bank. With the car cold “I mean setting all night” move the key in the start position but do not start the car. you want to watch the o2, after 10 or so sec’s the range should start to change. Moving in .05mv every few sec’s until it gets to .1mv or less. That means the o2 sensor has heated up. This should not take anymore then 3 min’s. more like 2 or less.

i have had a lot of problems with my o2 sensors.

98blackSS

It's your passenger side check valve. If it were an O2, you'd be getting other codes. This is a pretty common fail on our cars, moreso if you have headers... P1415 is bank 1 (drivers side check valve). P0410 would be a combination of the two (air pump problem).

dissonance

It is mostly a check valve but I have had a false check valve code because of an o2 sensor, you said you did the restrictor mod, how big did you drill the holes?

I don’t want to seem like I’m blaming the o2 just an avenue to check out. If he did a header install he might have an exhaust leak on that side. The first sign might be an air code. The air code is very easy to trip. I got a little water in the wire harness for my o2 sensor and the 1st code was an air injection code, not an o2 sensor. Funny really because it was a dead give away. The o2 sensor was locked in at 1mv

<small>[ September 03, 2002, 05:12 PM: Message edited by: dissonance ]</small>

98blackSS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by dissonance:
<strong>It is mostly a check valve but I have had a false check valve code because of an o2 sensor, you said you did the restrictor mod, how big did you drill the holes?

I don’t want to seem like I’m blaming the o2 just an avenue to check out. If he did a header install he might have an exhaust leak on that side. The first sign might be an air code. The air code is very easy to trip. I got a little water in the wire harness for my o2 sensor and the 1st code was an air injection code, not an o2 sensor. Funny really because it was a dead give away. The o2 sensor was locked in at 1mv</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ah, but you would have had other codes as well, correct? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> A dead or locked O2 should throw a P1153 (bank2) or P1133 (bank1) for "insufficient switching".

dissonance

True, but if the o2 switchs 60 times in about one minute then it will not trip that code. I have two brand new o2 in my car; I just put them in this weekend. I would say they switch 150+ times in one minute. I know with autotap it is hard to tell but I have autometer o2 gage. Also the air pump is tested at start up and other time in the driving cycle. So if the o2 was not responding fast enough the computer would think the extra injected air was not there. If the o2 was switching more the 60 times a min then you would never see an insufficient switching.

Again I not staying this is his problem, it is just something he should look at. I have had many problems with o2 and when the pcm says it’s the air check valve it might be linked to something else. If it was me I would go buy two new check valves and put them in. ether way it would not hurt to have new ones.

When I was tripping the air code my o2 would stick at .9 or so then come back down. So the o2 never responded to the computer that the extra air had entered the exhaust manifolds. His heater in that o2 might be a little slow.

LS1 Power Plant

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by dissonance:
<strong>Could be your o2 sensor on that bank. The o2 sensor tells the pcm that the secondary air injection is working</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If it was my o2 sensor I would be able to tell if it were working with Auto Tap, correct?

LS1 Power Plant

iTrader: (7)

Wow, thanks for all the info guys. As far as the AIR restrictor mod, I used the kit from Pace. Could it be that the hole is too small or one of the gaskets isn't sealing up correctly? I am getting a sound like a plastic bag flapping in the wind since I've had the headers. I was waiting on the new AIR gaskets to see if that solved it. I'll run ATAP tomorrow morning to make sure it isn't the o2 sensor. I should have a new AIR check valve in the next day or so.

98blackSS

The fluttering you're hearing is the check valve internals. Over time that fluttering burns up the valve and you get the P1415/1416. The restricter plates are supposed to suppress that.

dissonance

How long have you had your headers installed? You said you have what sounds like a bag in the wind? Does it change when you increase the idle? Say to 1000 or 1,500 rpm?

Like blackSS said go ahead and replace your check valves. It will not hurt to replace both either. Headers are known to burn the valve up,

I know we have been over and over this but check for an exhaust leak. Who did your header installed? Headers are also known for not sealing up.

If you haven’t had the headers on for a very long time you might not see an o2 sensor code for awhile. It was months before I had an o2 sensor code. But I did show a secondary air code. I’m only tell you this because, your trobbles sounds a lot like what I dealt with

LS1 Power Plant

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by dissonance:
<strong>How long have you had your headers installed? You said you have what sounds like a bag in the wind? Does it change when you increase the idle? Say to 1000 or 1,500 rpm?

Like blackSS said go ahead and replace your check valves. It will not hurt to replace both either. Headers are known to burn the valve up,

I know we have been over and over this but check for an exhaust leak. Who did your header installed? Headers are also known for not sealing up.

If you haven’t had the headers on for a very long time you might not see an o2 sensor code for awhile. It was months before I had an o2 sensor code. But I did show a secondary air code. I’m only tell you this because, your trobbles sounds a lot like what I dealt with</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would say that I've had them on for a month, tops month and a half. I had them installed by someone (don't want to post it in public, but if you want to know shoot me over a email. I've had a few problems with him). The sound does slightly increase, and I can hear it very good at around 60 - 70 mph. I am going to replace both AIR valves and use new gaskets. Hopefully I'll have everything this weekend. Other then looking for black areas how can I see a exhaust leak? When you say "o2 sensor code" what do you mean? I have LS1 Edit and removed the codes for the back ones.

Thanks again

dissonance

If you do have a leak it might give you a little trouble finding it. The 1st thing I would do is put the car on ramps/ or on a lift would be every easy. While the car is running move your hands around where the header meets the y-pipe. If you feel hot air hitting your hands you might have leak around that area. If the exhaust is hot you will feel what seems like air moving but it’s just the heated air rising.

I had a really hard time finding mine, I knew I had a leak, I took the car to a small shop to get it on a lift and the guy just put both of his hands over the exhaust pipe and comply sealed the exhaust off. Before I could say what you are doing… I could hear a whistling sound from the drivers side… comes to find out my gasket was burned out. I don’t think this will hurt your car if you did it a few times. It might die if you hold it for 40 sec’s or so. Maybe some of the other guys could tell if it would hurt anything

your right for removing your rear o2’s/code. Come to think of it if you have ls1edit why don’t you just remove the air pump and codes from the pcm… then you could drop a few lbs from the front of the car. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> If you have emission testing you might not want to but headers with out cats is not going to pass anyways

oh, if you did have a leak and could hear it at 60/70mph then it should be a huge leak... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

<small>[ September 04, 2002, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: dissonance ]</small>